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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I got a problem. Today I testing out my new reverse lights . So I put my car in reverse and went to check and it was working great. So I went to turn the ignintion off and than turned it back on a few minutes later and the car wouldn't start. I got a yellow key light on the dash screen and its beeping. I called the breakdown but they could not solve it. So I disconnected the battery and re-connected it, now the yellow key and beeping goes away when I shut the door but the dashscreen only lights up but nothing is displaying, than it goes black and it only lights up again for a few seconds when I take the key out and put it back in. What could be the cause of this?

I rang up Honda and they have no clue and told me to take it down there but I am curious in knowing how this has happened

Cheers
 

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ufoblue mine happened as I was pulling into a parking space but I had recently changed the reverse bulbs for led if it's the same as mine there is no big fat 0 comes up on the speedo readout either but the clock and radio still light up..
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
When you find it try and post the fuse number. Or even better a photo with arrow.

This is one of those instances where you needed a multimeter. The fuses are designed with a front/outside access point so you don't need to take them out to test. Boring job but you would have got there.
Well I rang up Horizon Honda this morning and I told them that someone had the same issue as me and they changed the dash clock 7.5a fuse and it fixed the problem, they said they will look into it and the Honda Technician guy has been working on it for an hour or so.

Just now I got a phone call from Horizon Honda and he said they changed that fuse and the car is back up and running now :D

Yeah bbyy

He said its the first time they have seen this kind of problem and the Honda technician guy was amazed that a blown fuse which looked unrelated would cause so much problems
He said they where about to put a new engine management system in there if I didn't ring up and mention about the fuse, ouch :facepalm:

He said he didn't know that I had actually changed the bulb for a led one. To be fair, I don't think they would of guessed straight away that a clock fuse had gone, because this is new problem to them. originally we thought the coding blanked

Later on I will post the pic of the fuse that was changed. Thanks everyone for your replies and to the person who worked out which fuse had gone

I think this needs to go in the sticky or somewhere cause its a sneaky head scratching fault that someone else might bump into

I am just happy that its fixed now :D :cheers:
 

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FYI -

Interior fuse box - Fuse 10
This is the same fuse for both petrol and diesel models.
 
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hallelujah indeed it is in fact fuse 10 in the interior fuse box, second one in nearest the door on the bottom row.. in the handbook it is just described as 'meter'. just changed mine and we are running fine again :p cant believe such a small fuse can cause all these problems guess it must be part of the immobiliser system :confused: I have to say a massive thanks to ufoblue for finding this and to CIVINFO as a site where would we be without you :):) cheers guys
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
More detail in why 10 fuse blows.

I worked out the main reason why certain LED bulbs blow the Fuse 10 when changing the reverse light. Its because when you twist the LED bulb in the holder, the negative and positive legs on certain led bulbs is very thin metal legs, feels a bit like solder, they can catch when you are twisting the bulb in the holder and if they touch each other, then this can cause a short and that is what blows the fuse 10. And yeah It happened to me again the other day lol, but this time I was curious why, so I opened the bulb up and noticed the 2 legs, negative and positive was twisted together. Also you get the engine management light come on after you replace the Fuse 10, just disconnect the negative on the battery for a few minutes and it goes away. Just thought I would share this so people can be a bit careful
 

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Its because when you twist the LED bulb in the holder
This is interesting... My reverse bulbs are T15 so I just push them into the holder without twisting them at all???
Unless you mean screwing the holder back into the light housing, but at that point the bulb should be firmly in place and shouldn't move anyway :confused::confused::confused:
 

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This happened to me, changed for LED and 7.5a fuse blew. Which is ok as that's whats its for, but the mayhem 1 fuse caused was a bit distressing, I will set the scene, 1 led bulb changed, now no speedo, engine fails to start, engine management light is on, no rear led bulbs working, the fuse box says meter and you have to test each fuse to find the duff one, all whilst upside down in the foot well......absolute nuts. Replaced, disconnected battery for 30 mins and all back to normal, out of the interest the OBD reader said it was a communication error with dashboard. Come on Honda, explain your fuses properly! Lesson learnt.
 

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This happened to me, changed for LED and 7.5a fuse blew. Which is ok as that's whats its for, but the mayhem 1 fuse caused was a bit distressing, I will set the scene, 1 led bulb changed, now no speedo, engine fails to start, engine management light is on, no rear led bulbs working, the fuse box says meter and you have to test each fuse to find the duff one, all whilst upside down in the foot well......absolute nuts. Replaced, disconnected battery for 30 mins and all back to normal, out of the interest the OBD reader said it was a communication error with dashboard. Come on Honda, explain your fuses properly! Lesson learnt.
Frustrating indeed, but cutting corners often bites you (been there myself).

Honda electronic's do seem very sensitive though I'm sure this affects other manufacturer's.

Well done sorting it out tho :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This is interesting... My reverse bulbs are T15 so I just push them into the holder without twisting them at all???
Unless you mean screwing the holder back into the light housing, but at that point the bulb should be firmly in place and shouldn't move anyway :confused::confused::confused:
I only just noticed you replied :grin2:

You push them in, thats right but I have find when it don't still work you twist it around, to get a connection, and sometimes when you do that, 2 connections can touch then short out lol

I guess its just human instant. I'm used to twisting :laugh2:
 

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I had similar issue too but it was related to changing my sidelight. What happened, the fuse which provides interior light behind the dash got blown out so I had to change fuse 7.5a.

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Honda Man Steve
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Hi,

Just noticed this thread and would like to post my comments as I had the exact same issue, totally threw me at first,
The issue I was facing was every few days my passenger side brake light bulb would blow, must have went through around 5 bulbs in a month.
Then one morning leaving work the car would not start.
Rang Honda assist who dispatched AA to me and after around 5 minutes of checks the AA man fixed the issue handing me a fuse (yep the same 7.5a one from slot 10 under dash )
It wasn’t completely blown but was enough to make intermittent contact - hence that bulb blowing every couple of days.
Since then - no more blown bulbs and it’s been 6 months now.




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How the hell can a simple reverse light fuse cause so much conflict?, seems a bit stupid to stick it on the same circuit as a critical one as it looks!.

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I've just had this happen.
I had a damp rear seatbelt and traced the leak to the reverse camera wire not being threaded through the hatch rubber connection where the rest of the tailgate wires go (not fitted by myself was a previous owner). So I ran the wires back through the right route and connected everything back up.
Now the problems started, when twisting the bulb holder to put back in tailgate the bulb must have blown so I changed the bulb and no nothing. You know the rest but after changing fuse 10 and removing battery cable i waited half an hour or there abouts before reconnecting and I still have the dreaded engine management light and airbag light and vsa light and no ignition has anyone any ideas
Please help I'm in quite a panic

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I've just had this happen.
I had a damp rear seatbelt and traced the leak to the reverse camera wire not being threaded through the hatch rubber connection where the rest of the tailgate wires go (not fitted by myself was a previous owner). So I ran the wires back through the right route and connected everything back up.
Now the problems started, when twisting the bulb holder to put back in tailgate the bulb must have blown so I changed the bulb and no nothing. You know the rest but after changing fuse 10 and removing battery cable i waited half an hour or there abouts before reconnecting and I still have the dreaded engine management light and airbag light and vsa light and no ignition has anyone any ideas
Please help I'm in quite a panic

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Anyone?

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