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Discussion Starter #1
Bought my 2006 1.8 EX about a month back, and it's got a couple of intermittent faults that I'm wondering are indicative of battery issues.

I'd say 90% of the time it unlocks and starts fine, but now and then (particularly if I'm using it first thing) I tend to get the following:

Radio key won't open the car (normally works fine). I have to unlock it manually, endure the alarm for a little while, and then the radio function works fine to lock/unlock/reset the alarm.
EPS warning light stays on after starting. A quick shut down/restart seems to rectify this
ABS/VSA/Check System warnings illuminate, but disappear after a second or two

With the EPS and ABS issues, it's either one or the other - never both at once.

I think I've read somewhere that this is indicative of the battery not containing enough charge - is that right? Or is there perhaps something more worrisome/expensive at play here?
 

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I have a 2014 1.6 Diesel SR - had it for around a year, not an issue with it till the last few weeks - The only similar symptom was the unlocking issue - low mileage 30,000

Did not realise that there was a more serious problem till it switched the engine off (fuel saver) at a major traffic lights at the top of a hill - only just had enough juice in the battery to get the hazards on

That's the day that I found out that you can actually bumpstart a Diesel Civic going backwards down a hill (Not recommended!) Took it on a long spin but conked out again an hour later

Got a new Battery fitted (almost 70 quid) but it has been perfect ever since
 

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How old are the batteries in the key fob and in the car?

When I had a 2006 1.8 ishift I got the ABS/VSA warning every morning, replaced the car battery and it went away for a while, but eventually came back. What I found was deadlocking the car from the key fob overnight stopped the warning.

Never had the EPS warning
 

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You don't need a battery in the key fob to use the car... battery is for the remote locking.

I'd change the battery fob first, it costs £1 / €1... then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You don't need a battery in the key fob to use the car... battery is for the remote locking.

I'd change the battery fob first, it costs £1 / €1... then go from there.
Two apologies:

1) I accidentally posted this in 9th Gen, not 8th Gen - is anyone able to move this?
2) When I say 'battery' I mean the car battery rather than the one in the key fob. Once I've managed to unlock the car and stop the alarm, the fob works fine. I'm wondering if the initial inability to unlock using the fob, and the warnings, are indicative of a low charge in the main battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A quick update.

I took the car down to my local Wilco this morning for a 'free battery test', which came back with no issues - I'd assume they'd flag up even the slightest issue given it's essentially a sales tool?

I've also tested the battery myself with a multimeter I've picked up. Resting voltage was 12.6v, and with the engine on it was presenting 14.6v, which would suggest all is in order. That said, I'd just been out for a run beforehand, so I'll test it again from cold in the morning - will I be looking for 12.6v again after it's sat overnight?
 

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Just be aware the Bluetooth module in th EX goes faulty and drains the battery. Mine was going flat in 2 days of no use so I took the module out. So the battery may be ok on test, but there could still be a current drain with the ignition off.

Does your Bluetooth work ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just be aware the Bluetooth module in th EX goes faulty and drains the battery. Mine was going flat in 2 days of no use so I took the module out. So the battery may be ok on test, but there could still be a current drain with the ignition off.

Does your Bluetooth work ok?
Cheers Robbie, Bluetooth seems to be working fine at the moment. I’m guessing there might be a parasitic load somewhere, so I’ll test for that tomorrow as well.

Am I right in thinking that the EPS/VSA/ABS failing to initially activate might be down to the battery not having enough power to both start the engine and the various ancillary systems?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So... I tested the battery this morning, with the car having stood overnight. It returned a charge of 12.2v, so there’s obviously some discharging going on, or at least an inability to hold charge.

I tested for drain when turned off, and there’s a 0.5a draw on the battery with the car shut down. Pulling fuses revealed fuse 16 (back up) to be the culprit.

I guess there are two questions off the back of this:

A) Is the 0.5a draw normal?
B) Should fuse 16 be drawing on the battery when the vehicle is switched off?

Cheers!
 

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0.5A is way too high when the car is off.

Which fuse box are you checking fuse 16? I suspect it's the underbonnet one as fuse 16 controls the MICU, which is a known battery drain when it fails. Have a search of the forum for MICU.
 
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