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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have read thru the forums how great the RSK and Gruppe M are but in general i didn't found too much of real dyno tests and if there were any they were done on more modified cars with different maps, headers, exhausts..., so in general i didn't found helpful test of induction kits on cars which are otherwise stock.

I was originally thinking that i will go for the Japspeed short ram and will make some heat shield sheet steel but after i read about this intake over here and realized how crappy i have deiced that i will not waste my money on it and either that i will modify my stock airbox(remove the fins inside and polish it) + some filter, like pipercross or KN.

From what I know and from what is the general experience the original airbox performs much better then the short rams with low/zero heat soak, especially in the setups like K20 have where the filter is ridiculously close to the engine.

Bottom line, is it worth going for the RSK or any other short ram in terms of performance(in a stock car)? The sounds is really nice but i dont want to spend bigger amount of money just for a fancy sounding tube...which does nothing or even worse takes the ponies out.
 

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No noticeable performance difference when I had the rsk on a stock car. Didn't like the noise so it only lasted a few days until I took it off.
 

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HKS RSK without a map won't make noticeable gains.

It will make some gains with a map though. Heat soak is a small issue, but once car moving this is reduced.

Standard airbox won't heat soak, but less gains when mapped. It is restrictive but if you remove the fins and intake piping which is narrow and complicated then this should be better. Large intake piping that goes towards the fog lights is popular.

Unmapped it just comes down to whether you want the sound of an open filter IMO.
 

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Unmapped HKS will give you very small gains, but it will make a difference. Throttle reaction will be quicker, car will have slightly more torque in low revs and small flat spot that CTR have on standard airbox will be reduced and slightly higher, which improves driveability. Noise on crossover will be intimidating for first couple of days/weeks, which is why i wasn't sure if i like it or not, but now having this fitted for half a year i wouldn't imagine going for something quieter :) Heatsoak... well, in Czech Republic you might experience this, i don't know, but being in England i didn't notice it. Maybe during British summer can be a problem... all three days of it i mean :laugh2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok,

I think i will polish the airbox and add some panel since i dont want remap now, seen the guide how to add the ram instead of the horn, will do that later on.

Now, which panel to take? Wanted to go for pipercross but then i have see they are falling apart, do luck will be hard to get here in cz i guess i would have to order is from sumo, is it worth it?
 

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You could of course buy a CPL CAI, or a Hybrid racing CAI, which will provide gains even without a remap. Would take several hours to install though and ideally by a garage if you're not very competent. My Hybrid racing CAI has been modified with a smaller (but still large) filter that sits below the headlights but nowhere near low enough to be at risk of hydro lock. I use a hydro sock anyways ;)
 

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CAI tend to leave a horrible flatspot unmapped, RSK can give a flatspot unmapped around 2.5-3k for some (myself included) others seem to not have the issue. The RSK has a very distinctive noise however.

A closed box like Tegiwa / Mugen give good gains but again need to be mapped and the intake piping (before the box) removing and replacing with a scoop. Smoother airbox may also have similar affect but heard mixed results.

Gruppe M is a good middle ground, it's restrictive when pushing beyond 250 BHP but no flatspot unmapped and nice sound on stock car albeit MUCH quieter than the RSK. If you have a catback you probably won't hear the Gruppe M over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok i just finished cutting and polishing my airbox and fitted pipercross panel and realized that the black paint is comming of the metal mesh from the clear/engine side of the filter. Is that normal? Have doubts letting my engine breath that....
 

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What part is that?
There should not be mesh after the filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What part is that?
There should not be mesh after the filter?
I meant clean side not clear :) phone typo..

The filtet fits but on the clean side after the filter there is a metal mesh which is loosing the paint, probably due heavy oiling of the filter.
 

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Is it a foam filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yes it is, there apper to be two layers of foam and above them is a metal mesh which is glued to the rubber seal which goes around the filter

Its pipercross PP1760

I think the oil eaten thru the paint

The issue i face now is that i have disassambled my induction and i would like to fit a new filter which i dont have :( simce i not sure if i can put in this one, dont want to mess up the the sensor, throtle body and the engine...

Tried to vacume the filter but since the paint is sticky its staying on the mesh but barely.....it at one point it will come off...



This it how it looks like including the paint coming off the mesh: https://imgur.com/a/TCPg8

.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'd replace the filter with a K&N, that's what i got with my Mugen box.
You are the second person which told me the same thing, i think i will go also fro the obvious and tested. I wanted to try something new which will give nice sound to the engine but now i see pipercross is just a crap, other had issues with it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Polishing went well, but pipercross is really utter crap. After i read some more forums i realized people are having issues with this filters either they completly desintegrate and destroy the intake or they let too much oil on the MAF sensor and screw the sensor....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Last update, everything went well. Car now sounds amazing, throttle response is much sharper. Can recommend to anybody.
 

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Short ram gives hot air at the intake = less power. Period.
Even with shield.
CAI loses power at high speed. (turbulence and low pressure)
Best solution is the airbox with duct.

All tested.
 

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Short ram gives hot air at the intake = less power. Period.
...but unless you are fighting for every 10th of a second on a track it does not make a noticeable different while driving. Surely will make a difference when on rolling road, but during normal driving?
I have ragged my car on mountain roads when on holiday in Poland when it was hot as hell (25-32 degrees) and didn't noticed any power loss at all. Yes - intake pipe was pretty warm, but even after checking that and hiving in mind all the opinion i didn't manage to experience heat soak... and i was trying, i was trying hard to make an excuse for myself to buy gruppe M :grin2: Will stay with my HKS RSK:wink3:
 

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Short ram gives hot air at the intake = less power. Period.
Even with shield.
CAI loses power at high speed. (turbulence and low pressure)
Best solution is the airbox with duct.

All tested.
HKS RSK which is a short ram does give gains when mapped, proven by tuners too. Intake air temp is higher, but on the move they aren't too much higher, and the increased airflow makes up for some heat.

Both TDI North and Eurospec back this up, they certainly don't say it's the best though, but better than restrictive standard box.

I didn't think CAI lost power at high speed?

Standard box plus duct is a good option also, I agree there. For the money it's great. Using the duct I'm not sure when it would become restrictive and therefore a bigger tegiwa or mugen box would help?
 

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I can't imagine a HR intake losing any power, it literally sits right behind the fog scoop so the faster you go the more air is getting into it! Mine isn't best placed for cold air feed but it is at least under the engine and on the right side of the engine bay so it's not going to be taking all the hot air in. Despite the term CAI, it doesn't mean it's actually 'cold' as we imagine. Even with silicone there will be some heat soak especially with my supercharger but it's all about getting the IATs as low as possible! Normally this is measured against ambient temp and I think anything slightly over ambient is considered to be good. Also remember HSK on a dyno is mapped with the engine bay/Bonnet open. It'll produce higher IATs than any CAI but the heat soak is more of a temporary issue that would only occur when you're in traffic but then would disappear once you're moving at speed.


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