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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.

I'm not interested on spending money on aftermarket solutions for music in the car, however in my experience playing with the equaliser settings on a lot of car systems can improve the audio experience no end.

Does anybody have any decent set ups for the bass, mid, treble and fader? Most car systems need a tweak to the front.

I looked on google and there weren't many options. On my Golf system there was plenty of discussion.
 

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Race Taxi Pilot
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Not a lot that can be done on the OEM HU + speaker combination, but turning bass up +2 or +3 at lower volumes might help, if memory serves me. All other settings "in the middle".

Maybe not want you want to hear, but many people go double din and/or upgrade speakers - or install a dash amp + speakers, like myself.

OEM unit is really that bad.
 

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I agree the OEM head unit really is that bad I'm afraid. I had intended to just fit an xcarlink but after trying all settings gave up and fitted a double din unit, the difference is unbelievable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Usually I'd be fine with changing HU. But it is not a simple £60 job in the Civic unfortunately. Ah well will just have to put up with it I guess.
 

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It's the lack of power that's the problem, £60 worth of amplifier and LOC's will certainly transform it.
 

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Achtung Owls!
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163 Posts
Oh yeah, OEM head unit is awful. Definitely replace the HU, and add a sub. This gives you a vast improvement. Then look to replace the speakers and sound deadening if you're still looking for improvements.

The 2DIN conversion kit is expensive (about £120ish to get new air vent dash unit to allow aftermarket HU to fit) but *worth it *



Sent from my e1911_v77_gq2000_a41_6628_v20 using Tapatalk 2
 

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I was looking into this for a while and was going to upgrade the standard speakers.

Got a sub put in before and now i'm really not bothered. I have all the bass going throught the sub now so the speakers are on very low bass. I'm happy with how it sounds now as the speakers can handle treble ok and I haven't had to change the OEM HU
 

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Due to having factory sat nav removing the head unit was not an option. I was sick of no bass so fitted a Alpine SWE-815 active sub. This has transformed the factory system. Not earth shattering competition sound but very acceptable if you don't need mass volume everywhere. The system now has a nice thump on the bass where as before it had nothing.
 

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I fit new speakers in the front of mine, when I had it.

It made no difference what so ever.

The head unit is pants.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great advice.

One thing I did notice is that the HU seriously lacks in the bass stakes. I turned it up fairly loud earlier and unlike most systems the bass was distorting first, which was instantly telling me that a sub could be an idea. The trebles seemed OK to be honest.

Gives me a few options, really want to avoid buying a new HU and fitting kit etc etc.
 

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I've got a built in satnav so didn't want to change anything and wanted it to look all standard.
I put in a kicker 10" sub and a half decent amp and it really has made a lot of difference!
On the settings I have the bass 2 below the middle and treble all the way up ( I like the tweeters)
Has made a big difference, would like to amp the speakers at some point though as I would like them to be that but louder
 

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Maxed out the bass, don't think I touched the treble. Seems ok. I had a custom system in my previous car, but I don't want to mess with installing one in this car.
 

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Reasonable Tenor voice
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617 Posts
Fitting new speakers and having the door sound insulated, made a bit of difference to the OEM unit for me
 

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Oh yeah, OEM head unit is awful. Definitely replace the HU, and add a sub.

The 2DIN conversion kit is expensive (about £120ish to get new air vent dash unit to allow aftermarket HU to fit) but *worth it *
How difficult is it to fit a 2DIN unit, and where can you get the conversion kit from, if you don't mind me asking ? I have a Pioneer AVIC I'd like to put in.
 

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Achtung Owls!
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163 Posts
How difficult is it to fit a 2DIN unit, and where can you get the conversion kit from, if you don't mind me asking ? I have a Pioneer AVIC I'd like to put in.
http://www.civinfo.com/forum/ipods-mp3-players-ice/81894-connects2-fascia-fitted.html

Heh. good question. If youre asking a seasoned modder, the answer is "not too bad - you could have your stereo in the car within half a day". If youre asking as a "normal owner" (like myself) - its a hassle. Worth it - you'll learn loads about how the car hangs together though. If youve never tried to get into the honda dash before , its daunting - but it is do-able by us mere mortals.. :)

Ok - to address your question directly - its actually not difficult to install it - its a hassle to get to that point where you can actually install it. The HONDA CIVIC MK8 has a 2DIN HU in it already you see (winner... yay!) - but the HU is an integral part of the dash (runs the clock, shows the cabin temp and A/C mode, fan speed etc), so taking it out is a bad thing as you'll have no idea if your aircon is off or on, what the temp is set to, etc etc (boo!). So this means that whilst removal of OEM HU is perfectly possible, you need to get some components to allow the fitting of a non HONDA OEM HU.

So - what do you need?

1) Not done this before? .. Bravery. you'll need this
2) Not done anything like this before? Time. Lots of. Expect to lose a weekend, or at least a dedicated day.
3) a CONNECTS2 kit to allow the CIVIC clock display to keep working)
4) a replacement 2DIN airvent unit allowing a 2DIN aftermarket HU to be fittted
5) a hacksaw

*... sounds of a needle being pulled of a record..*

"A HACKSAW??"

Yeah. believe it or not. there *is* ample 2DIN space for your new HU. but there is a tiny bit of dashboard scaffold/support/whatever-it-is that is in the way in the bottom left corner. Its enough to stop you installing your HU. You can cut it away (hence hacksaw) to make a full 2DIN hole. Its removal of about 1-2 square cm of material. Its a 10min job with a cheap use-once hacksaw. Sounds scary. its do-able. really, it is. honest!
You lose a hole for the dashboard panels to clip back into. In theory this increases the risk of vibration/rattles later, but ive not had this nor has anyone else, so proceed with confidence.

If you want the CIVIC steering wheel HU controls to still work, as long as your HU accepts a remote to be plugged into the back of it (my PIONEER AVH3200BT does, looks like a 3.5mm jack hole that youd see on an ipod) you should be ok.

If youre anywhere near leicester, let me know - id be happy to show you what ive done - maybe even help you out if youre stuck (sure wish there was someone to do that for me - i had to figure the whole thing out with a lot of guidance from civinfo threads though).

as a personal tip - as getting to the back of the HU is a *royal pain in the ass* if you decide to add an amp, or anything that requires any fiddling at the back of the HU - what i did was to connect phono cables to every possible port at the back of the HU, and then run extension cables ending just underneath the passenger footwell, and kept tidily out of sight. any maintenance is done *there* rather than directly at the back of the HU.
(you will THANK YOURSELF LOADS in the future if you do. I did.. and ive bought myself loads of beers as a thankyou since then hehe!!)

Take care chief!
Si
 

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It is quite easy, should take about 3-4 hours the first time. Most people decide not to bother with the rear view camera and then regret the decision afterwards. If you wire it in to the headunit, saves you removing it again later. I ran the cables to the rear and left the camera for another day:


You can see the small bit of plastic on this vid that needs removing, the air tool is a bit overkill - a dremel or small saw is fine.
 

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A friend and I changed my head unit using the connects 2 kit and that made a vast improvement, next was changing all speakers and to be fair, that didnt make much difference so then came a smallish sub and amp and the difference now is unbelievable.

It sounds so powerful and will not distort - all thanks to the sub mainly but that wouldnt be possible without the head unit conversion and the pre-outs of the replacement model.

You can pick up a decent new or used head unit for very cheap now, I'd buy one and the conversion kit and leave it at that.
 

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It is quite easy, should take about 3-4 hours the first time. Most people decide not to bother with the rear view camera and then regret the decision afterwards. If you wire it in to the headunit, saves you removing it again later. I ran the cables to the rear and left the camera for another day:

Honda civic Double din Install - YouTube

You can see the small bit of plastic on this vid that needs removing, the air tool is a bit overkill - a dremel or small saw is fine.
Ditto, my favourite mod :) everyone loves it when they see the cam come on :)
 

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Achtung Owls!
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163 Posts
yeah - to be fair - now ive done it and reassmbled it - i decided later to extend all the HU cables where i can plug new things in at a later date.. and i had the dash out cables plugged in and dash back in in just under an hour. (gutted, was trying for 45min).. :)

so the worst bit is the first time you take the dash out , imo, as it looks so horrendous - but actually, its a great schooling in how to "read" the car behind the scenes - gave me no end of confidence to try other stuff- soundproofing next! :)
 
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