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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I really dont know where to post this...

So anyway here it goes.

In the new year I will be making a custom made fibreglass bonnet and am going to make it completely functional so not only looks.

I have the HKS RSK and will be making a custombox under the bonnet with build in heat shield. The only air access will be from the bonnet. Now my problem is with the design. I am not anyway into aero so have no idea what would suite best. Thats why I am asking.

I have spent hours creating a rough picture to help explain what I am looking at. (dont judge me!!!!)



Model 1 explained:

The scoop itsself has the opening closest to the windscreen which I heard is a popular way of doing it as there is a "hidden" air bubble there which forces air around the bonnet which can be sucked up. At the opening at the top the scoop will bend down slightly to help against water getting into the bonnet. Also on the bonnet about 1cm behind the opening under the "roof" of the scoop there is a lip on the bonnet to stop water running down the bonnet and into the scoop.

Model 2 explained: Exactly the same as model 1 only the scoop opening is facing foward giving a more direct air flow.

What do you guys think? I am only in the design stages of the bonnet so please any CONSTRUCTIVE critism is more than welcome... its actually why I am posting this.

If anyone has any ideas on why I should/shouldnt do something please let me know but also back your post up with something. Dont just say "dont do that" it wastes both our time.

Matt

This is a serious thread! If you have no informative ideas or thoughts to post... DONT! The pictures are childish yes.. so what? My paint skills arent up to scratch!
 

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Brilliant. I like haha

Why not get a fake mugen 20 bonnet?
 

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Or J's Vented??

That ones truly boner worthy!! : )
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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The bonnet on our cars becomes a low pressure zone as speed increases so your scoop will not catch the amount of air you want.
Better use the cowl at the base of the windshield to make a custom cowl induction. This is a tried and proven concept. Early musclecars from the 1960`s already had them. Even today you can find it on some racecars.
A few years ago I had a combination of a cowl air induction sytem and a ramair system on my FN2 to maximize the amount of air the engine could take in.
It worked very good but I took it off for a couple of reasons. One being the smell of intake manifold gases from the cylinderhead ventilation sytem somehow entering the interior on overrun. I also missed the sharp sound from my previous short ram intake on full throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The bonnet on our cars becomes a low pressure zone as speed increases so your scoop will not catch the amount of air you want.
Better use the cowl at the base of the windshield to make a custom cowl induction. This is a tried and proven concept. Early musclecars from the 1960`s already had them. Even today you can find it on some racecars.
A few years ago I had a combination of a cowl air induction sytem and a ramair system on my FN2 to maximize the amount of air the engine could take in.
It worked very good but I took it off for a couple of reasons. One being the smell of intake manifold gases from the cylinderhead ventilation sytem somehow entering the interior on overrun. I also missed the sharp sound from my previous short ram intake on full throttle.
So something like this?



You got any ideas of why the smell was getting into the interior?

I am just thinking because if I am going to make the effort of making a lightweight bonnet I want it to be functional.
 

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As you are custom fabricating could you take inspiration from something like the Gruppe M system on the EP3? Ie a scoop at the top of the bonnet (facing forward) and directing air towards the HKS RSK.

I don't know if the different shape means this does not work as well on the FN2 but it is excellent on the EP3 and could be a starting point?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As you are custom fabricating could you take inspiration from something like the Gruppe M system on the EP3? Ie a scoop at the top of the bonnet (facing forward) and directing air towards the HKS RSK.

I don't know if the different shape means this does not work as well on the FN2 but it is excellent on the EP3 and could be a starting point?

The HKS will be completely boxed in so it wont get any air from the engine bay what so ever.. this is to help keep the air temp down.


Can you eleberate more on what you are trying to say with this picture?
 

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if you want a close box around the HKS you don't need a bonnet scoop. Just buy a pipe and a scoop like the seeker or driven crazy, less trouble.

I think a scoop like that in the ep3 will be good if want a SRI like the HKS but with some cold air. The scoop in the ep3 is for itb's but i think it work fine with a normal HKS.
 

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in theory what you are making is a gruppe m intake scoop utilising the HKS RSK..

so that would be the best bet from the grille make something that attaches to the bonnet and to your enclosed box for the RSK
 

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also just thought too, if your going for an enclosed box, why not bin the RSK...

Get the tegiwa box and hks premium suction kit coupled with the mugen/tegiwa fog light intake replacements?
 

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I think a scoop up from the fog into the HKS will produce better results, certainly will give cleaner colder air than from the top feed and as has been said I don't think you'll get the volume of air your looking for, aside from this the costs involved in doing this for very minimal gain, is it going to be worth it?
 

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So something like this?



You got any ideas of why the smell was getting into the interior?

I am just thinking because if I am going to make the effort of making a lightweight bonnet I want it to be functional.
I suspect the smell was coming from the upper cylinderhead ventilation hose into the rubber intake manifold right before the throttle body.
Matt, I have a link from an old topic here which might be interesting for you:
http://www.civinfo.com/forum/type-r/33403-changed-intake-my-fn2-yet-again.html?highlight=culasse
 

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That`s a classic mistake to expect air rushing into the engine. There`s simply no positive airpressure letting air into the engine via that spot. You will only get turbulence from the boundary layering effect.
 

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You will need to put a upper scoop like the rotex bumper, so the air could flow to, for example, one GrouppeM intake. ;)
 

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I'm not 100% sure if this is right, but if you have a scoop that faces the windscreen as the air rushes over it, warm air from the engine will be sucked out, but I guess if the RSK is enclosed by a heat shield you wont be that bothered about under bonnet temperatures.

I like the idea Matt and look forward to seeing what you come up with. Like other members have suggested I think something like the cowl on the EP3 GM might work.

How about asking Tegiwa to supply you with the cowl part of there EP3 GM intake?
 
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