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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've been Registered on here for a long time but sold the 57 Civic a while back. Now back in one this time with a 2015 1.6 diesel engine but this time its the Mrs car.
After several searches on how to change the fuel filter it appears not many many people have attempted the service on this engine or haven't posted a how to?

Long story short purchased a 3 year old car with 67,000 miles with Full Honda service history. One of my habits is going over the car once I have got it home.
To my surprise this car has the so called full Honda history, after inspecting the air filter and pollen filter it looked untouched since new not exaggerating either disgusting is being polite.
Ordered the Major service kit from Cox motor parts all in Major service kit £124. (Oil filter and 5 litres of oil, fuel filter, pollen filter, air filter, sump plug washer)


Tools
Ramps and axle stands
Ratchet 10mm socket
17mm Socket Oil sump plug
Extension bar
Posi drive scewdriver
Oil filter removal tool
Brake cleaner to wipe away any old oil

First of all whilst your hands are clean I would suggest replacing:
The air filter easily accessible 4/5 clips holding the box in place lift out the old one & in with the new.
Pollen filter is behind the glove box give it some gentle force and it will come out you will clearly see the long plastic clip cover for the pollen filter again pull out the old & insert new one re-fit cover.

Get the car on ramps & support it on axle stands & chock the rear wheels just incase your handbrake decides to fail, as you cant remove the oil filter or the fuel filter as there is no clearance. Unlike the 8th Gen where you don't need to go under the car with this 1.6 diesel engine you have to go under the car.

Remove the 8 posi driver screws for the inspection aluminium plate/cover and you will see the oil filter above the oil filter behind the drive shaft is the fuel filter.
If you plan only changing the oil warm the engine up before you drop the old oil out, 17mm socket for the sump plug and the oil filter can cause a mess so have cardboard or cloth ready to clean up.
Refit the oil filter before doing so apply a little bit of oil around the rubber seal or if you want to be a pro insert fresh oil into the new oil filter and gently screw back on hand tight usually does the trick.

Fuel filter I suggest you have a full tank of fuel before attempting this to prevent any air locks and remember if you do manage to fit the new fuel filter do not start it right away prime the fuel pump by turning the ignition at least 5-6 times maybe more. In order to remove the fuel filter you will need to remove the bracket surrounding the oil filter x2 10mm bolts careful it doesn't drop on your face. Then using your long ratchet and a phone light you will see the x2 10mm bolts holding the fuel filter in place remove them, you can then move the fuel filter around but not by much.
OEM Fuel filter is MAHLE, now the challenging bit is removing the retaining clips its very difficult due to access I inserted my right arm through the lower control arm with a plier and left hand holding the filter remove the filter, it does make you want to give up but at this point you do want to swear, its fine to vent just make sure no kids are around. Next part is to disconnect the fuel filter sensor plug. Its best to make it come out in once piece with the fuel filter sensor attached, so once its off the car undo the plastic part at the bottom of the filter and let it drain clean the sensor well and fit it on the new sensor remember to remove the old o ring and fit the new one supplied with your new filter. Next step is to refit everything in the same order it came off (Short pipe from the top goes to the right side of the filter, & the longer pipe will fit the left side of the filter *whilst it is upside down. Yes them retaining clips can be a challenge take a small break because by now you will be annoyed with how difficult it is to access. Refit the return pipe and the feed pipe, retaining clips can be a bugger, bolt it all back in place. Check for your clearance as the drive shaft should not touch any part of the cable/filter if you refit it properly.

Try and start the engine remember to prime it a few times at this point you will have your rear clenched for the moment of truth. As soon as it starts rev it gently to allow any air to escape it may try to cut off or judder but if you give it some pedal it will prevent any air lock. Let it run for 30 seconds or so and switch off try starting again if it restarts without any hesitation mission successful
Check for leaks and listen for any funky noises. Have the breakdown firm or a friend ready (just kidding good luck)

Refit the oil filter bracket and aluminium plate and job done. Apology for not having any pics but if I can do it so can you!

Would be interesting to know what the change interval is on the fuel filter & other filters? and if there is such a tool that allows you to access the retaining clips without so much difficulty.
Any idea what main dealers charge for the major service inc fuel filter?

Hope it helps anybody who is brave enough to take on this challenge you will surly save over £100 (my guess)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A potential saving of doing the major service yourself approx £200 in labour costs?

That's plenty of reason to do it yourself, providing the invoice for genuine parts is kept in the service history nobody should argue when it comes to resale.
 

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Just to add to this - you bleed the fuel system by taking the funnel out of the boot compartment on the left side and remove the extension pipe from the funnel. Move the left front seat back and under the mat you'll see a round cover in the floor - pry it up with screwdriver. Place cover on extension pipe and place in the hole - apply pressure on the cover to push down the rod repeatedly until it becomes hard to press.

You'd also carry out that procedure if you run out of fuel.

Service Intervals

Fuel Filter 37.5k
Air Filter 25k
 

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2,063 Posts
Just to add to this - you bleed the fuel system by taking the funnel out of the boot compartment on the left side and remove the extension pipe from the funnel. Move the left front seat back and under the mat you'll see a round cover in the floor - pry it up with screwdriver. Place cover on extension pipe and place in the hole - apply pressure on the cover to push down the rod repeatedly until it becomes hard to press.

You'd also carry out that procedure if you run out of fuel.

Service Intervals

Fuel Filter 37.5k
Air Filter 25k
as long as its euro 5 euro 6 don't have the primer
 

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Ex-Pat Geordie!
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2,267 Posts
Just to add to this - you bleed the fuel system by taking the funnel out of the boot compartment on the left side and remove the extension pipe from the funnel. Move the left front seat back and under the mat you'll see a round cover in the floor - pry it up with screwdriver. Place cover on extension pipe and place in the hole - apply pressure on the cover to push down the rod repeatedly until it becomes hard to press.

You'd also carry out that procedure if you run out of fuel.

Service Intervals

Fuel Filter 37.5k
Air Filter 25k
I have it in writing from a Honda approved dealer and Honda UK that it's 37k or three years for the Air Filter... No way would I wait that long. I found this out after my car was serviced at 27k and the filter was really bad and Honda replied saying the above, 37k or 3 year. I'll be doing my own more often.
 

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Good write up I have done this very service today. It would have been easier if I found this thread before hand though! Man that fuel filter change is interesting!! Its not too bad once you get your head round it though.


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Just carried out the fuel filter change after putting it off for a year! Also did the gearbox oil as well as an oil and filter change. I did have a couple of tips around the fuel filter. I did something that might sound drastic but for a 5 min job saved me a load of hassle!

So...I took the exhaust off...now stick with me on this one. There is a pipe, about 3 foot 8n length that goes pretty much in the gap of the inspection panel where you gain access to do the oil/gear box and fuel filter. Its slap bang to the right of the sump so right under the fuel filter. There are 2 x12mm spring bolts, 2x 12mm locating nuts and 3 x 14mm nuts holding the other end of the pipe. Trust me, 5 min to take off and put back on. You end up with a lovely opening to get at the fuel filter. To stress this doesn't make it easy, but definitely easier.

Also, I had to prime the tank (push the plunger in the passenger foot well, remove the cover etc, plugged thing is in the boot). Now, it did start after priming the ignition about 8 times then died after 10 seconds or so. I would recommend priming the tank first, takes a minute and stops it throwing an engine light up! It did clear but just makes sense.
 
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