I thought in your initial post you got Brown's Engineering to do the work for you? What went wrong with that?I doubt a turning specialist can do it, unless they can dismantle the clutch. It's sprung loaded, riveted and can't be machined complete.
The machining/dismantling was quite reasonable. I think it was £75 but I can't find the receipt, the same price I paid just to have it turned in a lathe locally. CG, I think, is quite familiar with the Civic clutch, though they got something wrong on mine! Details to come...sometime.
sorry i cannot recommend anyone to date and just had a look round scarborough today without success i will keep looking though as i mentioned before they all need to see the job before commitmentHi just bought 09 civic type s 2.2 similar problems slipping at 2k higher gears I see your local to me any recommendations on decent garage to replace clutch ?
I thought in your initial post you got Brown's Engineering to do the work for you? What went wrong with that?
Personally after the terrible customer service offered by CG on their 666 clutches, I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them. There must be a way of holding the PP face solid without having to disassemble it.
Yes they did it but it was not true. They had great difficulty mounting it in their lathe.
When fitted it had worse vibration than with knackered DMF and also bad clutch judder, though the action and bite point were good with no slipping. But the juddering got worse and the vibration was driving me nuts. It also trashed the DMF in 8 months.
I spent ages going to different machine shops, drop it off, "Yes we can do it" only to get a phone call later that they couldn't.
It's like couldn't they tell me that in the first place instead of driving all over the place just to pick up another failed attempt? It was the last place that told me "no way can you machine this true as it is sprung loaded" and said they never touched the pressure plate for that reason. So even though it would fit their lathe, they would not do it.
So there I was with a brand new Type S plate and no-one to machine it, or worse, it just could not be done here, despite the Polish having success.
Then I thought I would try a proper clutch manufacturer and that's when CG said "No problem, we strip the clutch down and rebuild it." It only cost the same as just machining it anyway. And at last I was like "Yes! This sounds like the proper way to do it".
What could go wrong?
Well, you know when your at a point when you have make a decision that will take your life in one of two directions? One is sensible and involves an OEM clutch and torque limited remap, the other, well no-one's done it here yet.
Would you like to hear the rest of the saga? opcorn:
Another possibility would be to mount the assy by way of holding/gripping the inner circumference of the plate with the outermost/top of the internal jaws of the 3 jaw chuck. The assy would of course be facing with the pressure place closest to the chuck.Buri and his clan did it before so you're not the first. I wonder how they managed to skim it them
Not seeing the PP in person but making up something up to lock the PP face, then checking for any sort of runout with a DTI before and after machining is the way to go. My guess is they were sloppy with the setting up.
For those of us who use metric, 0.0015" is 0.038mm, 0.005" is 0.127mm. Yeah I'd do it in about 0.1mm cuts too to put less pressure on the face of the PP. I'd certainly clamp it up though and wouldn't even attempt machining it until it was clocked up properly.Another possibility would be to mount the assy by way of holding/gripping the inner circumference of the plate with the outermost/top of the internal jaws of the 3 jaw chuck. The assy would of course be facing with the pressure place closest to the chuck.
After clocking the face up and adjusting for zero runout (perhaps up to 1 1/2 thou'), using a l/h cutting tool it should be possible to skim the face.
Would depend very much on the chuck, tooling and the experience of the machinist. He might decide the plate is'nt held securely enough, but then again, say 5 thou' for each pass would only need 8 to remove the first mm.
but my point is the clutch is the clutch is ok again after self adjusting but it became nearly undriveable remaps have nothing to do with the self adjusting mechanism if the clutch is not slipped too much for quick getaways the dmf is the bit that the torque will destroyWould'nt it be the case running your car previously with the performance maps you had installed would be the reason your clutch is possibly 'shot'.
Members on here report high mileages on their cars without clutch bother. Again, From members' reports it seems pretty conclusive any additional load placed on the clutch (remap) will bring the working life of the clutch to a premature end. ( not really the fault of the design should an owner choose to increase the power/torque output of the motor.
Unless of course other vehicles forums' members report no subsequent issues with their cars after remapping, every possibility the owner will be no better off than if running the civic.
Understand enthusiasts' modding and tuning their cars, and fair play to them. For me, think I'd prefer to go out and buy a car built with the performance I was looking for. ( Type R springs to mind verses the diesel Civics)