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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just done 21,000miles in the last year and as the car has 60,000miles on it i think it is time to give it a full major service.

I gave it a service 10,000miles ago which consisted of oil (Castrol Magnatec 0w30 C2),Honda oil filter, Bosch air filter, Bosch (carbon) pollen filter.

So far i have bought -
Oil 5l (Castrol Magnatec 0w30 C2)
Honda oil filter
Honda MTF 3 gear oil 2l
Honda fuel filter
Honda sump & gearbox washers
Bosch air filter
Bosch pollen filter

Is there anything else i should change for a major service?
 

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the 8G diesel needed initial coolant change at 62500 miles or 5 years -- not sure if the 9G is any different

if you go for it be sure to use the Honda coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good shout on the coolant. I will get some ordered as i don't know if it has been changed as of yet.

Of course i will be using Honda Type 2 pre-mixed coolant as recommended by Honda in all of their vehicles. There are only two fluids i don't mess with in my Honda's, Type 2 Coolant and MTF 3 gear oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Since i had a free day today i gave my MK9 a full major service which took about 2-3hrs taking my time.

Here is all of the stuff i bought in preparation.













First off i decided to replace the coolant using Honda Type 2 coolant while the engine was cold. I have read that the 1.6L IDTEC takes 5.7L so i bought 6L of the Type 2 coolant.

With this being the first car i have worked on that had a radiator cap on the expansion tank and not on the radiator itself i wasn't sure on the correct procedure but all i did was start the car and set the climate to HI, switch the engine off then remove the radiator cap.

There is a hole in the undertray below the white petcock in the radiator, i placed my suitable receptacle/pan under the bumper then twisted the petcock anticlockwise until the coolant flowed out. This method takes a while but i just spent the time removing the airbox to get to the gearbox fill plug. Once the dribbling stopped i removed the petcock from the radiator which released the last of the coolant. I also unbolted the expansion tank to tip the rest of the coolant down into the radiator, squeezed the coolant pipes until the last drop came out of the radiator. Once that was done i screwed the petcock back in until tight just using my fingers (do not overtighten as it's only plastic).

Next i placed a funnel on the expansion tank and filled with coolant. This takes a while as the coolant burps it's way down into the radiator. After the first 5L had went down into the radiator and i heard no more burping i started the engine and left it running to get it circulating, checking that hot air was coming through the vents inside the cabin and topped up until the MAX mark on the expansion tank.

Honda in their wisdom decided to make the top half of the expansion tank in black plastic so trying to see the level of coolant is a nightmare! I had to get a flashlight and put it against the white bottom part to try and see where the level was, even at that it was a struggle so i ended up tilting the unbolted tank to see the difference in the level to gauge when it hit the MAX mark.
I would say i put in overall 5.4L of coolant going by what was left in the 1L bottle i used to finish topping up.


Since the engine was now warm i moved on to changing the engine oil and oil filter. I used Castrol Magnatec 0W30 ACEA C2,genuine Honda Oil filter (15400RZ0G01) and a 14mm engine sump plug washer 5 HONDA OIL SUMP WASHERS 94109-14000 ALU1403L T3550605 - SW30X5 | eBay

Easy enough job to do tbh. I used this oil filter tool Laser Oil Filter Cup Wrench 76mm | Halfords UK to get the filter off with a 3/8 ratchet and extension.
I pre-filled the oil filter before fitting and then filled up the rest through where the oil cap is located. pouring in 4L, checked the dipstick (which was just above the min mark) then started the car for a short period. Left for 5 mins to drain then topped up according until the level on the dipstick was at the top hole.
With an oil filter change the engine took approximately 4.7-4.8L of oil till it hit the MAX mark on the dipstick.


Next up was the gearbox oil change using Honda MTF-3 and a Genuine 20mm sump plug washer (9410920000)
As i had already removed the airbox earlier this was a quick and easy enough job apart from the fill and sump plugs are on pretty tight and took some force to break them free.

I decided to leave the main undertray on but there is just enough room to get a 3/8 extension into the sump plug to break it free. i then used an empty 2l bottle with the bottom cut off to collect the gearbox oil and funnel it down into an oil pan. put the sump plug with new washer back in and tightened it back up with the same force as i undone it with.

I wedged a funnel into the fill port and put in approximately 1.9L of the MTF-3 oil. There isn't a washer on the fill port bolt so i just put it back in and tightened it to the same spec as the sump plug bolt.

After 61,000miles the gearbox oil was a fair bit discoloured so i am glad i changed it as it looks like it hasn't been done yet.


I put the air filter box back in with a new Bosch air filter. I am sure i read that Honda recommend to change the filter every 20,000miles but that seems too long for me so i like to change around the 10,000mile mark. The filter i replaced didn't look too bad but it's a cheap part to replace and gives me piece of mind if anything else tbh.
I have been using Bosch filters for years and they have been perfectly fine imho. The fit is spot on, i don't see any difference in mpg or performance and they are a fair bit cheaper than OEM as well.

Last up was the fuel filter. I used a genuine Honda fuel filter (16902RZ0G01).

I have read some threads about doing this on the 1.6L IDTEC so i went into this job with some trepidation as i do all of my work on my drive with the car on axle stands. To say it's a bit tight is an understatement. It is a nightmare of a job on axle stands.

I didn't bother moving the oil filter bracket and decided to just remove it on it's own. Once you remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the filter there is a bit more wiggle room to undo the hoses and such. After a lot of swearing i manged to get it done but it's not something a look forward to doing again.

I cycled the key about 5-10 times to prime the filter and used the primer in the passengers footwell just to make sure before firing up the engine. Seems to be OK and the engine starts fine.
 
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