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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

Last summer I discovered that the air con in my 2.2 wasn't working. Got it regassed and it was fine for two days before it stopped again. It turned out to be a leaking condensor, so replaced that, gassed again and I was good for the rest of the summer. I read on here that to maximise the lifetime ideally the system should be left on "Auto" so the air con still gets used and seals don't dry out, so I've done that ever since.

With the lockdown I haven't been driving often at all and yesterday was the first hot day I've been in the car since last year. I stuck the AC to 16 and set off, only to notice after a few minutes I was still having hot ait blasted in my face. This afternoon I've done the following:
  • Check the relay is working - It clicks when AC is turned on and off and appears to be working
  • Visually checked the condensor - Cannot see any wet patches
  • Visually checked the compressor clutch - It spins when the AC is turned on and stops when turned off
    (Video shows AC ON to AC OFF state)
  • Visually checked front (radiator?) fans - When AC is turns on they both turn on and stop when turned off
    (Video shows AC OFF to AC ON state)
  • Checked pressure in system - Using a guage from a regas kit (on the LOW pressure side with the engine off) I appear to be holding about 65PSI if I'm reading it correctly
    312889
  • Checked outside temperature is not reading as 0 or incorrectly
  • 312890
Despite all this, the air being blown is not chilled even with the system set to LO and fans on full blast. I have tried in both the Auto mode and manually enabling AC and turning the fans up.

I've looked through several historical air con posts on here and can't find any solutions that match what I'm seeing here. Does anybody have any suggestions for further tests I could try, or have you seen this yourself?

I can't seem to carry out the climate control diagnostics as I have an aftermarket stereo and the Connects2 bits seem to be messing with the display and ability to cycle sensors when I run it. It results in my temperatures displaying as "15, 16, 17, LO, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29" like in this thread until I disconnect and reconnect the battery.
 

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This seems very similar to my problem...

I have a 1.8 petrol with a seemingly operational AC system all over, only issue being, the lack of cold air. I don't have a gauge like yours though, that would be useful. Here is my thread in case you are wondering.

How do you run the climate control diagnostics?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I checked the pressure with the engine running and it was much lower. Topped it up to around 35psi while running and back to cold. Still unsure where the potential leak is though. Still holding after a few days.

Climate control diagnostics are in the wiki I think, I had to use an archived copy since the website redesign: Climate Control - Civinfo Wiki
 

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Thanks, I managed to run them. From previous threads, it seems the condenser is often the offending part if it's leaking. Probably extremely difficult to detect without dye though.
 

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Yeah, I just noticed that. It seems like a specialist might be needed for this as it could be anything really. ACs are such a pain in the rear end to maintain...
 

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I have a similar problem on my GF's 2009 2.2iCTDi. All the usual things checked, fan and clutch engage and compressor turns. Outside temperature shows correctly (20C today). No cooling whatsoever. Low pressure line checked with an STP pressure gauge from Halfords as follows:

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The STP gauge says Filled = 25-40psi, Alert =40-65 psi and Warning =65-150psi unlike the OP's gauge but values displayed are very similar.

So, everything seems absolutely fine but zero cooling. The compressor is obviously doing something, but maybe not enough and needs replacing? Alternatively I wondered if a minor front end collision might have damaged the front aircon rad and crimped a pipe.

Any ideas as this problem did occur first a few years ago and seemed to fix itself?
 

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Yes, I have see your preceding sentence 😍 Have a look see.
Thanks. I do need to take a better look.
The reason I am not sure that is the problem is that our local Honda dealership did something on the issue after the repair and it seemed to work.
I've been doing some more research and discovered that some systems have a valve before the evaporator. Do you happen to know if the Civic has such an electrically operated valve as that would explain the non-circulation?
 

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Also saw another video where the aircon wouldn't work because the pressure was too high. In that case he dropped the running low pressure to 20 psi and it worked. Is there a high pressure switch as well as low?
 

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I found a couple of useful videos. The first shows a problem of charge pressure too high and the second shows a detailed analysis and replacement of expansion valve.

The first one didn't fix my problem, and I notice the low pressure line decreases as the engine revs increase and dropping to zero at high RPM but not fluctuating.

My guess is a failed Expansion Valve in the closed position. I'm trying to find a high and low gauge on Amazon with the quick connect fittings (or adapters for one I have found) to check the high pressure side and confirm that the compressor is OK.

. A/C pressure too high preventing A/C working

. A/C Diagnosis - Sticking Expansion Valve.
 
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