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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys

I have a Honda Civic Type R 2007 model with the K20Z4FN2 engine.

I am trying to install an aftermarket radio and made a mess somewhere. The following happened and I have no idea where to start searching:

I removed the factory head unit and got a new double din face plate and a single din cd front loader. I need to know the colours of the direct +12V wire, as well as the wire to switch on the radio when I turn the key 1 click in the ignition.

During my attempts I got to the point where the ignition makes no sound when I insert the key (nor does anything on the dash switch on), the immobilizer / alarm /central locking does not even work now. I can press the buttons on the key, but nothing happens. Even the speedometer does not switch on at all. Only when I turn the key to the 2nd click, the speedometer display turns and all the other electronics switch on and I can start the car without having to switch on/off the alarm/immobilizer. Obviously I disabled the alarm/immobilizer in some way. Could it be a fuse/s that blew during my attempt or did I blow some electronic module of the car?

Or is there a way to program the electronics again so everything works again as it should? When I switch off the car, remove the key from the ignition, no buttons on the key work at all.

What did I blow up in my stupidity?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Farqui

Can you maybe point me to where that fuse might be located? Under the hood or be the driver side under the dash board?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any idea which colour wires I must use for the direct +12V, as well as the remote wire from the ignition to switch on the radio after I turn the key 1 click?
 

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Yep, get a multimeter with 2 metal probes.

The fuses can be checked using 'continuity' mode without having to remove them as they have 2 tiny metal exposed areas just for this purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have tested every single fuse in the car now and everyone works perfect. Still no display can be seen or beep sound is heard when I insert the key in the ignition slot. Only after position 2 does the display comes on. The factory radio also does NOT switch on at all. I have checked and all the radio wires are connected to its original position
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Under the bonnet and under the dash at the driver side (right hand side of driver's right leg) is there any other fuses somewhere I don't know about?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Full issues I have:

When the car is locked/unlocked the buttons on the key do not open or lock the doors at all. When I open the driver door with the key, no alarm goes off at all. When I insert the key into the ignition, no beep sound can be heard, nor does the center part of the speedometer display, shows anything. When I turn the key from position 0 to position one, no lights on the speedometer display comes on. When I turn the key to the second position, all the lights on the speedometer display comes on. The green key light flashes for 1 - 2 seconds and then switched off. Still no alarm, immobilizer, central locking or radio turns on. I can start the car 100% and drive around with it, and the alarm. immobilizer, central locking and radio still do not work whatsoever. I can lock the car manually and that is it.

Did I perhaps lose the programming of the alarm, immobilizer, central locking and radio by some silly way? As I said, all the fuses all over the car works perfectly. None were blown
 

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I wonder if you've knocked or disconnected something during the new radio install.

If you can't find anything it may need some proper diagnostic from Honda or an auto electrician.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, I have checked every single plug and connection as well. I have disconnected the battery too for half a day, and even used my spare key to try and find the fault. It looks like I might have to visit Honda. As soon as I know what I did, I will post in on here for reference purposes should anybody else ever have the same issues
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I found the solution for the problem I experienced: It was in fact a 7.5A fuse under the bonnet that caused all of the above mentioned issues.
 

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It’s just because there is a chance that some electronics may interfere with the reading, or even a short circuit down somewhere... ideally the continuity test should not be fooled by those but I had my cheapo multimeter fool me before, when installing a radio...


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