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Discussion Starter #1
Which do you guys vote for?

I've had a 'front left wheel speed sensor open circuit' fault flag up, bought & fitted a bremi sensor from eurocarparts & the fault cleared, drove 2 seconds & it flagged back up again, only this time it's 'front left wheel speed sensor defect'.

Using delphi software the fault has been wiped 5 times but persists on popping back up after 2 seconds of driving. Ran a raw data live feed & it's reading perfect even with the fault on the dash. This leads me to think that it needs to be a genuine sensor to allow the fault to wipe?

I have read of lots of people on forums that use £15 sensors & they work. What's everybody's experience?
 

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I successfully used a cheap Japart wheel sensor on my Accord and I've read here plenty of reports from members who have happily fitted cheap sensors to Civics. Doesn't mean one that you got is okay though... there's cheap and there's.crap!

Interesting that you get 'front left wheel speed sensor defect' but the live data looks good, so the problem must be something like the resistance being too low and it's drawing too much current? Before fitting my Japart sensor I used a multimeter to compare the resistance to a genuine Honda sensor and the cheap one had a far lower resistance (but obviously not too low).
 

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last time i looked the ECP ABS sensor wasn't that cheap ( around £55 with discount code )
iv'e just replaced the front right sensor and used a 3rd party ABS sensor from one of the local motor factors ( general traffic ) and it works just fine

with you saying when you set off the abs fault returned but the live test showed it to be fine did you do a live graph readout rather than just showing speed sensor speed ( mph ) ?
it sounds like although the ABS sensor is fine the magnetic ring on the bearing might be playing up
you could try cleaning the magnetic ring i used brake cleaner and an airline to clean mine before i put everything back together

easiest way to get to it without pulling too much off the car is to jack the wheel up, remove it, undo the nut on the drive shaft and push it through as much as you can
you should have just enough gap to see the bearing and clean it
i would remove the ABS sensor first so it doesn't get damaged

if that doesn't work the ABS sensor would be going back to ECP for a replacement and if that doesn't work it looks like you are looking at a new bearing
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your replies guys.

First time round I just fitted the sensor, then after 2 seconds of driving the fault popped up.

I decided it could be crap in there so I stripped everything off & gave everything a good clean, disconnected the sensor & reconnected the sensor again but still, 2 seconds up the road it came back on again.

My friend used his delphi software to wipe the fault 5 x's but it was persistent on popping back up. He the ran a live data feed with a graph showing it reading everything perfect, we even read the right sensor to compare, it was literally perfect but the fault still wouldn't clear.

I thought buying from eurocarparts it would be a decent sensor, surely it would of been better than a cheap sensor from ebay?? Or maybe I'm missing something else??
 

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I fitted a £13 sensor from ebay to my 8g 2.2 still going strong after 4 years
you say you have used Delphi software ?
have you tried using the flight mode I think it is on Delphi to see what speeds each wheel is showing
you may have a wheel bearing starting to go or a actuator ring that is damaged or dirty which is giving false reading causing the light to come on

sorry just read you have run live data

maybe its a wiring fault somewhere
try trace the wiring back to see if theres a kink or wore wire
 

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It might be helpful if you posted the code and I looked it up for you in the official Honda Civic workshop manual?

@cosmicma makes a good point about the magnetic ring being damaged, although that should raise a specific code for 'Electrical Noise/Intermittent Interruption', which would be ABS error code 14 for the front left.

ECP do sell some crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The code was 14.1, not sure if the .1 is referring to #1 fault within 14 though?

One thing I should of mentioned ? when I took the hub off to give everything a clean I did notice the rubber backing of the abs ring had worn down at one point, not completely to the metal though (if I can attach a photo I will to help explain) but I figured as it's just a slight tear in the rubber & it's only rubber not metal that it wouldn't make a difference, am I wrong in thinking this?

I know I keep referring back to the graph that came up but it was literally perfect, no glitches at all, the car has only done 37k so I know it's not impossible for it to be wheel bearing but I would of thought that is highly unlikely & would show up on the live graph?
 

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Clutch pedal guru
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Are your tyres the same tread depth? And enough pressure? That can also throw a fault. The ABS sensor exciter ring is an interference fit on the driveshaft with no rubber backing. Any damage to the ring profile can cause a check light. Are you referring to the driveshaft CV boot in that respect?

No problems with me using non genuine ABS sensor parts either.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are your tyres the same tread depth? And enough pressure? That can also throw a fault. The ABS sensor exciter ring is an interference fit on the driveshaft with no rubber backing. Any damage to the ring profile can cause a check light. Are you referring to the driveshaft CV boot in that respect?

No problems with me using non genuine ABS sensor parts either.
Yeah dude literally just had 2 new tyres on the front.

I've been told the abs sensor is one with the wheel bearing in the hub on the front rather than part of the drive shaft? The part I'm referring to is the rubber backing of the wheel bearing.

Is there a way of attaching a photo to show the bit I'm referring to?
 

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To attach a photo use the tool button that has the two mountain peaks. The image needs to have an internet URL.
 

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DTC Troubleshooting: 12, 14, 16, 18
DTC 12, 14, 16, 18: Wheel Sensor (Electrical Noise/Intermittent Interruption)


NOTE: If the ABS indicator comes on because of electrical noise, the indicator will go off when you test-drive the vehicle at 15 km/h (10 mph) or more and noise is gone.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
3. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC 11, 13, 15, and/or 17 indicated with DTC 12, 14, 16, and/or 18 at a time?


YES - Do the DTC 11, 13, 15, and/or 17 troubleshooting.n


NO - Go to 4.


4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Check the appropriate wheel sensor and magnetic encoder on the wheel bearing or pulser on the hub bearing unit.
DTC Appropriate Wheel Sensor
12 Right-front
14 Left-front
16 Right-rear
18 Left-rear

Are they installed correctly and in good condition?


YES - Go to 6.


NO - Reinstall or replace the appropriate wheel sensor, wheel bearing, or hub bearing unit, and recheck by test-driving.n

6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
7. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
8. Test-drive the vehicle at 15 km/h (10 mph) or more.
9. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC 12, 14, 16, and/or 18 indicated?


YES - Go to 10.


NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for loose terminals between the wheel sensor 2P connector and the ABS modulator-control unit 26P connector. Refer to intermittent failures troubleshooting.n


10. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
11. Substitute a known-good wheel sensor for the appropriate wheel sensor.
12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
13. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
14. Test-drive the vehicle at 15 km/h (10 mph) or more.
15. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC 12, 14, 16, and/or 18 indicated?


YES - Check for loose terminals in the ABS modulator-control unit 26P connector. If necessary, substitute a known-good ABS modulator-control unit and retest.n


NO - Replace the original wheel sensor.n
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cheers for that dude. Next time I see my friend with the diagnostic I'll run through that guide.

Heres a link to a video on YouTube, at 3min58secs he mentions the part that is rubber & according to him is the area the sensor reads, this is the bit of rubber that has a slight chunk taken out of it, not down to the bearing though.

https://youtu.be/sb0vUeoAUF8

Do you guys think that could be what's causing the issue?
 

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Clutch pedal guru
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Wow I didn't know the sensor exciter ring is integrated in the wheel bearing seal, as in the link below, what a crappy design. In that case if the sensor is fitted correctly and everything checks out, wheel bearing change.

https://www.simple-car-answers.com/ABS-Brake-Light.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I keep going to buy a wheel bearing simply because that's the only part I can see physical damage on, the only thing that keeps stopping me is the fact I've seen a live graph reading it perfectly.

I am so confused right now! ?
 

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I keep going to buy a wheel bearing simply because that's the only part I can see physical damage on, the only thing that keeps stopping me is the fact I've seen a live graph reading it perfectly.

I am so confused right now! ?
If it's damaged on that integrated seal face it won't be reading quite properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I keep going to buy a wheel bearing simply because that's the only part I can see physical damage on, the only thing that keeps stopping me is the fact I've seen a live graph reading it perfectly.

I am so confused right now! ?
If it's damaged on that integrated seal face it won't be reading quite properly.
That's the thing though, it was ? I compared to the right side sensor & they were both exactly the same.

I'd of thought it would of flagged up a fault referring to the abs ring/wheel bearing rather than wheel speed sensor defect too
 

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I'm saying yes you'll be getting a reading from it, but it might not be quite what the ECU is looking for and at the correct timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah it could be. Tbh the wheel bearing is a lot cheaper than a genuine sensor & if the problem persists I will just take this sensor back to ecp & ask for a new one
 
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