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Discussion Starter #1
Well Mrs was complaining than the brakes was squeaking so I thought today while I had the chance I'll check them out.

Well the strip down was pretty standard but when putting back together turned into an headache. Used to doing jobs like this myself but those bloody spring clips came as an unwanted suprise.

Normally an hour or so job turned into nearly 3. Got there in the end but about pulling my back out.

Anyone got any hints to get the damn things back on much easier ?
 

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Pliers, hammer and brute force works well. The squeaking is usually the Honda pads, they really are annoying. I bought some Brembo pads from GSF and no more squeaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pliers, hammer and brute force works well. The squeaking is usually the Honda pads, they really are annoying. I bought some Brembo pads from GSF and no more squeaking.
Thats pretty much what i ended up doing, gaining a number of cuts in the process. Never had them sort of clips on a caliper before on other makes.

As for the pads there is plenty on them as the car has only done 28k.

Just gave them a clean up and grease all the contact points, other than the surface of course ;)
 

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And attached are a picture i found online of the same calipers which is fitted to an Accord.

Surely there is an easier way to put the spring clips back on?????
the springs look very similar to the old astra set up from a few years back
 

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Same as the clips on my Jeep - a pain yes for sure :/
I found that if you get one end in (but not all the way), then manipulate the other end in with a pair of pliers, once partly into the holes - either encourage them in all the way with the pliers or gently tap them home with a (small) hammer
 

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yep, and they were crap back then.
FK2 typeR has that setup on the rear (stand 9G civic rear brakes afaik) and i loath doing them.


easiest way i've found is to properly locate one end of the spring clip, and then start to locate the other end in the hole in the caliper. Hold this in so it wont pop out and use pliers to locate the bit of the spring clip that sits on the pad carrier.
sometimes the spring can be done by hand, but some are a bit stiffer needing a bit of help from pliers.
basically this method: [ame]https://youtu.be/2PhRpoPZx60?t=630[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I spent ages looking at how to put them clips back on easier than I was making it.

He made that look way too easy

I'm hanging my spanners up 😭
 

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Once you get the knock for them it's pretty easy.. First time when I did the fronts there was a lot of swearing but with a bit of patience, pliers and a small hammer it becomes quite easy.
 

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Nearing 28K myself; Had a look at the rears the other day and the inner pads were looking a little slim; I may do an all round change for Yellowstuff pads.
TRW standard DTEC pads are the same as greeenstuff, just a shedload cheaper. YS are mainly track pads and don't bite as well from cold unless they have some heat.
 

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Just did mine today. First one was easy right up to the point of putting that ******* spring clip back on. Grrr..

After a lot of swearing I realised it was easier to pull the clip in rather than push it with the pliers. Other side I got in with this technique in about 30 seconds. 🙂 you need something to pull the clip, a hook of some sort - I used an old “C” spanner, the type you use to wind coilovers up or down.

My method: put the top part of the spring all the way in. Put the lower loop where it needs to be behind the Caliper, then whilst holding it all in place pull the lower end up towards the hole. Pull hard and it WILL get to the hole, tap in with a small hammer, open beer etc.
 

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I've done the front and rear brakes on my tourer and don't remember anything especially difficult about them, seemed pretty conventional. I don't recall the springs being a problem, although I've probably changed tens if not hundreds of brake pads in my life so maybe I've just got the knack.

In fact the only slightly difficult thing is winding back the rear pistons but even that's easy compared to the VW type stuff where you really do need a proper tool.
 

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fitted yellow stuff with brembo discs on mine due to losing brake pedal on a country run with stock pads. lovely braking. same driving style and it stops nice

edit, meant brembo discs
 

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also put on 17inch aftermarket wheels with a larger width (extra inch, much less tyre flex) with ps4 rubber. handling has improved quite a bit, by around 10mph extra on the average bend.

so for those wanting superior handling on bumpy country roads along with decent looks whilst not reducing ride comfort. 17 inch wheels with a width of 7.5j and a 40 offset for rears and 45/46/47/48/49 offset for the front are spot on.

225/45/17
 

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7.5j / 225/45/17 is the standard width and tyre size for the 17" offering.

I've had them from factory, and I've never had an issue with handling - I can certainly see how the heavier diesel would have trouble on the 16" factory wheels though.

I'm impressed you managed to cook the stock brakes though, how is your fluid?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
 

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ye on my 2.2 its a really impressive difference. i drive on the limit though, 500m clear vision country roads.

brake fluid was flushed when i bought it so it was not a fluid issue for the failure. it was defo the pads. discs were discoloured and you could smell the burnt pads in the cabin even when moving forward.

i created the same scenario with the yellow stuff and brembos. the discs got discoloured the same but the pads did not fade.

cold start performance of the yellow stuff is acceptable to me too, 2.2 is heavier though so maybe that helps warm up
 

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i must add that only the fronts have the brembo/yellow stuff. rears are basic pagid discs and mintex pads.

fluid was also replaced with DOT5.1
 
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