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damn thing is falling apart on me!

  • rear brakes wont do another trackday/reach spring. currently have 13months on them (Dixcel Z) and already got 1 pad thinner than the backing plate. I've a few months till i'm even considering my next trackday and enough meat on them till then so no rush but need to figure something out.
  • interior light switch rattling. doesn't seem quite as straight forward as i thought to stop due to the slide design. need to take a better look rather than in work carpark.
  • windscreen plastic frame for radar unit plastic has come unstuck on 1 of the corners. another rattle.
  • stop/start wouldn't kick in this morning. iMID had no info on why it wouldn't trigger.
 

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damn thing is falling apart on me!

  • stop/start wouldn't kick in this morning. iMID had no info on why it wouldn't trigger.
Have a look through these (attached)
 

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only thing i can see on that pdf's is possible humidity.
drove with heater off on way home from work, still no stop/start. imid has no info and no icons on the dash.
everything on the car seems fine, no DTC's, lights or anything misbehaving.

almost positive it was working last week and it stopped working sometime over the weekend.



I've pulled battery for 20mins while i fixed the 2 rattles. see what happens tomorrow or later tonight if i cba to go out in it.
 

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StopStart had the chance multiple times this morning, only worked once when i got to the work carpark barrier.
get into parking bay and iMID simply shows the S/S icon with a strike through so no real info on why it's not activating. Thats more than its done in the last few days, but still no idea whats going on with it.
iirc if it's low battery then it'll come up with a battery symbol, so reasonably sure it's not that even though it is 3.5yrs old. although that wouldnt explain things over the weekend as it got a 3hour drive to the east coast.
 

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interesting discovery today... removed OBD dongle before driving home... stop/start working.
Plugged it back in at the end of the road, drove the few doors home and no stop/start activation.
 

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StopStart had the chance multiple times this morning, only worked once when i got to the work carpark barrier.
get into parking bay and iMID simply shows the S/S icon with a strike through so no real info on why it's not activating. Thats more than its done in the last few days, but still no idea whats going on with it.
iirc if it's low battery then it'll come up with a battery symbol, so reasonably sure it's not that even though it is 3.5yrs old. although that wouldnt explain things over the weekend as it got a 3hour drive to the east coast.


No if the battery is too low for stop / start. You don’t see the battery symbol. You just get the (SS) and strike through.
It’s happened a few times when I have not driven the car much or far fir like a couple of weeks. Soon sorted with a decent drive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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car grown another 2 faults.
driver window mechanism seems to be loose making it knock once as itstarts/stop moving.

subframe/rear engine been knocking like there's a loose hammer wedged down there somewhere. rarely but sometimes knocks but rather substantial when it does it. not sure if i fancy driving it till the weekend when i can take a look..


growing tired of the car again.
 
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thats my problem. Car is good when its working. I don't want the hassle of selling but the amount of time and money i've thrown at the fk2 it's hard to let go and call it even if i could revert it back to stock and walk away with cash.


wouldnt know where i'd end up. Lexus or toyota is tempting down to reliability. track toy i've no idea where i'd go... modded gt86 with around 280bhp, caterham, atom... and then do i keep it road legal else i'd then need a car & trailer to tow it.
I'm also getting to the point of wondering if an alternative to a car is the better choice for the work commute. a cheap moped has been tempting me recently.
 

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just had a SMS - girodisc parts turning up today; 2peice discs and titanium shims! more work for the weekend but at least this is good stuff :D
 

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I had the entire drivers side window assembly replaced under warranty when it started rattling (car was about 1.5 years - 2 years at the time maybe). Sounded like a somebody kicking a green house door whilst driving with the window open slightly.

I've been tempted to get something different. The only thing stopping me really is that there's nothing in the same class/ price range that I'd rather have, and I cannot justify selling up and going ahead on a £40k - £50k finance deal right about now. My dream car would be a GTR, so I've been in the mind set of just stick with the Type R until the 15 plates (I like the 2015 facelift the most) are inline with what I can afford. However, I like the idea of a BMW M2, M4, Lexus RCF or perhaps a Jaguar V8 F-Type or an XFR-S (blue one, supercharged V8, boy racer spoiler) which can all be obtained from £25k - £45k.
 

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yeah, RCF interests me, but i've a feeling be way more money to track than the FK2.


atoms seem silly so that seems like a no-go for me.


for those not seen, girodiscs turne dup yesterday but potential machining issue where the pad is running on an unmachined part of the disc. inner face is right, outer face isnt so makes maybe 5mm of the pad run on this unmachined area. Thats about my story with the fk2. assuming it is faulty, it's another instance of bad parts to go with multiple warranty claims, a denial, and the various rattles & knocks ive had. car not even 4yr old yet.


i'm seriously tempted to buy a daily and then strip the FK2 to make road legal track car i'm not reliant upon as a daily. but then then why bother with the FK2 at all when there's far cheaper track weapons out there.
 
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I'd imagine it'd be quite the build thread to turn the RCF into a half decent track weapon haha. Switching to one of those would be a move away from that sort of thing imo. More a luxury cruiser, perhaps with some engine mods, blasphemous turbo/ supercharger conversion, it'd make a great straight liner, but that's about it. I guess if you wanted to stay within the realm of a track car that you could use daily, then perhaps an M2?

I've also considered buying a cheap daily to use in conjunction with the Type R, more because I don't wanna be putting 40-50 miles on it every day. But I get what you mean; what's the point of an FK2 if you're not gonna daily it?
 

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so another week and another problem, so along with the suspected dodgy turbo wastegate (just trying to stomach when to get a new turbo) I now have a cold start issue, its hunting on the revs and trying to stall could be misfiring but only whilst it does the high idle stage and then everything seems normal. my main thoughts so far is the PCV but haven't done any checks yet, it's in for a service and MOT on Saturday so not sure whether to mention it or not.

this car is starting to loose its appeal!
 

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a few things i've noticed with rev hunting - usually a breather pipe; either the ones on the intake pipe, or PCV. nothing too major.


'sup with the wastegate? could this be an ideal time to do the t-valve mod?


mine has been reliable over the last few weeks, so something bound to go wrong soon! 2weeks till donny so no doubt that'll trigger something.
 

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t valve done, and wastegate issue is when you go onto WOT it sounds like a stone flicking up against metal work (best way I can describe it) and boost drops to around 1 bar or less then after a couple to 5 seconds you hear the noise again and off you go with full boost (1.8 bar in my case) theres no hisses or wooshes so not recirc valve.
 

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Quick question guys. This week the car feels like it's dragging ,like it's towing something. Turns out the passenger rear is extremely hot,even after only a short distance driving. I removed bolts from caliper today and the pads need changing and possibly the discs to. Will this solve the problem or is it something more serious ?
 

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t valve done, and wastegate issue is when you go onto WOT it sounds like a stone flicking up against metal work (best way I can describe it) and boost drops to around 1 bar or less then after a couple to 5 seconds you hear the noise again and off you go with full boost (1.8 bar in my case) theres no hisses or wooshes so not recirc valve.
boost issue then.... wasn't there an issue with a weak spring or something on the recirc valve? not sure if a weak spring would cause hiss/woosh as it leaks.



i'll admit, i'm outta my depth on what could cause it since you've already covered all my suggestions. mine would most likely be heading off to one of the tuners and aftermarket bits stuck on depending what they find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6,339 ·
Quick question guys. This week the car feels like it's dragging ,like it's towing something. Turns out the passenger rear is extremely hot,even after only a short distance driving. I removed bolts from caliper today and the pads need changing and possibly the discs to. Will this solve the problem or is it something more serious ?
Your brakes have been binding on that caliper. You might need to clean up the sliders and or maybe file the pads so they move freely.

If you're really unlucky your piston may have stuck and you'll need to refurb or replace the caliper.

It's a very common thing across most Hondas unfortunately.
 

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Quick question guys. This week the car feels like it's dragging ,like it's towing something. Turns out the passenger rear is extremely hot,even after only a short distance driving. I removed bolts from caliper today and the pads need changing and possibly the discs to. Will this solve the problem or is it something more serious ?
binding caliper then. worn brakes wouldnt account for the heat.
driver rear pad thickness ok?


pads seem fairly soft so dont wear the discs. assuming average miles, i'm surprised you've hit 9mm on the rear discs already.
 
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