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camber adjustments

5K views 22 replies 3 participants last post by  Ikertxxo 
#1 ·
Hi there
First of all forgive if there is any error because I am using google translator.

I have a Civic 2.2 and I have eibach spacers mounted. 20mm at the front and 15mm at the rear. I plan to put the eibach prokit that you recommend so much in the forum. The question I have is that when I put the spacers on aligning the address they told me that in the back it is not possible. I have read several posts in which you place some wedges. Would it be possible to achieve this in Spain in any way? Or trying to make a reading of the falls and send them and buy them there on request.
At the front buying the eibach bolts would be enough isn't it?
The configuration in which it should be recommended would be this, right?

Front Tip: 1mm overall tip
Front Camber: 1 negative degree on each side

Back Tip: 2mm Tip Overall
Rear Camber: 1 negative degree on each side
 
#2 ·
Yes, I think you're on the right track with the measurements.

Speak to ABP or TDI on here.

Basically you need to do this:

Find a decent garage with a Hunter (or similar) allignment system, and get them to give you a base reading of where your car allignment is at present. It'll look something like this:

312043



Then speak nicely to one of the above tuning shops and they'll recommend and sell you the shims you need to sort the often laughably wonky rear end that our 8th gens come free from the factory with. The readout above is mine, the rear camber is ok, but the toe is pretty crap. Shims are about a tenner each, and need to be fitted behind the stub axle - easy enough job, wheel off, brakes off, whole hub assembly off (four bolts, no need to split the hub and worry about bearings etc) and the shims sit in place, somewhat correcting the shady original angles.

Then you need a couple of camber bolts for the front, fit them in place of the upper strut bolt, then back to your allignment place for the set up. Decent places will be happy for you to set it up however you want (within the realms of adjustability) and various, very similar baseline geometry configs can be found on this site. ABP and TDI, for example have posted theirs (thanks to Syx for this post):
312044



With the analysis, parts, fitting (if you do it yourself) and final geometry setup you're looking at probably about £100, maybe a tad over.
 
#3 ·
At the front buying the eibach bolts would be enough isn't it?
Yes thats correct.You can get away with one camber bolt each side but id suggest buying two sets as they are quite cheap anyway.


As long as you have access to a 4 wheel alignment then shims for the rear is the way to go.
 
#4 ·
I thought I only had one each side, I will buy two then. Thanks a lot.
What I will do is assemble the springs and bolts, make a measurement and order the wedges they recommend.
With bolts and wedges is what you mean to be able to regulate the 4 wheels right?
The alignment with hunter that you suggested to me is through laser or something. I will try to find something like this to be able to contact the workshops that you mention later.
 
#5 ·
You can only use bolts on the front, the rears have to be wedges. Using 2 sets of camber bolts on the front means the person setting the camber up has better control of the adjustment. When I did mine the shop could only get 1 degree of negative camber. Two bolts allow the bottom on the hub to be pushed out and the top pushed in giving more negative camber. As Milanofn2 says you will need stock readings to start with so that you can then buy the correct shims. Or you will have to buy a puck of various shims and it becomes a lottery if you get the right ones.
 
#6 ·
@Das @MilanoFN2

Yes, I will try to do that. But since there is no need at the front, I will have the bolts and springs mounted directly. After they do a reading and send it to one of these two workshops that have them and send me the ones I need. When I receive them I will assemble them and we will proceed to regulate everything correctly.

Thanks for your help, as soon as I do I will tell you how it has gone. It will take me many days to do all this because of the confinement that we suffer right now because of the coronavirus.
A greeting!
 
#15 ·
It was a mistake. the ictdi uses the same bolts as the type R and so could not fit them. I am waiting for the new 16mm kit to arrive and adjust it. ABP setting is for circuit or daily use? not if it is better to take it with the configuration or it is due to the irregular wear that the tires may have
 
#16 ·
Sorry for giving you duff information about the camber bolts. TDI north state Type R and Non Type R for the Eibach ones, I assumed that the cdti would also cover the No Type R version. Indeed when I bought mine they confirmed I needed Non Type R version, they never asked which Engine I had.
BTW Ive had a look through Lings and all their parts drawings are showing 14mm for the bolts for the cdti.


Anyway the Red could be due just because of worn bushes, ball joints, top mounts or bearings.
 
#17 ·
ABP confirmed to me on facebook that it used 16mm. I do not know why, the truth that seeing your photo seems strange, but the 14mm ones are small ...
red appears as I was told because it is not a factory setting. It does not mean that it is wrong since it is the ABP configuration.
 
#20 ·
good morning
the car screw is 14 metric and the eibach 8.1260K are 12 metric and the cam ends at 14. these would be correct? because the 8.1280k are metric 14 and cam 16. so it would not go into the hole.

If I put the 8.1260k there is no slack as it is different from the car metric?the one in the workshop now tells me that the 8.1280k does not fit. I have seen several videos on the internet and the cars that carry metric 14 use the 8.1260k but my concern is that. the thread is metric 12 and it will dance in the hole
 
#21 ·
in the end after speaking several times ABP tells me this. I hope it serves more people.

That's right. So you you have the correct bolts now. They will fit your car, as the diesels use the smaller bolts (different to Type R) We have double checked this.

The bolts need to be smaller due to the cam that is fitted. You should have a new nut to use with the Eibach bolt. I hope this makes sense.

But you do have the correct bolts 60K for your diesel Civic. They will work and will allow adjustment of the front camber 👍👍👍
 
#22 ·
Sorry im confused. Which bolts do you now have for fitting? As they have explained you get a smaller bolt than normal or you wouldn't get the Cam through the hole. This elliptical lobe then turns inside the space between the shock absorber and the hub. The bolt shaft then moves side to side. You dont need a new nut as there is a new nut supplied.
 
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