Best Discs and Pads?
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
I think I’ll go Pagid discs and Pagid pads. I’ve heard Brembo don’t make their own pads. I usually go mintex but aren’t they the same company as Pagid? TMD friction?
Anyone had an experience with mtec brake discs?
They use Mintex pads on my company car they are good pads seem to last a long time.
ShameI can’t seem to find them Akebono pads in the UK. Any good Ceramic alternatives to the Akebono pads?
They use Mintex pads on my company car they are good pads seem to last a long time.
ShameI can’t seem to find them Akebono pads in the UK. Any good Ceramic alternatives to the Akebono pads?
I had Mtec grooved and dimpled discs all round on my previous car, a Golf R32. Can't say I would get those exact ones again, they were quite loud even when not under braking and didn't inspire much confidence for regular driving. The grooved or drilled only ones should be ok though.
I currently have EBC Ultimax Slotted discs with their Yellowstuff pads on the Type R. No complaints on these and have heard good things about the Greenstuff pads (less dust), but never used them myself. The discs are a bit steep, and sadly mine have warped a bit. So i'll be replacing them with some Mtecs in the near future as they are about half the price of EBC! I probably won't change off EBC pads though.
Joined
·
438 Posts
I've used Mtec discs on my last few cars and they've been great, just wish they did a plan disc. I've always gone for the coated option and it's been superb, never had any rust outside of where the pads contact.
Joined
·
3,068 Posts
i had m-tec on my 2.2 drilled and grooved done a lot of miles no problem
i also have a full set waiting to go on my 1.6 gen 9 went for same but got them gold coated this time as good deal at time
i didnt go for the mintex pads as they are not what they were years ago
im led to believe from a mate in the trade mintex pads are now classed as no better than budget pads
years ago they were the benchmark
i went for brembo pads from a different supplier but not fitted yet
Joined
·
5,738 Posts
Yes I had them on my Gen8. The fronts were fine but by year 2 and 15K the rears looks liked they had been on for 10 years and 100k. I wouldnt go with them again. I had mintex on them with no issues.
Joined
·
51 Posts
I work for ECP also lol
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
I used Tarox Strada front and rear pads. A bit expensive but I find them excellent, I had TRW pads on before and they sucked like the ones that came with the car which were MTEC or some other budget brand. Would have tried EBC YellowStuff but their sales fed me with rubbish so I stayed away.
Discs are TRW all round which claim to be "coated" but the non contact bits have rusted to hell already. Had Mintex rear on my other car which is garaged and sees no rain, oxidised quickly. The fronts still look nice, they might be Pagid discs but can't find the receipt
Discs are TRW all round which claim to be "coated" but the non contact bits have rusted to hell already. Had Mintex rear on my other car which is garaged and sees no rain, oxidised quickly. The fronts still look nice, they might be Pagid discs but can't find the receipt
I just replaced my OEM front pads with Brembo (I kept the OEM disc as they were not that worn).
Man do they stop the wheels from turning. It’s actually a little too much for my taste, almost difficult to brake lightly..
I’m running Pagid pads + OEM discs on the rear. Didn’t feel much change from OEM when I changed them. They took a bit of running in though.
I would try EBC yellowstuff next time I think… I’ve heard good recommendations. But I could go for either Brembo/Pagid/EBC depending on price and availability when I need them
Theoretically you need better friction in a pad if you go for drilled/slotted discs, which might explain why the Brembo pads have extra grip on a plain disc.
I’ve heard people complaining about noise from drilled/slotted discs so never had the courage myself to go for these..
I got the EBC coated discs on another car a few years ago, the rear ones have started to rust, so I guess the coating only temporarily improves the look.
And a little tip for running in new discs: Try to avoid stopping the car completely with warm new discs. Try to always keep it rolling a little during bed-in. This will prevent pad material to build up in a single spot on the disc, which could make it feel like you have a warped disc.
Man do they stop the wheels from turning. It’s actually a little too much for my taste, almost difficult to brake lightly..
I’m running Pagid pads + OEM discs on the rear. Didn’t feel much change from OEM when I changed them. They took a bit of running in though.
I would try EBC yellowstuff next time I think… I’ve heard good recommendations. But I could go for either Brembo/Pagid/EBC depending on price and availability when I need them
Theoretically you need better friction in a pad if you go for drilled/slotted discs, which might explain why the Brembo pads have extra grip on a plain disc.
I’ve heard people complaining about noise from drilled/slotted discs so never had the courage myself to go for these..
I got the EBC coated discs on another car a few years ago, the rear ones have started to rust, so I guess the coating only temporarily improves the look.
And a little tip for running in new discs: Try to avoid stopping the car completely with warm new discs. Try to always keep it rolling a little during bed-in. This will prevent pad material to build up in a single spot on the disc, which could make it feel like you have a warped disc.
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
Problem with brakes is there's no standard to quantify how they are to the individual user. So many variables and preferences. Doesn't help that there's no way of really saying how good a pad is at different points like a slight touch or a full on stop etc
I've always used non drilled/slotted discs as I think they just compromise the disc strength and wear pads faster.
Refer to the instructions on the pads, some hotter pads need a specific breaking in process like lots of hard stops, others can just be driven on gently.
The Tarox stuff are really progressive but bite well when needed but I certainly paid the price. There aren't actually many performance pads on the market for non FN2 Civics.
I've always used non drilled/slotted discs as I think they just compromise the disc strength and wear pads faster.
Refer to the instructions on the pads, some hotter pads need a specific breaking in process like lots of hard stops, others can just be driven on gently.
The Tarox stuff are really progressive but bite well when needed but I certainly paid the price. There aren't actually many performance pads on the market for non FN2 Civics.
Joined
·
125 Posts
Thanks for the feedback, how long have you had your rotors and pads on? Just for context the 'warping' of rotors is generally unseen, and it is more often pad deposits or uneven wear creating a lip (generally seen when changing pads and keeping rotors), both of which can feel like warping under braking. Pad deposits can be removed by turning rotors using a pro cut lathe at your local garage, or often can go over time with continued use. just something to consider
Joined
·
125 Posts
The current method is to use the black thermic coating to prevent rusting on all areas of rotor that are not within the pad sweep area, as the pad is used it will remove the coating from the friction area which can then rust, but this rust will also be removed by the pad during use.I just replaced my OEM front pads with Brembo (I kept the OEM disc as they were not that worn).
Man do they stop the wheels from turning. It’s actually a little too much for my taste, almost difficult to brake lightly..
I’m running Pagid pads + OEM discs on the rear. Didn’t feel much change from OEM when I changed them. They took a bit of running in though.
I would try EBC yellowstuff next time I think… I’ve heard good recommendations. But I could go for either Brembo/Pagid/EBC depending on price and availability when I need them
Theoretically you need better friction in a pad if you go for drilled/slotted discs, which might explain why the Brembo pads have extra grip on a plain disc.
I’ve heard people complaining about noise from drilled/slotted discs so never had the courage myself to go for these..
I got the EBC coated discs on another car a few years ago, the rear ones have started to rust, so I guess the coating only temporarily improves the look.
And a little tip for running in new discs: Try to avoid stopping the car completely with warm new discs. Try to always keep it rolling a little during bed-in. This will prevent pad material to build up in a single spot on the disc, which could make it feel like you have a warped disc.
Your tip on voiding pad deposits (warping to most) is completely correct, when brakes are hot it can be detrimental to then park and apply the brakes, cool down periods will be very beneficial.
if you do happen to choose us, remember you can get 10% off through our recommended distributors through the links in our signature below using code FORUM10USER
I've had them on since October 2020 and done about 7000 miles (mostly low speed, some motorway). I only say "warped" as it was driven by someone with rally experience, and that's what he said. I didn't know it could just be pad deposits. I'll get it checked when it's next in the garage. Thanks for the info!Thanks for the feedback, how long have you had your rotors and pads on? Just for context the 'warping' of rotors is generally unseen, and it is more often pad deposits or uneven wear creating a lip (generally seen when changing pads and keeping rotors), both of which can feel like warping under braking. Pad deposits can be removed by turning rotors using a pro cut lathe at your local garage, or often can go over time with continued use. just something to consider
Best discs and pads? For what purpose. Pootling, track, fast road?
so so many answers not to be facetious
so so many answers not to be facetious
Joined
·
125 Posts
Warping is a general term used or a misconception by many people, I myself would also assume so much before working for EBC Brakes as the words 'warped rotors' was so often spoken. Truth is, if the brakes get extremely hot and are then held on the rotor for some time, part of the pad gets deposited onto the rotor and this is the shuddering/ vibrating feeling when braking.
It is advised to not park the car straight away after hot brake use, especially at the track in between laps/ after the session, and if possible to try to let them cool before applying the parking brake.
For the most part, continued use will remove these hot spots and a lathe will certainly freshen the face of the rotor, and all vibration should be gone. Hope this helps
Joined
·
968 Posts
I just brought front pagid pads and discs for my fn2 daily driver, like you no track use. They seem to be fine, Halfords for the discs £26 each, then I found the pads for around the same price from carpartsforless, just over £80 all together. The pads fitted a lot better than the brembo pads that i had in before.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
