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Discussion Starter #1
I've developed over the last few days a very loud crunch, creak sound when on full lock but only when reversing and only when full lock to the right (i.e. right hand down).

I'm expecting this to be the CV joint (circa £250+fitting), but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this and what they found it to be. I would also expect it to do it when going forwards as well if it was the CV joint, but it doesn't.

It did cross my mind that it could be the Wavetrac, but again it would do it going forwards as well surely?

Any ideas?

Cheers in advance.
 

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I've developed over the last few days a very loud crunch, creak sound when on full lock but only when reversing and only when full lock to the right (i.e. right hand down).

I'm expecting this to be the CV joint (circa £250+fitting), but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this and what they found it to be. I would also expect it to do it when going forwards as well if it was the CV joint, but it doesn't.

It did cross my mind that it could be the Wavetrac, but again it would do it going forwards as well surely?

Any ideas?

Cheers in advance.
Drop links or cv joint, can't see how being full lock on one side would cause the wavetrac to creak or crunch.

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Won't be cv joint nor drop Proberbly your sub frame. Lots of us have had this go to Honda as its a known fault and they just grease them and retighten. Cv would give a constant knock when on full lock I have changed many over the years. If your drop like has already popped out its socket you would get clunks in all directions. Please let us now your findings mate.
 

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Won't be cv joint nor drop Proberbly your sub frame. Lots of us have had this go to Honda as its a known fault and they just grease them and retighten. As its known shouldn't cost you a penny if they do speak to Honda uk.
Subframe???

Wouldn't it make a noise going forward too??

Sod greasing and retighten, try the spoon rigid collar kit for front and rear subframe if that is the case.

2 birds 1 stone.

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm pretty sure it's not the sub-frame creak. That's usually on acceleration and braking, this is at a constant speed, sub 5mph.
 

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regrets his username
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I had the creak and a very slight kicking when reversing and only when full lock on the right, I got it looked at (non Honda) for the suspension rubber squeaking noise (different issue) and they found the sub frame was quite loose and tightened it up. Creak stopped but I'm noticing the kicking is back slightly, so I'm thinking the creak was sub frame and the kicking I was getting is Cv joint. My issues sound identical to yours but not as extreme, so it could be sub frame and I'm told it will come loose again so maybe the collar set is the answer. Found them on funky power they have a detailed video explaining the sub frame issue http://funkypower.co.uk/catalogue.php?make=Honda&model=ACCORD&year=03++ACCORD&level1=SUSPENSION+&+STABILITY&level2=SUB-FRAME+RIGID+COLLAR+KITS&level3=&id_product=6013
 

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I had the creak and a very slight kicking when reversing and only when full lock on the right, I got it looked at (non Honda) for the suspension rubber squeaking noise (different issue) and they found the sub frame was quite loose and tightened it up. Creak stopped but I'm noticing the kicking is back slightly, so I'm thinking the creak was sub frame and the kicking I was getting is Cv joint. My issues sound identical to yours but not as extreme, so it could be sub frame and I'm told it will come loose again so maybe the collar set is the answer. Found them on funky power they have a detailed video explaining the sub frame issue http://funkypower.co.uk/catalogue.php?make=Honda&model=ACCORD&year=03++ACCORD&level1=SUSPENSION+&+STABILITY&level2=SUB-FRAME+RIGID+COLLAR+KITS&level3=&id_product=6013
This is worth doing even if you don't have the issue yet, stops it from happening and the car will feel amazing again.

Apparently the bumping noise you hear when going over bumps and stuff is the subframe moving slightly. :-/ lol!!

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When you say full lock do you mean proper full lock (all the way until the power steering starts moaning at you) or a bit before. Can you replicate it any further away from full lock?

Can you replicate the noise when dry steering full lock to the right?


Could be your top mount and/or strut bearing starting to pack up.
 

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Reason I said sub frame I had the exact same issue turn right and went in reverse clunk. It never did it forward like others have had , went to Honda where I know some of the guys and went in to work shop where they showed me the exact problem. They put copper grease in and a new frame which was modded by Honda for that exact reason. As its a known fault which they more or less cover for free worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Like has been said, I'm starting to think it's not the CV joint now, it wouldn't just be doing it in reverse like it is.

When you say full lock do you mean proper full lock (all the way until the power steering starts moaning at you) or a bit before. Can you replicate it any further away from full lock?

Can you replicate the noise when dry steering full lock to the right?


Could be your top mount and/or strut bearing starting to pack up.
Had a go again today and it does it from full lock stop to about 1/8th to a 1/4 of a turn of the wheel.

Not following with the dry steering? :confused:

I've got some spare time in the morning, really hadn't thought about the top mounts. I'll check everything is tight from what I can see and go from there.

Strut bearing? Talk to me, what am I looking at?



Reason I said sub frame I had the exact same issue turn right and went in reverse clunk. It never did it forward like others have had , went to Honda where I know some of the guys and went in to work shop where they showed me the exact problem. They put copper grease in and a new frame which was modded by Honda for that exact reason. As its a known fault which they more or less cover for free worth a shot.
I've had the subframe re-greased as per the bulletin. Didn't know there was a mod to the subframe though. My car is a 57 reg, well out of warranty now though.

It could also be a top rubber mount from the suspension but i dont know what it is called exactly, i had the same symptoms on my car two years ago and after replacing these rubbers, all the noises went away. If its the rubbers, i dont think it will be a costly repair.
#9 on the pic above? Sounds more promising.
 

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Honda nut
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I've developed over the last few days a very loud crunch, creak sound when on full lock but only when reversing and only when full lock to the right (i.e. right hand down).

I'm expecting this to be the CV joint (circa £250+fitting), but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this and what they found it to be. I would also expect it to do it when going forwards as well if it was the CV joint, but it doesn't.

It did cross my mind that it could be the Wavetrac, but again it would do it going forwards as well surely?

Any ideas?

Cheers in advance.
loxy I just had this exact same problem ,only started after I had my spacers and frs done ,took it back to the garage and it was a loose eibach camber bolt now its fine .it might be a loose subframe which I hear is a known problem I think if was drop links you would have alot of play in the steering wheel ..
 

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Like has been said, I'm starting to think it's not the CV joint now, it wouldn't just be doing it in reverse like it is.



Had a go again today and it does it from full lock stop to about 1/8th to a 1/4 of a turn of the wheel.

Not following with the dry steering? :confused:

I've got some spare time in the morning, really hadn't thought about the top mounts. I'll check everything is tight from what I can see and go from there.

Strut bearing? Talk to me, what am I looking at?



What do you mean your not following with the dry steering mate? Can you replicate the noise when you are stationary, engine on and turning the steering wheel full lock to full lock?

As above No.10 is the strut bearing, No.11 is the strut mount. However, after thinking about it if it was your bearing I would have thought you'd get this popping/twanging noise more than a creak.

Fourthdisciple might be on to something with the camber bolt being slightly loose. Might be worth getting a torque wrench on it to make sure it's okay ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The camber bolts should be on tight.

I had a problem about a month ago where the camber bolts kept moving and losing camber, it's got a washer on it now because the theory was that the nut was reaching the end of the thread and not tightening up fully and the washer is there to space it out. They've also been done up over the recommended torque setting to make sure they don't move. I'll still have a gander and see if they are on tight.

I didn't know what you meant by dry steering Parsco, I didn't know whether you meant stationary or without the engine running. No it doesn't do it when stationary.

It's looking like subframe, top mount or the bearing then. :rolleyes:
 

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If you're not getting the noise when dry steering then I would say that the bearings and top mounts are okay.

When you are dry steering you are putting the most pressure on those components so no noise on dry steer all okay ;)

I would say that it's going to one of the following:

- Subframe
- Camber bolt slightly loose
- Spring unseated slightly (should be able to visually inspect this with wheel off)
- Track rod end on it's way out (to test, take wheel off and grab hold of the track rod end and see if there is any play up and down and side to side. You should be able to twist it but not move it in any other direction)

Let us know how you get on ;)
 

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I'LL NEVER WALK ALONE
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didn't you have the subframe problem looked at a while back john?

i do rememmber speaking to you about it
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you're not getting the noise when dry steering then I would say that the bearings and top mounts are okay.

When you are dry steering you are putting the most pressure on those components so no noise on dry steer all okay ;)

I would say that it's going to one of the following:

- Subframe
- Camber bolt slightly loose
- Spring unseated slightly (should be able to visually inspect this with wheel off)
- Track rod end on it's way out (to test, take wheel off and grab hold of the track rod end and see if there is any play up and down and side to side. You should be able to twist it but not move it in any other direction)

Let us know how you get on ;)
Jobs for the morning. You're a good 'un! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
didn't you have the subframe problem looked at a while back john?

i do rememmber speaking to you about it
Aye I did. It's still entirely possible there is a bolt loose somewhere. I do chuck it about a bit and it's been to the Ring and Spa since.
 
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