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Discussion Starter #1
Hi eveyone, just wondering if anyone else had this little issue going on, especially with the 2.2 deisel.

From a cold start, takes about 15 minutes to feel "close to hot" air from the vents, it warms up within 2-3 minutes but doesnt get any hotter for about another 10 minutes.

Once thing ive noticed, is that the gauge goes up and sits between quarter and half way up, and no further. I am unsure if this is normal as ive had the car since February and its always been like that. Could this be a clue?

I am aware the deisels have an extra heater, which probably explains the immediate warm air after 2-3 minutes, but after that it's constant for 10 minutes or so, but even then its not really as hot as i would expect.

I have an ongoing A/C issue and the condensor is being replaced next week...todays colder weather has prompted me to think maybe I should be ordering a new radiator at the same time since work is being done in that area.

Any thoughts or ideas welcome!

cheers

Jakey
 

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its normal
many state its becasue the 2.2 engine is so efficient it takes longer to warm up
id be more inclined to think its that the water cooling system is very efficent and theres more coolant there to heat up before things start to get warm
 

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The gauge is not a direct indication of engine temperature. It's driven by the ECU, and based on several parameters, including the coolant temperature sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its normal
many state its becasue the 2.2 engine is so efficient it takes longer to warm up
id be more inclined to think its that the water cooling system is very efficent and theres more coolant there to heat up before things start to get warm


Hmmm...now call me old school, i was always told that in order for an engine to be at its optimum efficiency and performance level, all its componants need to be well lubricated by nice warm oil - and its why you should never thrash a car from cold as its inefficient and its damaging whille the engine is trying to warm-up!

Being new to deisels I am more than happy yo be proved wrong and be told this is the not the case....



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Discussion Starter #7
The gauge is not a direct indication of engine temperature. It's driven by the ECU, and based on several parameters, including the coolant temperature sensor.


Oh thats interesting!

So are you saying my gauge level is normal or abnormal? Ie where should it sit 'normally'?

And also that it doesn't relate to the temp of the air from the vents either?

So could i be looking at wrong coolant be used for example?


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Hmmm...now call me old school, i was always told that in order for an engine to be at its optimum efficiency and performance level, all its componants need to be well lubricated by nice warm oil - and its why you should never thrash a car from cold as its inefficient and its damaging whille the engine is trying to warm-up!

Being new to deisels I am more than happy yo be proved wrong and be told this is the not the case....



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Nobody is suggesting 'thrashing' a vehicle,but driving like miss Daisy will prolong the period of possible damage so you bring it up to temp as quick as possible without abuse.Using the turbo is the best way,laboring a cold engine is like i said not good nor is prolonging it.
Engines are not what they used to be,tolerances are much better.Folk need to keep up with the times...........
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nobody is suggesting 'thrashing' a vehicle,but driving like miss Daisy will prolong the period of possible damage so you bring it up to temp as quick as possible without abuse.Using the turbo is the best way,laboring a cold engine is like i said not good nor is prolonging it.

Engines are not what they used to be,tolerances are much better.Folk need to keep up with the times...........

Ok well i tend to drive from cold start wth a bit more hesitation to put the boot down until i 'feel' its warm enough to do it, if only in thinking it will preserve the longevity of the engine and its conponants...not for (fuel) efficiency reasons....as thats whats ive been taught and learnt over the years.

My daily drive to work is usually 20 minutes to half-hour and thats plenty of time for any engine to get fully warmed up - which i think it does - but the air vent temperature just doesnt feel as hot as it should be.


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Ok well i tend to drive from cold start wth a bit more hesitation to put the boot down until i 'feel' its warm enough to do it, if only in thinking it will preserve the longevity of the engine and its conponants...not for (fuel) efficiency reasons....as thats whats ive been taught and learnt over the years.

My daily drive to work is usually 20 minutes to half-hour and thats plenty of time for any engine to get fully warmed up - which i think it does - but the air vent temperature just doesnt feel as hot as it should be.


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Other than the pistons,rings and bores,which will warm up fast,what other components are you protecting?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Other than the pistons,rings and bores,which will warm up fast,what other components are you protecting?


Is that a relevant question? Im simply saying thats what ive been told over the years; is good practice.

I still need to find out why my Civic's vented air is not as warm after 15+ minutes! My previous EP3 and EP2 were really hot after 5-6 mins and thats my yard-stick


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Is that a relevant question? Im simply saying thats what ive been told over the years; is good practice.

I still need to find out why my Civic's vented air is not as warm after 15+ minutes! My previous EP3 and EP2 were really hot after 5-6 mins and thats my yard-stick


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i dont know how these cars work with regard to temp control but the general rule of thumb is to monitor temps via the OBD port ,and if its low,change the thermostat.
Low temps on a Diesel will also decrease performance and mpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i dont know how these cars work with regard to temp control but the general rule of thumb is to monitor temps via the OBD port ,and if its low,change the thermostat.
Low temps on a Diesel will also decrease performance and mpg


Oh really?!

Thats very interesting...i will now have my mechanic put it on his scanner to temp-check it while he's sorts out the condenser.

I have already pre-warned him about my concerns about it being colder than expected. I might just give him a thermostat to change anyway come to think of it since he said he's gotta take the rad off anyway.

Yep I'll do that...thanks for that


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Oh thats interesting!

So are you saying my gauge level is normal or abnormal? Ie where should it sit 'normally'?

And also that it doesn't relate to the temp of the air from the vents either?

So could i be looking at wrong coolant be used for example?


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Honda temp gauges normally sit just under half way, so your's is reading a little low.

There is no direct correlation between the temperature gauge and the available vent temperature (as gauge is not a direct indicator of coolant temp).

The cannot be because of the coolant.

I suspect your thermostat is either failing to shut, or is modulating too low. As already suggested by 1civic, reading the coolant sensor data available at the OBD port should provide a useful indication as to what's going on.
 

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Other than the pistons,rings and bores,which will warm up fast,what other components are you protecting?
every mooving part and the stationary parts the other side of shell bearings
components need to heat up at steady pace rather than some heat up fast while others are cold causing tolerences outside optimum ranges
 

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you might find the cooler than expected air from the vents is related to climate control especially when the AC is switched on
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you might find the cooler than expected air from the vents is related to climate control especially when the AC is switched on


I dont usually use aircon first thing or in then mornings so its just heat straight-off im referring to here.

But i know what your saying

(Although, from what im reading the Aircon should be on all the time, and so its gonna soon be habit to stick onto Auto!)


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Diesels always take longer to warm up than a Petrol, they rev lower..... I can overtake vigorously before the temp gauge moves and my car has done just over 140k and still runs sweet as a nut..... Maybe when people all ran their cars on Mineral Oil it may have been best to drive like Miss Daisy till it warms up but now almost all run on fully synthetic it shouldn't be an issue....
 

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every mooving part and the stationary parts the other side of shell bearings
components need to heat up at steady pace rather than some heat up fast while others are cold causing tolerences outside optimum ranges
Shell bearings are not like pistons and rings,they are like the Turbo,they run on a bed of oil and even when cold,there will be no contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Diesels always take longer to warm up than a Petrol, they rev lower..... I can overtake vigorously before the temp gauge moves and my car has done just over 140k and still runs sweet as a nut..... Maybe when people all ran their cars on Mineral Oil it may have been best to drive like Miss Daisy till it warms up but now almost all run on fully synthetic it shouldn't be an issue....


Ok I feel i need to just clarify what i was asking about - specifically the temp of the air coming from the vents.

Now i naturally assumed that that is linked to the temparature of the water system - like all my previous cars before were - but it seems by the replies i have seen they are not necessarily linked! Or maybe they are but i am reading them wrong.

Since my post i have been keeping a close eye on the temp guage (below), which i feel is probably normal. So i am not concerned about that.



My concern is purely at how quickly the air is heated up from warm to hot, when all my previous Honda's took less than 5 minutes....

Hope that makes sense.



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