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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am finding that anytime within the first 20 to 30 mins of driving my car, that if I try to accelerate even slightly more than normal (overtaking a tractor for example) the car will reach about 3000rpm then just cut out on me, very dramatically as if the whole thing has just shut down.. A quick pump of the clutch and sticking it in fourth gets her going again.

This is obviously quite dangerous and has left me fearful of being hit up the rear one of these days.

It mostly does this in third gear though I have managed to reproduce the problem in second also. One time it did this and reverted to "limp mode" (limited revs etc). I took it to the garage and had the high pressure fuel pump replaced. It is still however doing this. Once warmed up (30 mins) the car can be driven hard (not usual style but to check) without any problems occurring. I have also noticed it seems to take an extra couple of turns to get going in the morning (that could just be winter months I guess)

So, not a major problem if I drive like an OAP for the first half hour but living in the country I often need to overtake tractors etc and it is becoming a real pain to have to wait half hour before I can even begin to rely on my car.

The car was serviced about 6k miles ago and I asked the garage who said they always use OEM parts..

Any ideas at all would be a massive help, I think I am going to try to fix this myself (along with the damn vibrations coming from the passenger engine bay area).

This was meant to be the best car I ever owned but it has been a nightmare to be honest. One thing after another.

Help me civ-info peeps, y'all are my only hope :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Might be worth noting that when first left running (while stationary) cold, a smell of exhaust fumes enters the cockpit. Once driving, it quickly dissipates. When left running stationary when car is up to normal operating temps, there is no invasive smell that I can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for your response. Seems odd that sensors would only fail intermittently when the engine is cold. Prior to replacing the HP fuel pump the problems I was having were getting the thing started when it was warm....

I am Guessing I will have to just keep throwing money at this until it goes away.. Bought an OBDII dongle, hooked her up and got a P1065 error code (only error code that came up).. Seems to indicate a pressure problem from what I gather but then I am no expert (hence asking for help here to little avail).. Shall search further and see what I find.

Once again, thanks for your input :)
 

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P1065 (and often P0087) points to low fuel rail pressure and is commonly associated with fuel filter problems... when was yours last replaced and was it the oem (Denso) part?

Yes, cracked exhaust manifolds are a known problem with this engine but I've never heard of them being anything but a minor nuisance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
About a year ago for the fuel filter.. There has been two occasions since where the car was driven to very low fuel levels however (far less that I like) and one occasion where the computer was showing zero for a a few miles prior to me getting it to garage (country life during fuel shortages lol). Chance of crap being sucked into someplace am guessing.

I have got the car booked in for service on Monday. Have been told fuel/air filters are replaced as part of the service and all OEM parts will be used.

I am going to look into manifold also as the leaking smell in the cabin can't be good even if it is just for the first couple of mins. When I hear "manifold" I think "expensive".

Thanks again civ-info peeps, this has been really grinding me down at times.
 

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About a year ago for the fuel filter.. There has been two occasions since where the car was driven to very low fuel levels however (far less that I like) and one occasion where the computer was showing zero for a a few miles prior to me getting it to garage (country life during fuel shortages lol). Chance of crap being sucked into someplace am guessing.

I have got the car booked in for service on Monday. Have been told fuel/air filters are replaced as part of the service and all OEM parts will be used.

I am going to look into manifold also as the leaking smell in the cabin can't be good even if it is just for the first couple of mins. When I hear "manifold" I think "expensive".

Thanks again civ-info peeps, this has been really grinding me down at times.
Honda have an extended warranty on the manifold. You may still get it replaced FOC.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's a 2006 model with about 110,000 miles on the clock.. My guess is it would be out of even any extended warranty (heads off to check)
 

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It's a 2006 model with about 110,000 miles on the clock.. My guess is it would be out of even any extended warranty (heads off to check)
Maybe not. AFAIK the warranty for the manifold is 8 yr and 120k and covers the 2.2 regardless of model. Best to search on the forum or ask Honda.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 

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Maybe not. AFAIK the warranty for the manifold is 8 yr and 120k and covers the 2.2 regardless of model. Best to search on the forum or ask Honda.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
7 years / 125k miles... I wish I could prove this with a link (but I can't). Some evidence of Honda service history is also important.
 

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Ah I see. Always worth a try.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 

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IF SHE SMOKES SHE POKES
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Mine did this turned out to be a non Honda fuel filter fitter swapped for a genuine part been fine since
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I took her in for her service and as per the fuel filter comment, it has in fact seemed to have cleared the issue..

I need to do a proper few tests over time to be satisfied but she was a lot more responsive and not dying on me all the way home..

I am going to check on the manifold issue to see if it is under warranty. If so then nice one for the heads up.. 500 quid spent in last month and insurance is due.. That's after nearly 500 spent just before Christmas. I am about tapped out lol ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Checked with Honda UK on the manifold warranty.. The guys I spoke to (Richard and Matt) claim 7 years and 150,000 miles.. I am four months out of the required date range (with 110,000 miles) and they wont have anything to do with it.

Gutted.

Oh and after the service, problem is still there (so now I have had the sensors changed, HP fuel pump and all filters etc).

I get feeling only possible cause left now IS the manifold.

Skint & Double gutted...
 

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Checked with Honda UK on the manifold warranty.. The guys I spoke to (Richard and Matt) claim 7 years and 150,000 miles.. I am four months out of the required date range (with 110,000 miles) and they wont have anything to do with it.

Gutted.

Oh and after the service, problem is still there (so now I have had the sensors changed, HP fuel pump and all filters etc).

I get feeling only possible cause left now IS the manifold.

Skint & Double gutted...
Ah it was worth a shot. To be fair its unusual for a manufacturer to give such a long warranty on a part especially an exhaust part.
 

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A cracked exhaust manifold would definitely not cause low fuel pressure.

When the fuel pump was replaced, was the pressure control solenoid also replaced? It fits into the fuel pump and is the part on the fuel pump with the only electrical connector. This is what caused my Accord to suffer fuel pressure problems a couple of years ago... Honda do not stock these parts, so you have to get them from Bosch. I'm guessing that maybe you've had a new pump (which are massively expensive!) but they re-used the pressure regulator? There isn't many other things that can affect fuel pressure without causing starting problems, but - if the pump regulator is new - my money would be on the fuel rail over-pressure relief valve (on drivers side end of fuel rail) relieving pressure when it shouldn't. A common thing to fail, but usually simply leaks... again, not available from Honda but Bosch sell them via their service centres/agents.

Replacement non-Honda i-CTDi exhaust manifolds are available much cheaper on eBay... a couple of TypeAccord members have bought them and they seem OK. Otherwise, cracked ones can be successfully re-welded. EDIT: link added... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/16030-nackered-manifold-what-do-i-need-to-buy/?hl=manifold note that in post#9 F6HAD mentions a fixed-price repair option. He is also a Civinfo member and may be able to quote you for a repair to a Civic (manifold is the same, but slightly less room to work in, so may be a different price), so PM him if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all the info Jon.. I believe the solenoid(s) were the first thing replaced when all this started happening. The fuel pump was replaced after this job had been done (not sure if that makes a difference).

I shall digest the other info you have shared and decide upon what course to take next (well in a month or so after I pay insurance and get more cash saved).

Once again, many thanks for yours (and all) responses :)
 
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