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I was just watching some gap adjustment videos for Ford and the guy was securing the compressor clutch from spinning by turning on the air con (ignition on, engine off). This was engaging the clutch, looked a similar set up to Honda but the shims were smaller.

(5 posts to go...goes for a wander through the forums [smilie=whistle.gif])
 

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Thanks MrWoods, fixed mine using the guide.

I don't have a 14mm ring spanner and it turns out my Halfords don't stock that size, so I had to treat myself to a low profile socket set where the sockets slide through the ratchet :) Its still a bit tight so I took one bolt out of the washer bottle and there is enough movement to get the socket onto the bolt, to hold the compressor I just chopped a bit of wooden batten down and wedged it against the floor.

P.S My earlier question about engaging the compressor clutch - it doesn't work. Perhaps if it was manual air con it would lock it...
 

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well got the kit from autodoc , will see how it goes .
took me a good few hours to get rotor pulley off , water bottle half off etc , still to get last cir clip off , now its pissing down so will wait till morning, typical English summer heat wave then temp down by half and rain rain bloody rain..
 

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fitted kit

well got up at 5.45am started on car at 6.15 finished around 12.30pm , a few tea breaks etc.
finished fitting the THERMOTEC Magnetic Clutch, from autodoc.
you dont get any circlips or spacers. (shims )
took the bumper off in the end , took ages to get cir clips out, all fits ok apart from using a washer to get gap right , used all my shims up so you will need some thick ones , ended up using a couple normal washers for now , also had to use old cir-clips . got a new drive belt too, longer then the original so was panicking a bit till i read on here that Honda changed the route so used new route around the pulleys
wasn't getting any power to unit at first so tried live wire direct and was working , then reconnected everything back up and all working fine now . we see how long for .
 

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Quick question started it this morning but gave up in the end. I got the clutch off but I couldn't get it off the stud as the chassis was in the way ? Anything different you have to do with the fn2? Only way I can see to do it is take the compressor off.
 

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I just do it To fn2 today. You have To move the engine little. I use crowbar between engine and chassis. It's not difficult if somebody use crowbar and yourself take the clutch off same time.
 

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had to move water bottle a little and bumper and wheel arch cover to see what i was doing , could not get to top bolt on compressor so left it in place . a lot of fiddling and hours later . job done.
 

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Ah thanks for that will have to give it another go at the weekend, with a large crowbar ??
And on the fn2 you don't need to remove the washer bottle just the wheel arch and you can get to everything you need (depending on the size of your hands and arms). Made up a little tool to hold the clutch plate still as well.
 

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I did this earlier in the week and so far it's been a success - cool air all the way during a 4 hour drive. The hardest part was taking the clutch plate off - the nut is slightly recessed and ideally needed an offset spanner to get at. My Halfords pro one wouldn't fit, but I found an aldi one in my toolbox that did the job! I used a piece of wood wedged between the plate and the floor to stop the plate from turning.

One thing I did notice is that after having the aircon on cold for a couple of hours, it seems like something is icing up and blocking airflow - you can tell when you put the fan on high and it sounds as though it's blowing inside the dash somewhere but no air comes from the vents. If I then switch the aircon off manually, air comes out again. I leave it like that for five minutes or so and switch aircon back on, then it works as normal. Either way I'm getting cold air, so I can live with it.
 

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I just want to report success with changing the shim and thank the OP and others.

I had no difficulty in accessing the nut on a Type S (FN) on the clutch, but I did have the car raised with the wheel, axle, wishbones off for replacement anyway.
The ring spanner went on easily out of my Halfords socket set, although it was difficult to turn due to corrosion. A bit of Plusgas helped. I did also manage to get a socket set in there, although it was a very tight fit. It didn't really offer me anything over the spanner though. I could have moved the water bottle out of the way easily enough if I'd needed to.

My clutch plate was corroded as you'd expect, so I took a hard wire brush to it, and then a much smaller, softer brass brush. You can get sets of 3/4 of these brushes for £3-4 from Ebay or Amazon. The plate came up much cleaner.

I then used the brass one on the compressor where the clutch plate would make contact, gently. It'll already be pretty dirty, but this will take off any corrosion on there. Finally, I wiped it all down with alcoholic wipes. You'll need a few, but it's worth it. The plate and the compressor will make much better contact.

I didn't use the same shims as the op suggested as I found sourcing them to be a bit of a pain. I did manage to find Interior: 10mm, Exterior: 16mm quite easily on Ebay though. The 16mm OD works well - in fact, I'd say better. I swapped the original and the 10id/16od a few times, and the slightly thicker one had less 'wobble' on it. The OD didn't seem to impact anything on the compressor, and the clutch engages instantly when it should.

If I was to do it again, I would go with the 16mm OD for sure. I used 0.1 thickness * 2, which meant the measuring gauge was within spec.

Cheers
 

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Hi all. I followed this guide no problem - the hardest part was getting the undertray off! I used a piece of dowel to wedge the clutch plate whilst undoing the 14mm bolt. It was easy to do with a bog standard spanner, and had no problems with access against the washer fluid bottle. I actually found the gap between the compressor clutch was so large I didn't put any shim in at all.

But now I still don't seem to be getting cold air. Compressor is definitely spinning so it's not the relay. It was regassed recently so I'm guessing I've got a leak. Next step is to test the pressure I think?
 
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