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Tried to follow this but it's way over my head! Pic help on the pdf though so thanks for that. Gonna take it down to a place near me to get it fixed!
Will check for the clutch though myself - so with the AC on it should spin the clutch mech - but if it doesn't it points to that being goosed?
 

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Excellent guide, thanks for pulling together. I've had a look at mine and the clutch seems to be knackered.

Question, I managed to loose of the nut holding the clutch plate on without having to hold the plate and the clutch plate not spinning at all, does this mean that the condenser might be seized/knackered as well? Also tightened back up and no movement.

Weighing up my options and c.£125 for de-gas, clutch and re-gas is a bit of a punt and would be soul destroying if I had to get a recon condenser anyway.

Another question, I've got a Type R so didn't manage to get the clutch completely off as the distance between the pully and chassis is really tight, so looking like I'll have to take the condenser completely off either way, is there enough clearance with the sub frame to wriggle the condenser out or will I have to look at removing the beam and engine mount directly below it?
 

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Question, I managed to loose of the nut holding the clutch plate on without having to hold the plate and the clutch plate not spinning at all, does this mean that the condenser might be seized/knackered as well? Also tightened back up and no movement.

Weighing up my options and c.£125 for de-gas, clutch and re-gas is a bit of a punt and would be soul destroying if I had to get a recon condenser anyway.
The clutch should be free to spin by hand when its disengaged (AC is off).
If the clutch is not engaging / disengaging when the AC is switched on/off then that needs to be fixed before getting a regas.
I'd probably get a garage to replace the whole compressor and regas. Its *possible* that its just the clutch that's knackered but the garage I spoke just wanted to swap the the whole compressor, I guess less fault finding is required that way.
 

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Excellent guide, thanks for pulling together. I've had a look at mine and the clutch seems to be knackered.

Question, I managed to loose of the nut holding the clutch plate on without having to hold the plate and the clutch plate not spinning at all, does this mean that the condenser might be seized/knackered as well? Also tightened back up and no movement.

Weighing up my options and c.£125 for de-gas, clutch and re-gas is a bit of a punt and would be soul destroying if I had to get a recon condenser anyway.

Another question, I've got a Type R so didn't manage to get the clutch completely off as the distance between the pully and chassis is really tight, so looking like I'll have to take the condenser completely off either way, is there enough clearance with the sub frame to wriggle the condenser out or will I have to look at removing the beam and engine mount directly below it?
I tried the same thing yesterday and had exactly the same issue. There is a comment a bit further up this thread where a guy said he managed to move the engine slightly using a crowbar so he could get the plate off. He said it is easier if there are two people, one to move the engine while the other one takes the plate off the spindle. I couldn't see where you would wedge a crowbar to get enough leverage and was worried I might do some serious damage so I gave up. Let me know if you have any success.
 

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Thanks wilson10 I thought that should be the case, I think best thing to do then is replace the compressor, Eurocarparts have a decent sale on at the moment so can get a reconditioned Lucas one for £350 (after £70 surcharge).

OOCH - Yeah I saw that post, didn't have another set of hands and couldn't manage prying it on my own. I'm going to get a de-gas and then change the compressor myself, hoping to not take the beam off but doesn't look all that if I need to, four bolts and then a bolt to an engine mount. I've got the car booked in at TDI North for some work next week so might be a few weeks before I get round to it, will let you know how it goes when I do get to it.
 

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hoping to not take the beam off but doesn't look all that if I need to, four bolts and then a bolt to an engine mount. I've got the car booked in at TDI North for some work next week so might be a few weeks before I get round to it, will let you know how it goes when I do get to it.
Do you mean the beam that sits underneath it?
 

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Yes, #29 in the attached picture. Not much clearance and might be useful to have out the way to get access to the bolts holding the compressor in place
Cheers for that. Wonder if it's possible to loosen the compressor and just move it enough to get the clutch plate off without having to completely remove and degas?
 

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Quite possibly, looks like clearance is only short by a few mm, although might be tricky if you need to replace the pulley and/or coil as well, looks they are held in with snap rings...

I've ordered the compressor so will be replacing the lot at some point.
 

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Quite possibly, looks like clearance is only short by a few mm, although might be tricky if you need to replace the pulley and/or coil as well, looks they are held in with snap rings...

I've ordered the compressor so will be replacing the lot at some point.
Yeah, the coil is definitely held in by a snap ring. I saw a video of someone trying to get one off that was rusted. They had to hammer round it to loosen up the rust before it would budge. Pretty sure mine just needs the shim removing or replacing with a thinner one. My air con worked for about 20 minutes after I put it all back together. The rust I scraped off must have given it a bit of life.
 

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I just wanted to add to this thread and let you all know that I followed the guide and it seems to have fixed my air con. :)

I asked a few garages to do the work in the guide for me (as I didn't have wheel ramps to get under the car). They all refused and just wanted to sell me a new compressor for £400+.

So for £40 I got some wheel ramps and did it myself (following the guide). I used a metal rod to hold the clutch plate in place just like the guide creator. I replaced the shim that was already on there with a 0.3mm thick 10x16mm shim I got off of eBay.

Just done a 50 mile round trip and the air con was coming on every time I wanted it to.

Thanks again to the creators of that guide. You saved me hundreds. :D
 

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Hi All, great guide ??
Currently under the car doing this at the moment, have managed to get the nut off to slide the clutch cover but there isn’t enough room to get it off the spindle (fn2 Type R) any tips on how to prise the engine accross to gain some room. Doesn’t look like many safe options?

Thanks
 

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Just to update this to help anyone else.
I couldn’t manage to move the engine over by myself to get the clutch cover off, so I used a magnet to pull the current shim away from the housing so it was in the middle of the shaft looking from under the car. I then used some narrow wire snips to cut the shim then safely manoeuvre it off the shaft i also cleaned the rust off the inside of the clutch cover before resembling. And hey presto the aircon has now worked fine everyday since and doesn’t cut out once car gets up to temperature !

I had bought thinner shims to refit but coming across the above problem just went ahead with shim removal only. The current one was quite thick that I removed compared to the 0.1&0.2mm shims I purchased

Hope it helps someone, and thanks op for the guide Cheers
 

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Just wanted to say thanks for this thread and guide ?

My air con had the typical failure case, stopping working after about 10 mins on a hot day - perfect!
Someone had already 'been here' because the air con relay had already been changed to the updated part.
My 'clutch gap' was over 1mm so I was fairly confident this was the issue. Makes me wonder if they all left the factory out of spec?

My usual garage also just wanted to fit a new compressor, but then didn't even phone back with a price for that!

So I bought some ramps and managed to do it fairly easily in about an hour or so (1.8 petrol).
I braced the clutch plate with a length of 15mm copper pipe as per the guide.
I struggled a bit to undo the nut, but managed it with some persistence.

This was a good few weeks ago and the AC had been perfect ever since :cool:
 

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Nice one mate, that was my plan but not had the chance to try it yet. Glad to know it works.
 

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Just to let you all know. I changed my compressor clutch bearing and the electro magnet without removing the compressor from the car. And this guide is only from my memory of when I did it myself a few weeks ago so take it with a pinch of salt. I may have missed a few details out but will try my best to help you.

And only follow this guide when you have checked everything else and are certain that the electro magnetic clutch is at fault. Or if you have a noisey bearing.

I couldn't find a complete compressor clutch kit for a type r so used a various parts from another model.

Jump on ebay and get a compressor clutch kit for a 1.8 petrol. The pully wont fit but the electro magnet,locking nut and circlips will and it's only £12.95.

Then get a bearing. Delphi Sanden TRSE07 35x48x20mm. This is for your pully that you are going to remove from your car.

Then onto cox and order a shim kit. About 6 quid if I remember correctly.

Now you have all your parts you can start stripping your car. Get it up on axle stands and not ramps, you need to remove the drivers side wheel and undertray if fitted.
Open the bonnet and remove the little 10mm bolt that holds down your air con pipe, the big silver one coming out of the compressor and past the idler pully, top l/h side of engine as your facing it. This is to give you a bit of wiggle room once the compressor has been unbolted.

Under the car remove the 14mm nylock holding on the clutch plate. I couldn't quite get It off without using a bar to move the engine over to the passenger side ever so slightly. 3mm or so not a lot.

Then with a magnet or small flat screwdriver remove the shim/washer.

Then unbolt the x4 12mm bolts that hold the compressor to the block and pull it down ever so slightly. I used a ratchet spanner for the bolt at the top L/h side as I couldn't get a socket in there. All the rest you will get with a shallow socket.
Now you should be move the full unit up, down, left and right. Were not talking a lot as you dont want to put to much pressure on the aluminium pipework and risk damaging it.

Next you want to remove the pully. Its held on with a circlip. I tired with numerous circlip pliers and non were suitable so a trip to halfords got me one by laser. I cut 20mm off the length of the handles which give me enough room to access the circlip. Once you have the circlip off you unfortunately need to bolt the Compressor back to the block with x2 bolts. This is so you can pry and hit the pully without having the compressor move and damage the pipework.

I used x2 a pry bars at 9 and 3 o clock to rock the pully side to side. It only moved about 1mm but after 20 mins I had worked it loose without damaging the pully. Unbolt the compressor again to fully remove the pully otherwise it will hit the body work.

Then remove the wiring to the electro magnet along with the circlip and slide it off.

That's the easy part done

Put your new electro magnet and circlip onto your compressor and connect up the wiring.

Then put your pully on to blocks of wood not covering the hole where the bearing is coming out of and using a socket hammer out your old bearing thats in the pully. There are some little tabs holding it securely so its quite difficult to remove but a good couple of hits with a 4lb lump hammer works a treat.

Once out clean up the face of the pully with some Emery cloth lube up the bearing and press in your new bearing.
If you damaged the pully removing or its rusty from not being used now would be a good time so hit it with some sand paper to get a nice clean flat surface.

Pit your new pully back onto your compressor and fit the circlip (use the new ones that came in the kit for the 1.8 petrol).

You can now bolt the compressor clutch back upto the block.

Fit a new shim and clutch plate. Measure the gap with a feeler guage I went for 0.55 which I think is to the higher end of the tolerance. Remove shims/add more to get the gap right. (Theres a guide on how to do this bit)

Sorry that it was so long of a read. Hopefully be useful to some people.

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk
 
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