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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

….having a spot of bovver with my 04 I-CTDI Accord Saloon.

Its been smoking heavily , idling erratically and frequently stalling of late.

I have an ELM 327 bluetooth OBDII adaptor and run it with an Android app called 'Torque'. It has frequently popping up with P2004 IMRC control error.

When things started to deteriorate , I removed and cleaned out the MAF sensor , EGR & air intake throttle & sensors. There may have been a placebo effect of the car feeling smoother, but in reality the smoking got worse.

I recently decided to bite the bullet and bought a new IMRC ( Denso ) solenoid valve and the smoking does seem to have reduced…but still evident if I'm hard on the throttle.
But the erratic idle / stalling seems to be getting worse.

I've seen posts on this forum from people who've handed their keys ( and their blank cheque books! ) to dealers and seen root causes as extreme as sets of injectors and fuel pumps. I'm not convinced that injectors/pump have ever been a problem on any I-CTDI yet.

Now I have a new IMRC valve fitted and yet still an ailing car, I think that the stalling/ idle hiccups must be caused by an excess of air in the mix ( as with a petrol engine).

The car has had no accidents or any major overhauls, so no disturbed pipes etc
Its not whistling/whooshing , so no turbo leaks
I have noticed when running Torque OBDII app though, it seems to go into minus 1 psi vacuum on idle on the boost gauge.

Could it be :-
The little diaphragm actuator that sits on the intake throttle body? My car has nearly 240000 miles so maybe the bladder inside is a bit slack…
EGR. Though it was carefully cleaned…it was only slightly sooty. But maybe the electric solenoid actuator has failed. Any way to test???
Vacuum system leaks / faulty vacuum pump ( my brakes don't feel as sharp as my 2007 S-Max ) ? Is there any kit out there to measure vacuum and what operating range it should be ?


Any other suggestions ? People on this forum have had similar issues, but because dealers have just randomly replaced parts often at the owner's expense, its not been clear what the root cause has been. I hoped the IMRC would be the answer, but clearly there are multiple problems on my car.

Cheers.
 

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Welcome to Civinfo Ian, might be nice to introduce yourself in the newbies section first ;)

As much as it might pain you to do this, it might be time to take it to the main dealer for a professional diagnostic. An erratic idle is not an intermittent problem and I'm sure once plugged into their HDS system, it will highlight the problem pretty quickly.

My money would be on the MAFS anyway at that mileage and those symptoms.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It did go through a short spell of picking up 2 further DTC's but they disappeared.
One of them was an air intake air temp fault ( which I wondered could be hot EGR gases coming through when they shouldn't ). Can't remember the other.

I'm sure the car ( which I call 'SPUTNIK' due to it having massive miles ) has had the exhaust manifold replaced. But in a recent service my local garage did comment the back of the engine block looked very sooty. What I don't know is whether this is fresh or 'historical' soot. I can't say I noticed any smell of exhaust gas in the cabin though.
SPUTNIK's MOT is due end of June and I'm away on hol next week in my S-Max. So I'm going to ask my garage to do its MOT and asked them to look closely at the exhaust. Is there an obvious place to spot a crack in the casting if I choose to get the old socket set out??

Regarding dealers, my local dealer in Rochdale ( was called Pennine..but I think a new franchise my have taken over ) was not reputed to be much cop.
If I could get a cast iron guarantee that I could send SPUTNIK in for a one hours labour check & report diagnostic and the result pointed directly to the faulty part(s)....then I would happily book it in. But...I strongly fear it will lead to :-
"we think its the turbo"...££££...then "we think its the injectors"..££££....then "we think its the pump"....££££, then..."we think its the binomial fusion particulate separation degredation sensor:rolleyes:"
I'm prepared to take it to the Holdcroft Stafford dealer , but would want real assurances that they would hook it up and bottom out the fault without any kidology.
 

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Your assurances are there in law mate. Dealers don't always get it right, but they're not daft enough to try and rip everyone off.

If you haven't even taken it to a dealer, how can you expect any sort of an assurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the PMs Fahad, I will look up details for a new MAF and consider buying ( A newly bought IMRC valve and funds for a refurbing my nav DVD also hitting my budget right now )

Regarding your point about dealers though, please go back to this thread with two other guys experiencing probs will idling/stalling. They both have much lighter wallets and neither appeared to bottom out the problem :-

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/honda-accord/43543-diesel-low-revs-problem-3.html

I might PM them both to see whether there was a happy ending :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Hi Ian,

You can get your injectors recalibrated and see if that resolves the issue. It can be done at a Honda dealer using the HDS tablet or a reputable diesel shop with the knowhow of this procedure. I have seen this on several Accords with poor fuel filter changes the injectors 1 & 3 showing very poor flow rate.

If you get to a Honda dealer they can hook up the HDS tablet and do a data capture and it will reveal the flow rate of all the injectors at various engine loadings. The recalibration process is a fire and forget click and a subsequent data capture shows all injectors working perfectly.

Also your car has done epic mileage it would be beneficial if you could get cylinder compression reading or even better a leak down test.


Let us know how you get along.
 

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Don't think it's excess air in the mix, diesels don't work like that, the fuel is injected in at the last moment at max compression.

Black smoke sounds like the problem may be an overfuelling issue.

No point throwing money at the problem blindly replacing sensors. As has been said, a diagnosis is the way to go.
 
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