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i have read that the AEM suffers from a flatspot low down in the revs, i understand a custom map will be needed to sort this but does the basic group N map sort this or will this problem still occur?
also read that the engine light comes on with this kit? with a flashpro is it a case of turning the light off?
or does it need the custom tune to do this?
thanks...
 

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i have read that the AEM suffers from a flatspot low down in the revs, i understand a custom map will be needed to sort this but does the basic group N map sort this or will this problem still occur?
also read that the engine light comes on with this kit? with a flashpro is it a case of turning the light off?
or does it need the custom tune to do this?
thanks...
With changed intake and group N you will get AFR on a level of 10:1 so very rich and you will start to receive errors due to this problem. By the way AEM short is very very poor intake for this car (FN2)
 

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Group N should run it no different to the stock map as the AFM calibration is exactly the same.

The difference is the VTC and ignition tables
 

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i had one on with a group n ecu ... loads of flat spots...management lights on etc... get rid of it! i did!
 

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I bought an aem shortram and sent it back because it is not made for the fn2 it made for the civic si .You can get it to fit with but its alot of fiddling about .Your better off paying the extra and getting the hks rsk.
 

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I have one on my car. It was fitted by the previous owner. Yes, it has flatspots, especially when you are accelerating hard from (2500-3000 rpm). Apart from it my car is stock and I did never got the check engine light (in about 3 years and 30000 km). But as all previous guys said it's the worst kit for the CTR. If you have the money just buy an HKS, CPL CAI or even a Gruppe M box and throw away that piece of crap.
 

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Lol... that's like going from a Fiat Punto to a Ferrari 458... nice one ;)
 

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Get a cpl racing cai the hks rsk is crap and suffers heat soak.. it might make power on a dyno with the bonnet up and fan on but you dont drive with your bonnet up. aem is also not that great suffers heat soak.
 

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Get a cpl racing cai the hks rsk is crap and suffers heat soak.. it might make power on a dyno with the bonnet up and fan on but you dont drive with your bonnet up. aem is also not that great suffers heat soak.
Or an Injen, Gruppe M or tegiwa are other options.
 

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Get a cpl racing cai the hks rsk is crap and suffers heat soak.. it might make power on a dyno with the bonnet up and fan on but you dont drive with your bonnet up. aem is also not that great suffers heat soak.
The HKS isnt crap! and it doesnt suffer from heatsoak in nearly all conditions, especially when driving! Actually the HKS is a very good kit with a great bulit in velocity stack for air flow. Which I beleive the CPL doesnt have.. On a stock car the HKS is one of the best options, dyno proven. Loxy's car was tested recently at 260bhp, he runs a HKS RSK and a heatshield. You cant make those figures NA without it being a decent piece of kit.
 

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On a happy dyno you can.. Lets. Not start that we all lnow it wont make tht power if it went to say abbey motorsports dyno or sumo power. The cpl kit makes more power then any kit arguement over i have seen back to back tests... On a stock car a hks makes 2hp more ! ... Tune a stock car on a flash pro then take stock airbox off and put a hks on it and retune u will see next to nothing.. Do the same with a cpl kit ;) then tell me which is best.
 

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I can see where Karl is coming from though... As at a standstill intake temps will rise more with an open filter.. However once the car is moving the air passing through the engine bay soon drops engine bay temps... So bit of a double edged sword to be honest...
 

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I can see where Karl is coming from though... As at a standstill intake temps will rise more with an open filter.. However once the car is moving the air passing through the engine bay soon drops engine bay temps... So bit of a double edged sword to be honest...
Thank you :) but just remember

we also have more air lower to the floor and not only that no chance of heat soak behind the bumper.. Ok the cars going the air passes threw a warm radiator so warms up then over a warm engine and gearbox.. Heat rises off the gearbox aswell and warms the intake.. Then its right next to a nearly 200degree exhaust manifold... Most of the cold air goes under the car and the hot air rises around the hks filter... Trust me get a thermo gauge and point it in that area even with the bonnet up and a fan on then without a fan point it at the cpl racing cai... Mate i will do you a data log if you like of my intake temps with a cpl kit dwn the road at 30mph for 1 mile and someone do the same with a hks and upload the logs
 

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Get a cpl racing cai the hks rsk is crap and suffers heat soak.. it might make power on a dyno with the bonnet up and fan on but you dont drive with your bonnet up. aem is also not that great suffers heat soak.
The CPL may well work the best, but it looks naff, like someone with a City and Guilds in Welding knocked it up after 10 pints down the pub.
 
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