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Discussion Starter #1
I could not find a guide or ‘tube video that was exactly for the UK 9th Generation Civic so I thought after doing mine I would do a write up.
No pictures but not necessary.

FRONT:


  • Before raising the car, turn full lock to expose brake caliper.
  • Chock, jack and further support with axle stand.
  • Remove wheel and remove spring on outside of caliper.
  • Remove plastic cap from top and bottom slide pin access (at rear).
  • Using a 7mm allen key or socket attachment which is better, undo and remove pins, the two slide pins are not very tight.
  • Remove caliper which maybe tight if disc is lipped.
  • Clean both pins and slide points on pad holder.
  • I suggest lightly lubricating the piston rubber dust cover to prevent sticking etc on retraction using either red rubber grease or silicon grease.
  • Push piston back into housing fully using clamp or rewind tool, and an old pad.
  • Check to see if piston is back far enough then lubricate slide points on pad holder using brake grease, not copper slip but one containing no metal.
  • Replace the new pads, the caliper and then lube the pins with silicon grease, insert and tighten, not sure of torque.
  • Replace plastic caps and then the spring.
  • Pump brake pedal till hard and you are done.

Points to note:

Do not let caliper hang,
Keep an eye on brake fluid level,
Wether or not you release pressure via bleed nipple is up to you.
Check new pads for direction of rotation and wear indicator pad goes on inside of disc. Note old pads perhaps.
Pistons on front are a straight push back with no rewinding.

REAR:

Exactly the same as the front with regard to pins and spring.
To retract piston, rewind CLOCKWISE on BOTH wheels.
I tried the cube and although it rotated I could not get the piston to retract so I used the rewind tool.
Be very careful of the rubber dust cover as you are now twisting and if it sticks….well.

Also note that a tab on the inner pad(with the wear indicator) must engage with one of the four cutouts in the piston.
When replacing said pad, if tab not properly engaged the pad will not lie flush. Also this causes excessive wear and possible hand brake malfunction, apparently.
The caliper may be awkward to replace because the handbrake cable is connected but it is doable without disconnecting cable.
A five minute drive with gentle braking and a few hand brake applications should mean a return to positive braking without a dab to improve feel, and the handbrake should tighten up too.
Do not forget to bed in the pads.
 

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Nice write off. I open the bleeding screw when winding/push back the piston as it could push seals back by not opening the bleeding screw.
I usually bleed some fluid out as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,
The master cylinder cap(in the engine bay), does indeed just unscrew. If I recall correctly the cap is not really threaded but has two locating tabs which also lock in the closed position.
With regard to copper grease, most people seem to use grease like Pagid Cera-Tec Brake Lube or Bosch Bosch Superfit Brake Lubricant. These do not contain any metal, they are silicon like and do not go hard. Some pad replacement kits include lubricant for the rear of pads and it is not copper grease.

Hope that helps.
 

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Ex-Pat Geordie!
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Can you just unscrew the brake fluid cap in the engine bay and why no copper grease?
I always unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap when I do brakes. Copper slip has copper particles in it so would score the sliders. Needs to be something with no metallic particles in it.
 

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REAR:

Exactly the same as the front with regard to pins and spring.
To retract piston, rewind CLOCKWISE on BOTH wheels.
I tried the cube and although it rotated I could not get the piston to retract so I used the rewind tool.
Be very careful of the rubber dust cover as you are now twisting and if it sticks….well.

Also note that a tab on the inner pad(with the wear indicator) must engage with one of the four cutouts in the piston.
When replacing said pad, if tab not properly engaged the pad will not lie flush. Also this causes excessive wear and possible hand brake malfunction, apparently.

The caliper may be awkward to replace because the handbrake cable is connected but it is doable without disconnecting cable.
A five minute drive with gentle braking and a few hand brake applications should mean a return to positive braking without a dab to improve feel, and the handbrake should tighten up too.
Do not forget to bed in the pads.
First of all thanks for your detailed instructions and advises. :surprise:
I did mine today and got basically two questions :

A) - I used a brake-rewind tool to retract the piston, the tool reached the endpoint, piston looks at the end position, but its still possible de rotate it. I dont see visually if the pistons rewinds or not but it still possible to rotate it (without the tool for example). Does they are supposed to not rotate when end position is reached ?


B) - I did the mistake to order a pair of Ferodo plates that don't have this famous tab :


After putting them, and finishing the job (I assume that everything else was done properly) I noticied slightly that the fuel consumption of the car increased a litte (<0,5l/100kms) in my daily trip.
Everything sounds fine when driving at low speed, handbrake is working, no problems. But and there is my main point : after drinving >100kmh I hear a typical noise coming from the wheels, like if the pads are biting the disc, its not an heavy noise but the same as when you reach the wear indicator for example.

It is possible that :
- the pad is not properly lying ?
- maybe I didn't reached the real end position of the pistons ?

Brake pedal acts correctly (hmm ok I feel it less stiff than my previous cars but just got the Civic last week maybe not used to it).

Thanks for you help guys!
 

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as for copper slip
I don't use it as it starts a reaction with some rubber items and can make them have premature failure
 

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First of all thanks for your detailed instructions and advises. :surprise:
I did mine today and got basically two questions :

A) - I used a brake-rewind tool to retract the piston, the tool reached the endpoint, piston looks at the end position, but its still possible de rotate it. I dont see visually if the pistons rewinds or not but it still possible to rotate it (without the tool for example). Does they are supposed to not rotate when end position is reached ?


B) - I did the mistake to order a pair of Ferodo plates that don't have this famous tab :


After putting them, and finishing the job (I assume that everything else was done properly) I noticied slightly that the fuel consumption of the car increased a litte (<0,5l/100kms) in my daily trip.
Everything sounds fine when driving at low speed, handbrake is working, no problems. But and there is my main point : after drinving >100kmh I hear a typical noise coming from the wheels, like if the pads are biting the disc, its not an heavy noise but the same as when you reach the wear indicator for example.

It is possible that :
- the pad is not properly lying ?
- maybe I didn't reached the real end position of the pistons ?

Brake pedal acts correctly (hmm ok I feel it less stiff than my previous cars but just got the Civic last week maybe not used to it).

Thanks for you help guys!
pedal is always soft after fitting pads until they bed in
 

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Just received my pads for my 9th gen civic 2015 1.6 SR should they look like this?
They are different to my 8th gen and fn2 i had.
First time changing these.
Thanks


Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

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Ex-Pat Geordie!
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They look about right to me. Remember when using the Wind Back tool both sides are Clockwise.
 

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Ex-Pat Geordie!
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2,308 Posts
Also will this be ok for the slider pins


Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
That's what I bought from ECP and use it on mine. Remember to take the sliders out completely and clean them off with something like Scotchbright and then apply the Lubricant.
 

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Just changed my pads thanks for the write up it helped me as i wasn't sure of the allan key size.
I nee to adjust my hand brake now do you know how to adjust it?
On my 8th gen there was a rubber grommet in the arm rest but with the hdmi and usb ports I'm not sure where it is.
Thanks

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There is an access panel at the back of the armrest console that has access to the adjuster.

Strangely, After changing mine I didn't need to adjust.

Just a moment; I'll see if I have the document.
Thanks be nice to know where it is the panel

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Here we go - Attached!
Many thanks it doesn't seem too bad but now I've drove the car!
Ill have a look in morning thank you.
need to get some charge in the battery made a school boy error while doing brakes put football on radio and flattened battery.
So stop start won't work now
Cheers mate.

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