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The Ginga Ninga
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126 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After reading several posts & with help from Jen-Dea( Many Thanks) I decided to change my fuel filter.
It looks & sounds a lot scarier than it is.
I figured it needed a how 2 so here goes!

First off ****** Make sure your fuel tank is full""""""""""""""

You will need
10mm Deep socket or spanner
12mm socket
7/16 socket
Extension bar
Pliers or long nose pliers
Oil filter removal chain tool ( or honda fuel filter removal tool)
Large adjustable spanner or pliers
A big coffee

Getting to the Filter

Remove the Battery Strap, Battery & Battery Box. remove the two slotted screws & remove the black cover over the bleed bulb.​

Remove the 10mm bolt on the base of the air filter. Disconnect the air filter pipe. Loosen the 7/16 bolt on the top pipe of the air filter box & remove the top pipe and disconnect the plug next to it.​

Remove the airfilter bracket. its not important, but lets you get easier access.
Remove the two fuel pipes. Squeeze the clips with pliers & move the clips back. Watch out for spillage!
The rear pipe is the supply pipe.
Unplug the top plug (black)
Remove the two 12mm bolts on top of the housing. To get to the rear one, slide the extension bar behind the large grey plug in the top of the picture.​

Unplug the main plug & the water sensor plug. the release tabs point downwards & you will loose some skin, but they will release!
remove the 12mm bolt on the front of the filter (visible in previous pic)
Then lift out the filter assembly.​

This is what your left with. Remove the water sensor with a large adjustable spanner or adjustable pliers.
I used an oil filter removal chain to unscrew the filter. Screw the new filter to the body with the new seal in place.
Screw the water sensor back in to the new filter with the new seal.​

Get a coffee
clean the blood off your skint knuckles. cos by this point the diesel will be nipping a bit!​

reassemble in reverse. Before you connect the supply pipe, squeeze the bleed bulb until fuel comes out.​

Bleeding the system isn't as scary as it sounds. Once everything is connected again, squeeze the bleed bulb until it gets difficult to squeeze.​

Start the car & leave running for a while. If no drips happen, stop it & start again.​

Job done​
 

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Premium Member
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186 Posts
cbs2 glad you managed to change the filtre, you wll have piece of mind now.. dout the dealers volunteer to change them at the specified intervel. Good pics and how to.
 

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I drive my Mistress...
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874 Posts
Good how to mate, will keep this in mind as mine is coming due for a change!
 

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Registered
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23 Posts
Me and a friend (who's good with car servicing etc) had a go at it last weekend. I printed off your instructions and attempted the filter last......i'm sorry to say we failed. It's the most stupid location for a fuel filter i've ever seen!!!
We got as far as the last plug that you have to push downwards and for love nor money it wouldn't budge, afraid of snapping something we put it back together and hoped all would be good....it was and the beast runs as good as before.
10 out of 10 for the instructions and 10 out of 10 to Honda for the stupidest placement of a filter!

I'm friends with all the guys at my local Honda dealer (who incidentally giggled when i told them we where attempting to change it) so will pop a tenner to one of them to change it for me, just wanted to do it ourselves as it's 'only a filter' ;) lol!
 

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Changed mine yesterday. Took about three hours of frustration. When I removed the airfilter bracket I found the member which supported it appeared to be a lot closer to the filter as it appears in your photo. As a result there was no way I could get my fingers down to pull off/unclip the water sensor and pump plug. I eventually got it out but most of my time was spent trying to replace the lower bolt which mounts the filter housing onto the bracket. In the end I had to force my large fingers down and bare the pain while I located the bolt in the thread. Also, Can someone please confirm where this bleed bulb is located. I can't find it anywhere though I am sure someone will now tell me it is somewhere obvious. As I couldn't find it I had to do a lot of cranking to prime the system and even had to do a quick recharge of my battery which was beginning to struggle a bit before the engine finally kicked into life. For the cars last service I paid a garage to change this filter, but I am sure that the filter I removed was the original one fitted to my car four years ago as had early stages of corrosion and showed no signs of ever being changed. Ther was no way a mechanic had ever been near this.
 

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Dr. Evil
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3,831 Posts
I can't believe I missed this how-to, I changed my fuel filter yesterday and these pics would have been quite helpful!

Changed mine yesterday. Took about three hours of frustration. When I removed the airfilter bracket I found the member which supported it appeared to be a lot closer to the filter as it appears in your photo. As a result there was no way I could get my fingers down to pull off/unclip the water sensor and pump plug. I eventually got it out but most of my time was spent trying to replace the lower bolt which mounts the filter housing onto the bracket. In the end I had to force my large fingers down and bare the pain while I located the bolt in the thread. Also, Can someone please confirm where this bleed bulb is located. I can't find it anywhere though I am sure someone will now tell me it is somewhere obvious. As I couldn't find it I had to do a lot of cranking to prime the system and even had to do a quick recharge of my battery which was beginning to struggle a bit before the engine finally kicked into life. For the cars last service I paid a garage to change this filter, but I am sure that the filter I removed was the original one fitted to my car four years ago as had early stages of corrosion and showed no signs of ever being changed. Ther was no way a mechanic had ever been near this.
Bleed bulb would literally have been staring you in the face as you were struggling to try and unclip the wires. It's above the engine, the manual gives a good idea of where it is, better than me trying to explain.

The biggest pain for me was trying to unclip the wires, they just wouldn't budge for a long time. I'm sure we (had to enlist my Dad in the end too) spent at least an hour on the two wires that needed unclipping, the rest wasn't too bad.

My Dad said next time I do the filter, make sure to tell him in advance. He'll make sure he's on holiday :facepalm:
 

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Twisted by the Dark side
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1,278 Posts
Did this yesterday, took about an hour!

Lots of messing and need two pair of hands to remove the filter from the housing.
engine management came on, took it for a short drive then disconnected the battery for 10 mins. This didn't get rid of it, so I just kept turning the ignition on and off this cleared the fault. job done.

very helpful HOW TO.

CHEERS[smilie=upyeah.gif]
 

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Registered
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80 Posts
Hi, I'm about to do a full service myself on my 2.2 ES. This is a great 'How To' for my fuel filter change - however I have a couple of questions:

Before you remove the fuel filter do you need to decompress the system or anything? I think I saw before the need to remove a relay and let the system cut out, and then prime it again afterwards... or am I getting confused with a fuel pump??! :facepalm:
 

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I'm trying to change my AIR FILTER but it won't budge. Is there a 'HOW TO' on changing the air filter? I'm worried about breaking something for what must be a very simple job.

Thanks
 

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Registered
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80 Posts
Well.. I did the filter change as part of the service on my 2.2 ES last Wednesday. Oh boy was I in for a world of punishment! A few clarifications I would like to suggest to the above (otherwise excellent) how to:

cbs2, in your write up you said "to unplug the main plug & the water sensor plug the release tabs point downwards & you will loose some skin, but they will release!" I think a clearer instruction would be: "To disconnect the electrics (main plug and water sensor) you need to squeeze both ends of the plug, this dis-engages the (stupid and unnescessary) locking mechanism which otherwise keeps them locked tightly in place." This took me around TWO HOURS in the November cold to figure out!!!

Also a few people have asked about the priming bulb - well it's concealed behind a black metal case at the top end of the engine bay:





The two screws which hold this in place only need to be rotated 90 degrees to open. This reveals a rubber 'squeeze' priming bulb which you use to fill the new fuel filter after changing.

I found it useful to reconnect the rear fuel line first onto the newly changed fuel filter, prime the filter until diesel came out, then reconnect the front fuel line and keep priming until the bulb goes hard. When doing it this way the engine started first turn of the starter with no problems at all.

Hope this added info helps :D
 
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