Standard by Appearance Ė A Strange One :-/ - Civinfo
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 14:25 Thread Starter
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Standard by Appearance Ė A Strange One :-/

Strange way of thinking & I know there will be those who will think “what the f7*k! But;
With no purpose of trying to deceive anyone, I want to get more performance (not just power) out of my 2007 FN2 but want to keep the drive train, inlet and exhaust etc looking as standard and without more noise. So, have been looking at ways of gaining performance (more BHP, quicker engine response, grip etc) so as if you were to pop the bonnet you would think the car is OEM. I understand by fitting a CAI and catback exhaust I will make good gains but not really wanting to go that route.

So far on the list of possibilities is;

Hondata Air Box with panel filter (which one though?)
Hondata Flashpro + custom map
Oil Pump Balancer Shaft Delete Kit
LSD
Remus responder
Tegiwa short shifter

Any other thoughts? On topic please and not to do with my mentality �� lol
I’m a firm believer that all the little gains all add up at the end of the day so please mention anything and everything.

Just to add, I'm City and Guild trained on maintenance and repair so quite competent to do most of the labour work myself to reduce the costs.
Thanks in advance, I’ll take no offence to any “you’re a nutter” comments.

Cheers
Dave

Last edited by Bones126; 7th February 2018 at 15:18. Reason: Just to add, I'm City and Guild trained on maintenance and repair so quite competent to do most of the labour work myself to
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 15:04
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Essentialy any number of FD2 parts such as the Throttle body, oil pump, balancer shaft delete different manifold, cams, free flowing exhaust with finishing tips will all add drivability and some power gains.

Though by the time youve spent the money on all of this you may as well have gone forced induction.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 15:16 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lightningslow View Post
Essentialy any number of FD2 parts such as the Throttle body, oil pump, balancer shaft delete different manifold, cams, free flowing exhaust with finishing tips will all add drivability and some power gains.

Though by the time you've spent the money on all of this you may as well have gone forced induction.
Thanks for the reply, the forced induction is my other option I'm toying with but a bit away from opening the bonnet and the car looking OEM lol. but agree the price is comparable.
Just to add, I'm City and Guild trained on maintenance and repair so quite competent to do most of the labour work myself to reduce the costs.

Cheers

Last edited by Bones126; 7th February 2018 at 15:18.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 16:39
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A supercharger looks OEM to me, it doesnt not go with the engine interior with the bonnet open. (taken from google image search)

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 16:43
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Just stick a inlet mani cover on that, whack up the stereo and you're good to go
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 19:00 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lightningslow View Post
A supercharger looks OEM to me, it doesnt not go with the engine interior with the bonnet open. (taken from google image search)
Thanks, thatís not helping lol, trying to resist a second devorce
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 19:30
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Originally Posted by Bones126 View Post
Thanks, thatís not helping lol, trying to resist a second devorce
While some may flame me for this I am of course all for making your vehicle your own but of what you want is available cheaper in stock form elsewhere sell the fn2 and buy that.

Why donít you let us know what it is you want from your car?
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 19:50 Thread Starter
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While some may flame me for this I am of course all for making your vehicle your own but of what you want is available cheaper in stock form elsewhere sell the fn2 and buy that.

Why donít you let us know what it is you want from your car?
Love the FN2, so not interested in anything else but understand where youíre coming from with other cars. Only other is a FK TR but donít have the money for one.
As I canít leave things alone and would like something different to OEM (make my own), I would like to make mine have improved performance over standard but donít want the extra noise a CAI and catback creates. Hence looking at SC option but not sure I want or need that much extra power or the 125% insurance increase. An extra 10 - 20 BHP would be nice to make it/a difference with quicker pick up/response.

Thanks for your input, appreciated.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 20:08
250bhp.... finally :)
 
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4-2-1 header, RRC inlet & cover, FD2 TB & Oil pump will give you plenty more poke whilst looking OEM from the bonnet. You won't make as high peak with OEM airbox and exhaust but will free the engine up.

LSD and FRS / coilovers help immensely with grip.

Unless you want noise no power mods will make a huge difference without a 4-2-1 header so spend it on brakes, handling and LSD IMHO
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 20:15
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Lighter flywheel can make the engine more responsive.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 20:17
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A remap is visually unnoticeable.
I know where you are coming from with this, I am improving mine without trying to take away the oem look. I have started going down the handling route first, stiffer rarb, front tower brace, polybushes, still to do camber and frsu (got parts ages ago) and semi slick tyres. Mild power mods for now, an itg maxogen induction kit that gives a slightly deeper tone change and an M2 60mm b pipe will replace the straw like oem b pipe. Remap will be a long way off for me.
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Last edited by flashy; 7th February 2018 at 20:23.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 20:19 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musegroove View Post
4-2-1 header, RRC inlet & cover, FD2 TB & Oil pump will give you plenty more poke whilst looking OEM from the bonnet. You won't make as high peak with OEM airbox and exhaust but will free the engine up.

LSD and FRS / coilovers help immensely with grip.

Unless you want noise no power mods will make a huge difference without a 4-2-1 header so spend it on brakes, handling and LSD IMHO
Cheers, Leaving out the handling/grip mods. Would I be correct in thinking the power mods you first mention would come close to the same cost as a self install charger kit?
I suppose as I use this as a daily, do long distance drives and fun car Iím not wanting noise that will do my head in on a long drives and the commute.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 20:24 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_G View Post
Lighter flywheel can make the engine more responsive.
Yeah, was looking at those earlier then came across the oil pump balancer shaft delete mod which seems to give better gains of around 5-10 BHP as quoted by TDI North.
Cheers for your input mate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flashy View Post
A remap is visually unnoticeable
Yep, I think that’s the first this I’ll do to start with. Custom map with VT point lowered and higher red line. Read if I do the oil pump I may also need an extra 500 rpm at idle to smooth tickerover out.
When I raced bikes I had a high tick over of 3000 rpm as it helped with starts and also meant the revs didn’t die to harshly going into bends and changing down.

Cheers.

Last edited by Bones126; 7th February 2018 at 20:32. Reason: Last para
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 20:58
250bhp.... finally :)
 
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Tickover is 900-950rpm usually.

Hondata - £350 + £350 map
RRC Inlet - £300-350
Cover - £50
FD2 TB - £150-175
4-2-1 - £200 Japspeed , £35 gaskets
All easily DIY if you can fit a charger.

Oil pump supplied and fitted circa £900-1k
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 21:06 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by musegroove View Post
Tickover is 900-950rpm usually.

Hondata - £350 + £350 map
RRC Inlet - £300-350
Cover - £50
FD2 TB - £150-175
4-2-1 - £200 Japspeed , £35 gaskets
All easily DIY if you can fit a charger.

Oil pump supplied and fitted circa £900-1k
Nice one, thanks.. so heading in the direction of diy charger cost but charger obv offers a lot more power. Suppose something I need to enquire about is mod insurance and see what the difference is. If itís almost the same then a charger makes sense. Lol just created a thread to talk myself into fitting a charger
Cheers
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 21:17 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by musegroove View Post
4-2-1 - £200 Japspeed , £35 gaskets
I understand getting air in faster and gases out faster gives BHP gains, but am I right in thinking this would fail an MOT as there is no Cat. In which case could I get away with just a sports cat on standard manifold to help unrestricted the flow.

Appreciate everyoneís help, cheers.
Dave
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 21:41
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Yes it should technically fail an MOT and it's the manifold itself not the cat. The cast manifold is an absolute joke in terms of quality and design. Definetly for emissions and packaging over performance.
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 22:01
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Originally Posted by Bones126 View Post
I understand getting air in faster and gases out faster gives BHP gains, but am I right in thinking this would fail an MOT as there is no Cat. In which case could I get away with just a sports cat on standard manifold to help unrestricted the flow.

Appreciate everyone’s help, cheers.
Dave
Adding a sports cat is only possible further along, ie in place of the oem silencer under the drivers seat, further back is possible but can't be sure of passing mot, unless super hot.

There would likely be minor volume increase as well.

Ps. Cat back exhaust offers very minor gains at lower power levels (unless you are adding cams or charging etc). If you don't like the sound you can get resonated versions that just sound nicer than oem without much increase in volume.
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Last edited by Leejay-B; 7th February 2018 at 22:10.
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 22:08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones126 View Post
Nice one, thanks.. so heading in the direction of diy charger cost but charger obv offers a lot more power. Suppose something I need to enquire about is mod insurance and see what the difference is. If itís almost the same then a charger makes sense. Lol just created a thread to talk myself into fitting a charger
Cheers
Don't forget with the charger you still need a mapping solution and custom map so another £700-£800. And maybe brakes and handling mods. I have also heard the standard exhaust manifold and cat back won't last long if charged.

You could also get RBC instead of RRC inlet manifold which is a lot cheaper in tegiwa website. Alternatively the standard fn2 inlet manifold is supposed to be very good and with minor mods I was advised that an RBC or RRC could lose mid range and maybe gain 5 bhp from 7500 rpm plus only. An expensive risk.

An exhaust manifold plus hondata airbox mod would get my vote for your requirements. Don't forget a better cold air feed to go to the modded airbox. You could use tegiwa airbox which is a mugen copy also, but this is expensive for minor improvements over hondata box and air feed.

Also if you are adding LSD why not consider 5.46 final drive for a little more acceleration, I have this and am hoping to remap possibly with exhaust manifold change this year.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 7th February 2018, 22:16
 
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Taken from piston heads hereís your answer

Over a conventional FN2 Civic Type R, the Mugen received new cams, pistons, intake and exhaust tweaks plus an ECU remap. Power is 240hp at 8,300rpm. Torque? Who needs torque when you have revs? OK, it's 157lb ft. At 6,250rpm..
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