2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 20 of 55 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks, I have posted in the wanted section but I don't think many members look in there, but does anyone have an old / faulty bluetooth module they would like to sell? I am looking for a couple so I can play with them and see if I can work out what goes wrong with them.

Many thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
825 Posts
Haven't got one to sell but have looked into this before.
Some mixed results with attempting a 'home' reflow - putting the PCBs in the oven.
Others have had some results from changing certain caps on the main PCB.
No one has been able to define a particular problem however.

I took a different route - the HFT forms part of an 'always live' canbus system - believe it is called the B-CAN. As well as the always live to the HFT there is also a switched live which becomes active when the key is in position 1 or higher.
For one reason or another the HFT stays active after leaving the car even thought it should enter a low power state after 30 min (iirc).
I simply added a relay to the always live power feed, switched by the switched power input. This effectively makes both inputs a switched input and ceases to power the unit at all once the key is removed.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,083 Posts
Haven't got one to sell but have looked into this before.
Some mixed results with attempting a 'home' reflow - putting the PCBs in the oven.
Others have had some results from changing certain caps on the main PCB.
No one has been able to define a particular problem however.

I took a different route - the HFT forms part of an 'always live' canbus system - believe it is called the B-CAN. As well as the always live to the HFT there is also a switched live which becomes active when the key is in position 1 or higher.
For one reason or another the HFT stays active after leaving the car even thought it should enter a low power state after 30 min (iirc).
I simply added a relay to the always live power feed, switched by the switched power input. This effectively makes both inputs a switched input and ceases to power the unit at all once the key is removed.
Neat feature that, wouldn't mind doing it myself as my phone keeps trying to connect to the jalopy if I park up and linger.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for that, but our one doesn't connect. Looking at getting the ic's reballed and then take it from there but could really do with a couple of units to see what is common to fail.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
825 Posts
Thanks for that, but our one doesn't connect. Looking at getting the ic's reballed and then take it from there but could really do with a couple of units to see what is common to fail.
Ah I see. You are going to have hell of a time trying to diagnose the issue Tbh. There is quite a few IC, plus the caps and coils, then the daughter board.
Best bet is to go for a solder reflow. Out the plastic case and put them on a non conductive surface amd cook.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
825 Posts
Neat feature that, wouldn't mind doing it myself as my phone keeps trying to connect to the jalopy if I park up and linger.
I think that's part of the reason it stays active, so you can continue to talk after parking up. Couldn't care less to be honest, if I am parked I can just pick up the handset...
It's easy enough to do, cheap relay of ebay, I think it was a 20a relay which was about the lowest rating I could easily find but still big enough for spade connectors
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,083 Posts
I think that's part of the reason it stays active, so you can continue to talk after parking up. Couldn't care less to be honest, if I am parked I can just pick up the handset...
It's easy enough to do, cheap relay of ebay, I think it was a 20a relay which was about the lowest rating I could easily find but still big enough for spade connectors
Thanks, will try and remember to take a a look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
hi guys,

I've been having intermittent problems with mine in the last few months. I tried taking the board out and cleaning the contacts etc but with no joy. It seems that it reconnects when you hold the module/wiring in different positions, indicating to me that there may be a damaged connection either in the wiring or in the module connector.
Anyone else had experience with this?



I could do with getting it sorted so was tempted to either get an autoelectrician to take a look or get a new module from a scrapyard.



What's the deal with the solder reflow? How do you do it?
Cheers,
Andy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ah I see. You are going to have hell of a time trying to diagnose the issue Tbh. There is quite a few IC, plus the caps and coils, then the daughter board.
Best bet is to go for a solder reflow. Out the plastic case and put them on a non conductive surface amd cook.

The fact I'm an electronic engineer with over 25yrs under my belt, I'm up for the challange ;)
the "cooking " way is not the best, you can't regulate the heat, I use a pre heater then infrared heat soldering. Somthing like this


I think its one of the BGA's that is causing all the trouble, but I need a couple of test boards to find out for sure.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
hi guys,

I've been having intermittent problems with mine in the last few months. I tried taking the board out and cleaning the contacts etc but with no joy. It seems that it reconnects when you hold the module/wiring in different positions, indicating to me that there may be a damaged connection either in the wiring or in the module connector.
Anyone else had experience with this?



I could do with getting it sorted so was tempted to either get an autoelectrician to take a look or get a new module from a scrapyard.



What's the deal with the solder reflow? How do you do it?
Cheers,
Andy
TBH I doubt an auto electrician would be up to the job, by the way you discrbe your fault it does sound like dry joints for print breaking down.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
825 Posts
Gtv1, you do seem to be the most competent person to perform this task!
I agree that some of the problems are caused by the BGA s, and that is why some have managed to home reflow with success. I agree you can't regulate the heat, but as usually the units are dead you have nothing to lose.

I hope you are able to get your hands of some faulty units and manage to diagnose the problem (HFT repair service?)
The only issue I foresee is that the some units are dead (BGA) and some units like mine drain the battery (possibly a cap?).
You could be stepping into a minefield!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Gtv1, you do seem to be the most competent person to perform this task!
I agree that some of the problems are caused by the BGA s, and that is why some have managed to home reflow with success. I agree you can't regulate the heat, but as usually the units are dead you have nothing to lose.

I hope you are able to get your hands of some faulty units and manage to diagnose the problem (HFT repair service?)
The only issue I foresee is that the some units are dead (BGA) and some units like mine drain the battery (possibly a cap?).
You could be stepping into a minefield!
Again the power drain *shouldn't* be to much of a problem once I have a working one to compare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
thanks for the advice, I'm just going to have a crack and try it in the oven tonight.
Any advice what temperature to set it for on a fan oven and for how long?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I wouldn't tbh. yu can do more damage than good, but if you MUST. then turn the fan off, you really don't want alot of air moving around and 180-200 for 10 mins. don't move it after you have finished just open the door and let it cool before you touch/move it.
But again I really won't do it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
825 Posts
I wouldn't tbh. yu can do more damage than good, but if you MUST. then turn the fan off, you really don't want alot of air moving around and 180-200 for 10 mins. don't move it after you have finished just open the door and let it cool before you touch/move it.
But again I really won't do it.
As above, use a baking sheet too to separate the component from the pan.

As GTV1 said, you could do alot more damage keeping in mind that PC processors usually shut down for safety at around 90-100c, you are going to hit twice that in your oven.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
179 Posts
Well if you do figure it out and it's a relatively cheap fix that you're willing to do for others, then let me know and I'll send you my one to fix. The fact that I have no bluetooth in mine is driving me nuts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
As above, use a baking sheet too to separate the component from the pan.

As GTV1 said, you could do alot more damage keeping in mind that PC processors usually shut down for safety at around 90-100c, you are going to hit twice that in your oven.
Just performed a reflow on my Bluetooth module and lo and behold it has started working again!!
I have suffered poor connectivity since getting the car, a year now, and as previously stated probably some sort of dry joint/poor connection, as I used to be able to get it to connect by tapping on the panel to which the module is attached.
I have tried removing the boards and cleaning everything as previous posts have tried but did not help.
Anyway as the unit was defunct it was a case of what have I got to lose.
Did the reflow as suggested 200C in a non fan assisted oven for 10mins, up to now all ok.
I did suffer from the parasitic drain as some others have before and disconnected my Bluetooth module because of this and haven't had an issue since with the battery, even leaving it for 3 weeks in Februarys cold weather whilst I was away.
Good luck with finding out what causes this as I'm sure that there are loads of people out there who have units waiting for repair.

I will post if the drain issue resurfaces, but it is good to get the little phone icon back in the display.
 
1 - 20 of 55 Posts
Top