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Discussion Starter #6
need it tomorrow really, got a bit of a drive on friday and its just over min level. halfrauds is prob my only option as need to add it tomorrow, dont want to spend a fortune as the cars new to me and I dont know whats currently in there. fuchus was my first choice after reading around here

magnatec is fully syn
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i know there are better oils but will Castrol Magnatec 5W30 do for now?

i was under the impression any 0/5W30/40 or 5W30/40 fully syn was ok to use?
 

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Just done some googling - Magnatec 10-40 and 15-40 are part synthetic, but the the lighter ones appear to be fully synthetic.
 

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Just a word of advice


This oil goes through my engine at a rate of 2ltrs for 1300miles...

Switch to 5w40 fuchs or similar brand (same grade) leaves the car needing about 150ml every 500 miles. Much better.
 

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i used Castrol Magnatec Professional 5w30 A3 / ** with no issues.

the above mentioned oil uses a hydro-cracked mineral group 3 base which is as good as your PAO Group 4 synthetics.

Its carries the following approvals -

API SL/CF
ACEA A3/B3 / ACEA A3/**
GM-LL-A-025
GM-LL-B-025
BMW Longlife-01 / LL-01
MB-Approval 229.3
RENAULT RN0700 / RN 0700
Meets FIAT 9.55535-G1
VW 502 00 / VW 505 00
and the following specs -

Test Method(s) Unit Typical
Density @ 15C, Relative ASTM D4052 g/ml 0.85
Viscosity, Kinematic 100C ASTM D445 mm²/s 11.43
Viscosity, CCS -30C (5W) ASTM D5293 cP 5860
Zinc, % wt ASTM D4951 % wt 0.0895
Calcium, % wt ASTM D4951 % wt 0.3001
Phosphorus, % wt ASTM D4951 % wt 0.0847
Viscosity Index ASTM D2270 None 169
Pour Point ASTM D97 °C -42
Flash Point, PMCC ASTM D93 °C 200
Total Base Number, TBN ASTM D2896 mg KOH/g 11.26
Ash, Sulphated ASTM D874 % wt 1.22
Its a fantastic oil for our cars and seriously doubt paying extra for the Edge 0w30 would yield any extra benefit or protection.

The Magnatec above has a good VI + FP so burn off is no issue (unless your engine is already buggered). The very high TBN should see you through your service interval easily. I also like its Kinematic Viscocity @ 100C of 11.43 mm²/s. So its not as thin as your A5/B5 oils which are <10 or the thicker Edge specs w30 which are >12

Its a great oil and way better than the guys opinion on this forum.

The Fuchs Supersyn 5w40's specs are very outdated. Not sure why the guys recommend it so often on this forum as its pretty much a budget oil. I would rather use Fuchs 5w30 range which is way better specs wise.

If i were to choose a Fuchs oil it would be the Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro Felx oil

Specs are as follows -

Specifications

ACEA C3
API SM
Dexos 2

Approvals
BMW LONGLIFE-04
MB-APPROVAL 229.51
VW 502 00/505 00/505 01

FUCHS Recommendations
ACEA A3/**
FORD M2C917-A
GM-LL-A-025
GM-LL-B-025
But even this is also a group 3 HC base oil
 

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Its a fantastic oil for our cars and seriously doubt paying extra for the Edge 0w30 would yield any extra benefit or protection.
I've just bough my Type R 2010 Fn2 so sorry of my ignorance concerning oil, but are you basing this statement purely on price, or is Castrol Magnatec Professional a better oil? Because searching around, Edge is marginal cheaper? (Edge was put in my car before i bought it!)
 

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I've just bough my Type R 2010 Fn2 so sorry of my ignorance concerning oil, but are you basing this statement purely on price, or is Castrol Magnatec Professional a better oil? Because searching around, Edge is marginal cheaper? (Edge was put in my car before i bought it!)
I wont say its better. They are very different.

The 0w30 relies on a more advanced base oil as its a true synthetic made from group 4 PAO (Polyalphaolefin). It therefore requires a less robust additive package to perform to a certain standard and are generally "easier" on emission systems for that reason. You therefore have a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities.

The 5w30 Magnatec however is a Group 3 oil , that is an extremely refined mineral oil.Group 3 oils have properties approaching or equaling synthetics.
Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized mineral oils are developed by a processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high-quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005, production of GTL (gas-to-liquid) Group 3 base stocks began, the best of which perform much like polyalphaolefin. Group 3-base stocks are widely permitted to be marketed as synthetic motor oil with few exceptions where they are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" (for example, Germany).It is only at extremely low temperatures that you will start noticing a difference between group 3 and 4 oil.

Because the Group 3 isnt as "customised" as the the group 4, the group 3 often contains more additives.

NOW... which one is better, a true synthetic or a HC mineral oil ?

Pretty much neither.

It has been shown in different tests that each one performs differently on different engines as some engine wear less on PAO's and others less using HC's.

The only way you can determine whether an oil is better for your car is by performing a used oil analysis (UOA) which will tell you how your engine is wearing.

Its worth mentioning that Shell base HC oils are unique as they are produced from a slack wax which are pretty much as good as your group 4's.

With regards to our cars... Honestly, what i have seen, they are not fussy about oil at all.

It will happily run a 0w30 , 5w30 , 10w30 , 0w40 , 5w40 and 10w40 Group3 or 4 oil equally well in various climates. I have not heard or seen any oil related failures in a K20 engine ever.

And i must admit, our user manuals are super ambiguous as it says the oil can be any of the above weights and has to meet ACEA A3 or A5 specs.

I would say focus more on the change intervals. i would say stick to half of what the owners manual recommends and you will be ok.
 
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