Coolant system bleeding - Civinfo
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 18th April 2016, 08:06 Thread Starter
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Coolant system bleeding

Hi guys. Since I took the HKS RSX off the car and put it back to standard, I've noticed that if I start the car up from cold, and leave it running (with the heater on, heat set to high, on speed 3) and leave it for around 20 mins, the heater is still blowing cold air. The heat only comes through if I rev it to around 2500rpm or start driving it. If sitting stationary for a bit after driving it, the heat goes cold again. The temp gauge is reading normal temp, no over heating issues or anything like that.

Is there a way to bleed the coolant system or are they self bleeding. pretty sure it's got an air lock somewhere which is causing this. I know for the D series and B series Honda engines, to bleed the coolant system you start the engine (from cold) with the radiator cap off, then squeeze the bottom radiator hoses then release. Keep doing this till no more air bubles appear at the radiator filler neck. You have to make sure the engine doesn't get up to temp though, has to be cold.

Is it the same for the K series? Was gonna try it but can't get my hand anywhere near the bottom hose. I've noticed when she's up to full temp, there doesn't seem to be any water in the top hose?

It did loose a bit of coolant when removing the induction kit, but I topped it up so the coolant is up to where it should be in the radiator.

Any help/info appreciated.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 18th April 2016, 08:24
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Originally Posted by Dave-civic View Post
Hi guys. Since I took the HKS RSX off the car and put it back to standard, I've noticed that if I start the car up from cold, and leave it running (with the heater on, heat set to high, on speed 3) and leave it for around 20 mins, the heater is still blowing cold air. The heat only comes through if I rev it to around 2500rpm or start driving it. If sitting stationary for a bit after driving it, the heat goes cold again. The temp gauge is reading normal temp, no over heating issues or anything like that.

Is there a way to bleed the coolant system or are they self bleeding. pretty sure it's got an air lock somewhere which is causing this. I know for the D series and B series Honda engines, to bleed the coolant system you start the engine (from cold) with the radiator cap off, then squeeze the bottom radiator hoses then release. Keep doing this till no more air bubles appear at the radiator filler neck. You have to make sure the engine doesn't get up to temp though, has to be cold.

Is it the same for the K series? Was gonna try it but can't get my hand anywhere near the bottom hose. I've noticed when she's up to full temp, there doesn't seem to be any water in the top hose?

It did loose a bit of coolant when removing the induction kit, but I topped it up so the coolant is up to where it should be in the radiator.

Any help/info appreciated.
Never heard of bleeding a b or d series like the way you described

The way i always did it was:
rad cap off
heaters set to hot
start car
let it run up to temperature occasionally giving the bottom hose a squeeze
cooling fan Needs to cut in two times
stop engine
top up rad if required.

Never had a issue and i did this on bone stock b's and d's plus highly tuned Turbo and N/A engines

Last edited by Jd1986; 18th April 2016 at 08:27.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 18th April 2016, 08:29 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jd1986 View Post
Never heard of bleeding a b or d series like the way you described

The way i always did it was rad cap off from cold heaters set to hot start car and let it run up occasionally giving the bottom hose a squeeze do this until the fan cuts in two times, stop engine then top up rad if required.
LOL I forgot to add the bit about having the heater fans on and set to hot. Just wondering if there's a bleed screw or something on the FN2. Can't get my hand near the bottom hose, although just read in a thread that you start car and turn aircon on to hot, leave running with rad cap off and leave running till fan kicks in? Might give that a try.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 24th October 2016, 15:51
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Originally Posted by Dave-civic View Post
LOL I forgot to add the bit about having the heater fans on and set to hot. Just wondering if there's a bleed screw or something on the FN2. Can't get my hand near the bottom hose, although just read in a thread that you start car and turn aircon on to hot, leave running with rad cap off and leave running till fan kicks in? Might give that a try.

Hi, did you have any luck with this as I seem to have the same problem

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 26th October 2016, 13:24
 
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I changed my coolant recently and basically just left the cap off with a funnel in top with a bit of coolant in it.

Turned heaters to max on hot and just squeezed the hose every now and then with a few pumps.
Also revved the car up a bit. Basically kept doing this until no bubbles were showing anymore and the coolant had left the funnel.

It took longer than I thought ( about 30 mins ) and I found that to get the air out I had to squeeze the pipes. It wasn't escaping without that.
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