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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, got a seized up A/C compressor which in turn has destroyed my auxiliary belt. Is there a way to delete the A/C? I don't care for air conditioning, and don't fancy chucking money at a new compressor. And the rebuilt ones always fail prematurely, I'd expect Honda to want silly money for a new one.

Also anyone got a link for the tool to do the auxiliary belt tension?

Upon some searching around the forum, some members have used the belt number: 7pk1318 from a EP3 without aircon, but this is on Type R's. I don't think the diesel's have the same set up?
 

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I used one of these but still had to grind down a 14mm socket to get it to fit. Makes relieving the tension on the belt a doddle.

I think all diesels came with aircon so it would be a case of trying to figure out a compatible belt length if the compressor is removed.

This mean you are working on the car again?
 

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i-Vtec
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I found this on Autodoc for you.

Without A/C 1318mm

With A/C 1645mm

Heres the full list for the N22A engine.

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I used one of these but still had to grind down a 14mm socket to get it to fit. Makes relieving the tension on the belt a doddle.

I think all diesels came with aircon so it would be a case of trying to figure out a compatible belt length if the compressor is removed.

This mean you are working on the car again?
Going to order the parts etc, apparently postal service is 3 weeks behind in some areas. The car is all put back together and complete, just needs the tie rod ends and drop links installing. About an hours work. May as well get rid of the A/C and renew the belt before it snaps, there's a crack going through the middle of the belt.

Supposedly the lockdown is being eased beginning next week, so be foolish not to get the car ready for when I'm not a prisoner in my home. Missing my hairdresser currently, got a right mop of hair.

Surely the A/C clutch should disconnect the drive from the compressor?
Clutch is completely seized and cracked the belt, I have a receipt and the previous owner told me he changed the belt, it was brand new when I bought the car. I don't know about being able to get the condenser run freely. I'd presume it'd need stripping down it order to achieve this.

I found this on Autodoc for you.

Without A/C 1318mm

With A/C 1645mm

Heres the full list for the N22A engine.

Thanks for the information.

Has anyone on here deleted their A/C? Can I simply route the non-A/C belt or does the condenser need removing? I deleted A/C on a 1.7 Ford Puma engine, I just installed all of the auxiliary parts from a non-AC 1.25 Fiesta. A bracket was different where the A/C condenser was and then put a 1.25 drive belt on and the A/C was gone.

If I need to remove the A/C condenser, I'll delete all the A/C parts and lines. Saves a bit of weight as well
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok for those doing the above in the future themselves:


This is literally all you have to do. Order the non-AC belt, remove your old one noting the diagram of how the belt goes around the ancillaries and then just run the shorter belt without going around the A/C compresser.

Also, order yourself a serpentine belt tool as the tensioner on this Civic is right against the chasis rail, I would have never got in there with a normal socket / spanner.

I don't think mine is seized as it spins fine by hand with no bearing play. Maybe the clutch is seizing intermittently and destorying the belt. It's lucky I changed it, as there's a deep split in the middle of the belt. And it was changed recently as the writing is still clearly visible on the split belt.

I check all my pulleys and all spin freely with no bearing play, including the water pump. However I'll be swapping the water pump and thermostat some time in the near distant future.
Neglected auxilary belts can snap and wrap around the crankshaft pullet and destroy your engine. It took me 15-30 minutes to swap out the belt with two people.
 
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