2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner
61 - 64 of 64 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
315 Posts
Will be interested to see if mine is the clutch plate, assuming so. I've had to replace the air con rad / condenser due to being pierced, re-gassed and worked fine (even changed the relay for good measure).

Works great when car is cold, until warms up.. Then hot air just when you don't want it!

Have ordered the shims, will see, FN2 so sounds like it's going to be fun...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Just to let you all know. I changed my compressor clutch bearing and the electro magnet without removing the compressor from the car. And this guide is only from my memory of when I did it myself a few weeks ago so take it with a pinch of salt. I may have missed a few details out but will try my best to help you.

And only follow this guide when you have checked everything else and are certain that the electro magnetic clutch is at fault. Or if you have a noisey bearing.

I couldn't find a complete compressor clutch kit for a type r so used a various parts from another model.

Jump on ebay and get a compressor clutch kit for a 1.8 petrol. The pully wont fit but the electro magnet,locking nut and circlips will and it's only £12.95.

Then get a bearing. Delphi Sanden TRSE07 35x48x20mm. This is for your pully that you are going to remove from your car.

Then onto cox and order a shim kit. About 6 quid if I remember correctly.

Now you have all your parts you can start stripping your car. Get it up on axle stands and not ramps, you need to remove the drivers side wheel and undertray if fitted.
Open the bonnet and remove the little 10mm bolt that holds down your air con pipe, the big silver one coming out of the compressor and past the idler pully, top l/h side of engine as your facing it. This is to give you a bit of wiggle room once the compressor has been unbolted.

Under the car remove the 14mm nylock holding on the clutch plate. I couldn't quite get It off without using a bar to move the engine over to the passenger side ever so slightly. 3mm or so not a lot.

Then with a magnet or small flat screwdriver remove the shim/washer.

Then unbolt the x4 12mm bolts that hold the compressor to the block and pull it down ever so slightly. I used a ratchet spanner for the bolt at the top L/h side as I couldn't get a socket in there. All the rest you will get with a shallow socket.
Now you should be move the full unit up, down, left and right. Were not talking a lot as you dont want to put to much pressure on the aluminium pipework and risk damaging it.

Next you want to remove the pully. Its held on with a circlip. I tired with numerous circlip pliers and non were suitable so a trip to halfords got me one by laser. I cut 20mm off the length of the handles which give me enough room to access the circlip. Once you have the circlip off you unfortunately need to bolt the Compressor back to the block with x2 bolts. This is so you can pry and hit the pully without having the compressor move and damage the pipework.

I used x2 a pry bars at 9 and 3 o clock to rock the pully side to side. It only moved about 1mm but after 20 mins I had worked it loose without damaging the pully. Unbolt the compressor again to fully remove the pully otherwise it will hit the body work.

Then remove the wiring to the electro magnet along with the circlip and slide it off.

That's the easy part done

Put your new electro magnet and circlip onto your compressor and connect up the wiring.

Then put your pully on to blocks of wood not covering the hole where the bearing is coming out of and using a socket hammer out your old bearing thats in the pully. There are some little tabs holding it securely so its quite difficult to remove but a good couple of hits with a 4lb lump hammer works a treat.

Once out clean up the face of the pully with some Emery cloth lube up the bearing and press in your new bearing.
If you damaged the pully removing or its rusty from not being used now would be a good time so hit it with some sand paper to get a nice clean flat surface.

Pit your new pully back onto your compressor and fit the circlip (use the new ones that came in the kit for the 1.8 petrol).

You can now bolt the compressor clutch back upto the block.

Fit a new shim and clutch plate. Measure the gap with a feeler guage I went for 0.55 which I think is to the higher end of the tolerance. Remove shims/add more to get the gap right. (Theres a guide on how to do this bit)

Sorry that it was so long of a read. Hopefully be useful to some people.

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk
Thank you for this, it was helpful in understanding that it's possible to carry this out without having to do a regas. My A/C wasn't engaging and after checking all the other bits and pieces, I measured the electro magnet with a multimeter which gave 0 Ohms reading. The replacement good one's reading was about 4 ohms.

I did this yesterday but I took a slightly alternative route:

I took off the front bumper (which is actually only held on with a single screw on both sides under the arch trim. The purpose of this was to get the washer fluid tank (which has a bolt securing it at ehf ront behind the bumper) out of the way to gain full access to the A/C compressor from the side - You'd need to have removed the undertrayand part of the wheel liner too. Be careful not to let the bumper drop as the lights and washer tube are connected.

It's not too hard to slip the belt off but you might have to unbolt the metal piece that holds one of the cables for the alternator depedning on what kind of spanner you use for the tensioner - I'd highly recommend a straight 19mm ring spanner if possible with an extension (coincidentally a 3/4" drive socket breaker bar will fit nicely into a 19mm open spanner which you can use as leverage). You don't need to take the belt off completely, just off the alternator is enough.

Once you have access to the washer fluid tank, it's held on with 3 10mm boltsand has a couple of connections to it which can be slipped off. There's also a tube that feeds the bonnet washer jets which is quite long and can be unclipped.

Once you move the washer tank out, you should have full acess to the A/C compressor (clutch end) and it makes this quite a lot easier.

To get the clutch plate off you can use a variety of methods but mine wasn't on too tight and an impact driver holding the clutch plate was enough. Remember to save the shim which is tiny and easy to miss.

The circlip ring is very difficult to get off and it helped to have the right tool for the job. The previous day I ordered a Knipex 46 11 A2 circlip pliers which although was nearly £20 I don't think it's possible to do it without this so don't even think about this without it! I bought mine from Amazon: KNIPEX Circlip Pliers (180 mm) 46 11 A2 SB (Product on self-service card/in a blister) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools This one fits the holes perfectly for the circlips.

My pulley was actually really easy to get off - I could pull it off with a little effort using just my hands on both sides. So no damage there and the bearing was good without any wierd sounds.

The 2nd circlip is just as hard as the first as it's so deeply inset. However, hopefully the first one would've given you a bit of practice!

Once you have freed the circlip the elctromagnet on mine was stuck on with a little bit of corrosion but a small tap sorted that out. There is a small screw which holds the ground connection (green) but it's most likely that this is going to be completely stuck and since teh compressor is still bolted on, it's hard to access. It's much each to cut and splice the connection instead which I did. The red conneciton is just a bullet connection which is easy enough to connect/disconnect.

The electro magnet has a small dimple to orientate it to the A/C compressor and the circlip goes back on (still quite tricky). The pulley is next which is slightly easier and I pushed it back on using my hands up until about 3/4 of the way where I used a small block of wood spanning evenly to knock it home. Add the circlip and then the shim(s). I cleaned up my pulley a little and the clutch plate a little while they were off. I used a feeler guage with a .50mm gap which dragged a little but was even all the way round.

The belt is ridiculously hard to put back on if you don't have a straight ring spanner to do it. I had a fear of it slipping off and me losing a finger or two. Luckily I had some help from someone to hold the tensioner in place and I could slip it back over the alternator pulley.

After that I tested it was working by starting up - as it took me another hour or two to put all the gubbins back together again. You will most likely need to get a lot of black plastic round clips as they break so easily.

In the end it wasn't as hard as I'd feared - I bought a gear puller as well for the pulley in case it was really stiff but it wasn't needed in the end and I'd highly recommend getting the washer tank out of the way as it made it so much easier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
I take it you done this on a non-type r model? On the type r you need unbolt the a\c compressor from the block to get access to the clutch plate.
 
61 - 64 of 64 Posts
Top