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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Just started coming on today.

My oil was very low and I just filled it up, but the light remains on, even before I've started the engine.

Any way to reset the light or get the car to tell me what it means?
 

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Kennoway Man
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611 Posts
Engine management.. Go get a garage to read the code.. Did you overflow the oil?.. Check the leven again..


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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, just ordered one.

I topped up the oil after the light came on but it didn't clear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Correct :)

I just went out to disconnect the battery to clear the fault and see if it comes back, and the terminals are really amazingly corroded.

I wonder if it's just related to a low voltage from the battery...
 

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Whistlin' on a Tuesday...
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1,165 Posts
Correct :)

I just went out to disconnect the battery to clear the fault and see if it comes back, and the terminals are really amazingly corroded.

I wonder if it's just related to a low voltage from the battery...
It is certainly a good idea to clean them and grease them to look to possibly eliminate that but I wouldn't think that would have been the original reason for the engine management light coming on.
 

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Whistlin' on a Tuesday...
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1,165 Posts
Just started coming on today.

My oil was very low and I just filled it up, but the light remains on, even before I've started the engine.

Any way to reset the light or get the car to tell me what it means?
First of all, before you saw the engine management light come on, did you get a yellow oil can light come on, followed by a red oil can light?

Or did the engine management light come on before any oil top-up took place?

Also, what does the manual say about disconnecting the battery to reset warning lamps?
 

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Registered
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One of the sensors has gone I would imagine. Not cheap.
I had this myself, if you disconnect the battery it will clear it for a while but not long.
 

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Premium Member
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664 Posts
Correct :)

I just went out to disconnect the battery to clear the fault and see if it comes back, and the terminals are really amazingly corroded.

I wonder if it's just related to a low voltage from the battery...
disconnecting battery seldom switches off eml lights,,, if eml was produced by a one off fault like intermittent lose wire,,, then after about 25 on off's of the key they will reset aslong as the fault is no longer present.. what ever you do dont either disconnect the battery when engine is running, or after removing battery touch the terminals together,,, this can/will cause a power spike in to the ecu's on car and cause loads of damage... if light is still on after 25 or so on and off's then the fault is still present and the only way is a fault code reader... but some cheap fault code readers will not read P-codes,, these are main dealer only codes,,, and will need a better reader...
 

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Premium Member
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Do not disconnect the battery.

You do not know what this DTC means and resetting it means getting rid a clue to a possible issue.



This only shows MICU errors not ECU errors
the eml codes will stay stored in ecu the only way to clear them is with the software to read and reset,,, trouble with removing battery leads when car is in fault stage,,, it is possible to spike the ecu,,, i done a few years on with RAC and we had a seminar on the risks of spiking ecu's and how to prevent it,, or i should say lowering the risk of doing it... if a car has a flat battery and you jump start it with leads off another vehicle,,, they instructed us all to switch on headlights of the flat battery vehicle,,, because this will direct any over currant away from the 5v rail the ecu and all sensor run off... also never touch the neg and positive lead together after battery has been removed, or the positive terminal to the body of car,,, also can wreck a ecu, some circuit's have capacitor's and store electricity that can also spike ecu...
 

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Had the same light come on in my 1.8 I vtec. Had a tester connected to it and I was a faulty o2 sensor 1. Also changed the water temp cooler sensor since it was dead as well. Two known faults on the 1.8.

Not cheap to replace but worth it. Get a obd2 reader connected and see which fault code is stored in the ECU.
 
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