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Would be good to know how well the manual copes with the extra torque :smile3:
Totally fine. The manual box doesn't have any of the same issues, it isn't even vaguely similar.

CVT transmissions are in their relative infancy and struggle to take torque in the same way a traditional auto or manual would.
 

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I know this is reviving a dead topic but I would just like to comment about my experience with the map on my CVT Honda. I am now sitting at 8000k miles and I haven't been gentle with it either. I have done many launches with the car, been very heavy footed with it and pretty much ragged the car any chance I could get, even from cold. Not a single issue as of yet. All my work mates can't believe how fast it is, it manages to stay level with my mates 300bhp Focus ST up to 120mph where he starts to pull away. That probably has something to do with the transmission though because it just revs to 6k and stays there the entire time I am accelerating. Doesn't sound as nice as a manual would but for sure it is faster as don't need to change gear. Gear-less transmission comes in handy. :D

I feel like the car could do with a bigger air intake though.

*Edit

Would also like to say that I am running with setting D which is the 240bhp setting with 99 ron fuel. As for the hondata video about CVT limits, even other tuning outlets have said they are being very conservative. There is one tuning outlet that has run their map at 260ftlb of torque and found no issues in their testing although I would agree that running at that level for an extended period would reduce the lifespan of the transmission. This map only runs 240ftlb so should be no issues. Like I said, I have absolutely nailed the car from the moment I have had it. If the transmission couldn't handle it, the CVT belt would have snapped by now.
 

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120+MPH? 8 million miles?:laugh2: Typos?
No I mean't 8 thousand miles lol And no why would 120mph be a typo? It's perfectly capable of going that fast in a straight line, although I won't do it again. Doesn't have much steam up that end but it was slowly still climbing speed. I didn't go much faster than that I got scared and backed off.
 

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No I mean't 8 thousand miles lol And no why would 120mph be a typo? It's perfectly capable of going that fast in a straight line, although I won't do it again. Doesn't have much steam up that end but it was slowly still climbing speed. I didn't go much faster than that I got scared and backed off.
It was my understanding the car was limited past 120mph anyway?
 

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It was my understanding the car was limited past 120mph anyway?

128 Apparently.I'm rather impressed they give a 167 top speed for the 1.5MT; That's not far off the CTR...
 

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It was my understanding the car was limited past 120mph anyway?
Well if the limit is 128mph it would explain why the car seemed to loss a lot of pull, it was still slowly climbing but my mates ST was a dot on the horizon by the time I got to 125 and I backed off at that point.

128 Apparently.I'm rather impressed they give a 167 top speed for the 1.5MT; That's not far off the CTR...
Do you think this removal of the limit could work for the CVT? You can put the CVT into manual mode and use the paddles, and when you do that it simulates gears from 1-7. I'd never go that fast just wondering if its possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
For the American market both the sport and SI are limited for top speed.
The manual sport uk is claimed at 137 mph, I read a road test in Auto express mag and they had the cvt sport down as 124 mph factory claim dont know if it's limited but my guess is its lower due to the gearing limitations of the cvt transmission
 

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For the American market both the sport and SI are limited for top speed.
The manual sport uk is claimed at 137 mph, I read a road test in Auto express mag and they had the cvt sport down as 124 mph factory claim dont know if it's limited but my guess is its lower due to the gearing limitations of the cvt transmission
Once you start getting up to higher speeds, you have to add a lot of power to go faster. Very few factory cars are top speed limited by gearing nowadays, its pretty much always down to either software limiters or aerodynamics, though I appreciate the CVT model could be.

Either way, I'd not fancy stopping in a hurry from 137mph.
 

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What that doesn't show that is in the instructions is the bit about "open the bonnet, lock the car and then wait 5 mins before fitting or removal".
Or is that not necessary?
 

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What that doesn't show that is in the instructions is the bit about "open the bonnet, lock the car and then wait 5 mins before fitting or removal".
Or is that not necessary?
It is still neccesary, well kind of. The important things are:
  • The ECU must be powered down before unplugging anything.
  • The ECU must not be powered back up while things are unplugged.
That might sound obvious, but the ECU doesn't immediately power down when the engine is stopped. It stays active for a couple of minutes after the engine is switched off.

The ECU is re-awoken every time a door is opened, the car is unlocked etc.

As long as the ECU is powered down from beginning to end of the install taking place, its no problem. Making sure the ECU is powered down is easy, just allow it to power down, and then don't wake it up again.

The reason we suggest locking the doors is just because reasonably often we have a customer call who has had someone else open the door or the boot mid-install. Locking the doors (when possible) means that nobody else can open the doors while you are busy concentrating on the connections.

If and when this happens the ECU will sometimes look for a signal from the MAP or boost sensors, fail to find it and show an error. This isn't actually a big deal, and will self clear eventually, its just best avoided.

The install videos don't have everything in that the instructions do, and aren't meant as a replacement. They just help significantly for someone doing a first time install.
 

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Thanks for that clarification edd. I'm sure that will jog other people's memories as well. But knowing the loathing to RTFM, (everything has to be done by pictures or videos these days it seems), I just thought it was worth mentioning again.
 

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Do you have a dyno chart for the FK8 box?
Indeed we do. It drives fantastically with this setup. Whilst it would be possible to try and pull out more midrange, the way this curve is preserves the character of the car and still rewards the driver for using the whole rev range.
 

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Anyone out there who's put the full 240 on their 1.5 done any other mods to deal with extra oomph?
Like suspension & brake upgrades.
 
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