Clutch Question - Civinfo
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 26th February 2019, 11:24 Thread Starter
 
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Clutch Question

So, my car is nearing the 86k miles mark and as far as I can tell, still on the original clutch. Is there a general consensus on clutch life (I realise that there are a lot of variables in that question!) or the route to take in terms of replacements ? I'd expect to replace the plate, bearing and cover but is there anything else to replace with it already apart once it does go ? The bite point on mine is right at the base of the pedal - lift it 2 cm from the floor and it begins to engage so suspect its not long for this world!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 26th February 2019, 22:10
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Changed mine on 92k, bite close to the floor and notchy high rpm gear changes. You want to get the oem Honda 3 piece clutch kit and use mtf-3 Honda transmission fluid (2 litres will be enough as it holds about 1.7 litres)
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 27th February 2019, 12:18
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Be prepared to have to replace the flywheel.

As mentioned above, bite point on the floor and rubbish high rev gear changes are telltale signs a new clutch is needed.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11th March 2019, 09:13 Thread Starter
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Gear changes are not yet notchy, but bite is at the floor. I can feel some costs coming my way!!


Cheers for confirming what I think I knew but was hoping to be wrong about.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11th March 2019, 10:49
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s3 akr View Post
Gear changes are not yet notchy, but bite is at the floor. I can feel some costs coming my way!!


Cheers for confirming what I think I knew but was hoping to be wrong about.
You can get genuine OEM clutches off ebay for about £120, and MTF-3 for about £10 a litre (makes sense to change this whilst you're on).

Budget about £300 all in, much more and you're being taken for a ride. It's well worth the money though, you dont realise how worn they are until you replace it.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11th March 2019, 21:39
 
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Normal driving will usually had to replace the clutch at 70-110k
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 16th March 2019, 12:09
 
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A couple of clutch/flywheel queries.

A worn clutch leads to a high biting point, correct? So the biting point being near the floor is down to either worn clutch springs or thrust bearing, which causes the clutch to not separate correctly when the pedal is depressed, leading to notchy gearshifts with an audible metallic 'clunk' sometimes when cold. Have I got that that right?

In all the cars I've owned, I've never had to replace a clutch, so the high biting point thing is the only bit of it that I'm sure of. The low biting point is all new to me.

The only time I ever had to replace a clutch, was when my '91 Gixxer 1100 utterly destroyed itself on the dyno. 4th gear, 7000rpm, 99.6whp, and the beautiful curve that was forming just tanked as it revved to 10.5k!!

Anyway, I digress, Flywheels!

How much does the standard FN2 flywheel weigh. I'm going to change the flywheel with the clutch, as sending mine off to be skimmed is most probably a false economy. Seeing as the K20 has virtually no torque anyway, I'm going to work to the strengths of the engine and help it rev more easily. I'm looking a either a 5kg or 5.2kg flywheel to pair up with a clutch from the same manufacturer.

https://h-tune.co.uk/competition-clu...onda-k-series/

https://h-tune.co.uk/competition-clu...nda-k20a-k20z/

Good idea?

Last edited by Private Custard; 16th March 2019 at 14:43.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 16th March 2019, 16:56
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Low clutch pedal biting point would suggest the clutch pedal travel just needs adjusted(someone maybe adjusted it in to stop the pedal squeek) or that the slave just needs bleeding. As for when it needs replaced, when it stops working. Ive been driving for 31 years, had eleven cars in that time, two of which I had for 7 years+ each, one with 156k on the clock and it was still on its original clutch when it was scrapped.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 16th March 2019, 22:48
 
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Low clutch pedal biting point would suggest the clutch pedal travel just needs adjusted(someone maybe adjusted it in to stop the pedal squeek) or that the slave just needs bleeding. As for when it needs replaced, when it stops working. Ive been driving for 31 years, had eleven cars in that time, two of which I had for 7 years+ each, one with 156k on the clock and it was still on its original clutch when it was scrapped.
Sadly, I adjusted the pedal for a higher bite about 9k miles ago, and it's slowly gotten back to where it was. If this bloody wind ever dies down, I'll go outside and bleed the system, I'm not too keen on my bonnet meeting the windscreen at the minute! I'll most likely change the clutch and flywheel within the next couple of months, but I'll buy them this evening while the discounts are on!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 23rd March 2019, 13:29
 
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Well, that was a PITA, but the clutch has been bled. What came out wasn't pretty. Not as bad as some I've seen, but the difference it's made is pretty big. Notchiness is gone, pedal travel is smoother, and the biting point is about halfway up the travel now. Should see me through until I can send it off to have the new (heftier) clutch and lightened flywheel fitted early summer.



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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 23rd March 2019, 21:37
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Eek, that fluid was well past usable
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 23rd March 2019, 23:05
 
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I put about a third of a bottle through the system. Four pumps on the pedal, top up, another four, rinse and repeat. It's odd, because the fluid in the reservoir didn't look nearly that bad, and there was only a really fine 'waterline' of mess to wipe out when the level got down.

Some of the photos I've seen show black gunk in the reservoir and all through the system, so I'm glad it wasn't that bad!

I have a nice new clutch and flywheel that I bought at a 15% discount. I'll get it fitted sometime in the summer, then the only thing left to do is discs and pads if I decide to be really fussy. I could have just polished it and flipped it for what I paid, but I kinda like the FN2, I might stick with it until 370z's get down to around £7k!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 25th March 2019, 10:50
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Eek, that fluid was well past usable
Looks more like a cup of tea!
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 2nd April 2019, 19:07 Thread Starter
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Jeez - how bad is your tea making ?
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 16th April 2019, 11:32
 
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Clutch Question

I have a question. My friend have 2007 Civic 1.8 petrol. Fee days ago his clutch went to the floor. He parked the car and after a while clutch started operating normally. He went to the mechanic and he told him that clutch needs replacing and looking at £600 all in.

He asked other mechanic and told him what the symptoms are and had same diagnosis without mechanic even seeing the car. He said that the bearing is the problem.

His clutch fluid looks like this:


Mechanic said that this is normal colour for hydraulic fluid. I thought that this should be clear/yellowish like the brake fluid.

The question is: are they trying to rip him off?

Unfortunately my friend is not mechanically minded so I probably I will need to have a look at his car.

Iím sure that before changing clutch is worth checking master/slave cylinder and clutch dumper for any leaks or am I wrong?

Last edited by piasek; 16th April 2019 at 11:40.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 16th April 2019, 17:50
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That fluid should be same colour as the brake fluid - has it ever been changed, is it the original fluid (12 years old!)?

Change the fluid first then see what happens - even Honda dealers only charge about £30 for that.
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