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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys would anybody be able to help me with the following;

Torque settings for;

Inlet Manifold bolts to block, (using hondata heat shield gasket)

Mugen Throttle body to RRC,

I don't have the parts to hand they are waiting to be fitted at the workshop where I will be doing it, does anyone know the OD on the intake side of the mugen TB and will the HKS RSK fit or will I need a new silicon coupler?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 

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I wouldn't too much fella about those settings, just nip them up plus a tug. TBH some of the bolts holding the mani on you will be doing good to get an accurate torque on them.


I would advise swapping all but the top middle mani studs to bolts- it makes it mush easier to install the manifold. I left one central stud on to hang the gasket on to make it easier to fit etc.

OD on the airbox side would be 72-74mm or there abouts. Ive seen a few RSKs fitted to slightly larger TBs so the silicon joiner must do ok :)
 

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Is the Mugen throttle body the same size as the FD2 one?

I found that the silicon coupler that comes with the HKS RSK would go over the FD2 TB fine but the hose clamp supplied wouldn't quite but it would when I remover the extra metal ring inside it( hope this makes sense to anyone who has fitted one).
 

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Yes the Mugen TB is an FD2 one with 1mm of material removed from the inside on the airbox side- same as the spoons, Tracy sports etc etc
 

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Pretty much it maintains MAP at high rpm - where on the K series it naturally runs out.

At best it will add a couple of horse power and move the power further up the revs and most notably it makes the mid range a touch more responsive.

It depends on what mods you are running. Definitely on stock cams and most FD2 cam set ups the stock TB would be adequate.

There are much more affordable versions than the Mugen etc such as the J35 TB which is the same dimensions as the FD2 - its from USA though not Japan hence the much cheaper price
 

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Henkepenk
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I have the J35 and HKS RSK, could probably go 2-3 mm bigger before a new silicone thing would be needed :) but the clamp is the problem, just closable with the j35
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I wouldn't too much fella about those settings, just nip them up plus a tug. TBH some of the bolts holding the mani on you will be doing good to get an accurate torque on them.


I would advise swapping all but the top middle mani studs to bolts- it makes it mush easier to install the manifold. I left one central stud on to hang the gasket on to make it easier to fit etc.

OD on the airbox side would be 72-74mm or there abouts. Ive seen a few RSKs fitted to slightly larger TBs so the silicon joiner must do ok :)
Thank Stoney,

Would you be so kind as to recommend me some bolts? A link would be awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What gains do you get from a tb? Must be hardly any
As Stoney said on stock cams it wouldn't be worth doing imo, whilst I'm changing manifolds I will have the TB off so may as well change it now, I am planning cams later this year.
 

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Tom, before you fit your manifold port it so you can run a larger TB in the future. The Mugen you have at the minute will be fine with this. Just saves stripping the RRC off again.

I would go for 70mm straight through and taper to 72mm near the edges - this way there is little chance of breakthrough. Some castings are different and are thinner in places but at 70 you should be ok and the Taper to 72mm is the size of the skunk2 etc and will taper in nicely with the 70 bore.

Off the top my head pal the thread is ** and 30mm long shaft but the best bet is to pop one off and check. just double nut the studs to extract them from the head
 

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For reference

From the Honda manual torque settings are 22nm/16 lbf-ft for bolts/nuts that hold inlet manifold to block.
Same goes for TB to manifold.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Tom, before you fit your manifold port it so you can run a larger TB in the future. The Mugen you have at the minute will be fine with this. Just saves stripping the RRC off again.

I would go for 70mm straight through and taper to 72mm near the edges - this way there is little chance of breakthrough. Some castings are different and are thinner in places but at 70 you should be ok and the Taper to 72mm is the size of the skunk2 etc and will taper in nicely with the 70 bore.

Off the top my head pal the thread is ** and 30mm long shaft but the best bet is to pop one off and check. just double nut the studs to extract them from the head
Thanks Stoney,

I will have a look into porting not done it before and not 100% sure about attacking my manifold with a dremel without doing some research first. Do you mean M-8 bolts? Is the block is ally would steel bolts be too hard and end up stripping or threading? I can get stainless or mild steel m-8 bolts in almost any length from work.
 

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Mild steel would be grand or a plated bolt would be ideal

Engine and block are alloy - don't ask me the composition as I have no clue :D
 
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