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Discussion Starter #1
Also sorry to be a pain but I've noticed because I'm bleeding the clutch the bleeding nipple screw is starting to round off and it's making it more difficult , is there anything else I can use than the spanner I been using ?

Thanks again
 

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Single hex sockets are best, Flare nut spanners even better. ive never understood why 12 points are so popular, Ive never seen a 12 point nut in my life.
Bizarre isn't it. I have a set of 6 sided sockets but i really had to search for them. I have one or 2 combination spanners with 6 sides but not many and they are really rare.

OP can't use a socket when opening and closing for bleeding, but can for the initial loosening/tightening.
 

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Single hex sockets are best, Flare nut spanners even better. ive never understood why 12 points are so popular, Ive never seen a 12 point nut in my life.
I only strictly use flare nut spanners on brake bleed nipples. Bleed nipples extremely easy to round off. Also a lot of them seize and require blow torching.

I also use a one man bleed tool that sucks the brake fluid and air out via the nipple. But I always have someone man the brake fluid reservoir to make sure I don't take too much out. Makes the job so much easier, but your need an air compressor.
 

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i-Vtec
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One tip ive used very successfully with tricky bleed nipples is to wire brush them very well, then with a kettle full of boiling water pour the whole lot slowly over them. It just seems to have enough heat to help expand the metal.
Ive never understood why bleed nipples are so blooming small, its just asking for trouble.
 

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i-Vtec
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I think the pressurized air creates a low pressure, which in turn creates a vacuum which then sucks instead of blowing......

What ever you do do not search vacuum pump on ebay.............

:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops:
 

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you can get a vavum bleeder that has a hand pump
bit like a spray bottle but it sucks the fluid through

the best way is to use compressed air and have a cover on the master cylinder with air line to pressurize the system
 

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Here is the actual tool I use: Expert by Facom E200901B - Vacuum Brake Bleeder - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

I don't put anything over the master cylinder, I just make sure it's full of fluid at all times, I usually have someone watching the fluid as I'm bleeding. It does make life very easy, especially when doing a full bleed.

Machine Mart also do a hand vacuum pump, without the need for a compressor: Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit - Machine Mart - Machine Mart Although I haven't purchased one, nor used one.
 

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I only strictly use flare nut spanners on brake bleed nipples. Bleed nipples extremely easy to round off. Also a lot of them seize and require blow torching.

I also use a one man bleed tool that sucks the brake fluid and air out via the nipple. But I always have someone man the brake fluid reservoir to make sure I don't take too much out. Makes the job so much easier, but your need an air compressor.
some calipers (brembo) dont allow some brake pipe spanners to be used, and on the 9gen the rear nipples are a weird size so my spanner doesnt fit either.
i've resorted to using ring spanner on the FK2R. really annoying car too... 3 different size hex's on the bleed nipples - brembo, rear ATE's and clutch slave cylinder.
some suspect nipples i've used flank-drive sockets on just to loosen them before using spanner.

i've heard and seen snapped nipples but never had one myself and put it down apes doing work on them.

also had hit&miss experience with vacuum bleeders. i'm in the classic 2man method camp.

if you can and if you need to, always replace with the biggest hex you can find for your nipple size. also good to have caliper rebuild/seal kit always in stock if your doing this stuff..new seals, spare nipples, spare bolts - you never know what you'll find when stripping brakes and it's a pain waiting for bits to arrive either with car on jacks for a few days, popping out in another car for local parts, or having to reassemble to only re-strip a few days later since it's your only car.
 

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i've heard and seen snapped nipples but never had one myself and put it down apes doing work on them.

also had hit&miss experience with vacuum bleeders. i'm in the classic 2man method camp.
It's usually people applying way too much force to brake the nipple loose, without having the correct tools for the job. I find a lot of this applying to vehicles that have been modified by young owners, another reason of an arm list long to avoid a chavved up boyracers pride & joy.

As for vacuum bleeders, I only use them and I've never had an issue. I've done many full brake bleeds etc with them and never had an issue. Although I did run into problems with a cheap Chinese copy off of eBay. But what do you expect buying knock off £20 tools that cost £80-£100 at a tool shop. Every mechanic uses them as well, most are doing jobs on their own and don't have a second set of hands.
 

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It's usually people applying way too much force to brake the nipple loose, without having the correct tools for the job.
I think that the basic cause is the last person to bleed the brakes over tightened the nipple, combined with a bit of rust. And as you rightly point out, the use of an incorrectly sized spanner.
 

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i-Vtec
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I always remove the nipples, wire brush the threads and apply copper grease before bleeding. Its a darned shame the Civic doesn't use a "Normal" brake reservoir, I always liked the Gunson ezibleed.
 
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