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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is this a big no no? I have read about air born particles settling on a car after washing and drying.
Therefore further adding to swirl marks once on the machine pad rather than reducing them.

I dont have a garage anymore as its been converted into a room.

So what are my options or am i ok to polish outside?

Thanks
 

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Of course you can mate, in an ideal world we would all like to have an indoor unit or something like the pros do, you could maybe invest in a pop up gazebo like I have but just go for it mate no probs unless it raining of course. You will still achieve good results with the right pad/polish combo but take your time and work in 2x2 areas at a time.
 

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Of course you can mate, in an ideal world we would all like to have an indoor unit or something like the pros do, you could maybe invest in a pop up gazebo like I have but just go for it mate no probs unless it raining of course. You will still achieve good results with the right pad/polish combo but take your time and work in 2x2 areas at a time.
Wayne is possibly going to demonstrate this to my car soon...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Of course you can mate, in an ideal world we would all like to have an indoor unit or something like the pros do, you could maybe invest in a pop up gazebo like I have but just go for it mate no probs unless it raining of course. You will still achieve good results with the right pad/polish combo but take your time and work in 2x2 areas at a time.
I havnt tried any paint correction on this CW CTR as yet so keen to give it a go in the spring.

Will these pads and polish combo work for light swirls?

Das6 DA, 3M ultrafina polish (due to soft paint) applied with a 3m yellow pad, IPA panel wipe down followed by dodo juice lime prime with a blue 3m finishing pad. Chemical guys jetseal then applied with a blue hex logic pad or by hand. Dodo juice light fantastic applied with UFO applicator or Dodo supernatural finger mitt.

How does that sound?
 

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FESTOOLIGAN
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Polishihng outside its ok but you have to avoid very hot days if you don't want your compound to get dry all time and use more product.
Your combo is very good but you have to know that lime prime dries quick and need only few passes with low speed and finishing pad as you use it.
IMO is better to apply sealants and glazes with hand in thin layers so you ll be sure you have covered the 100% of surface.
Dodo waxes except SNH do not have great durability so its better to use two layers of jetseal about an hour between and even better use dodo next day
Good luck
 

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As Kotsos states DJ wax is not very durable, particularly this time of year, where rewaxing might be difficult.
Some Collinite ...or DJ Supernatural Hybrid..or Bilt Hamber Finis Wax are certainly a better option to maintain your LSP
 

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I would ditch the lime prime as its very oily, after your polishing stage do your ipa wipedown then go straight to the jetseal as your paintwork will be squeaky clean and great for your jet seal to bond to

Don't forget though it's all in the prep first so Detarring, clay, ironx first
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. Yea I'm aware of the two bucket washing method and claying before any correction.

The car has some wax on at the moment as it still beads very well, so what's the best product to strip everything off the car ready to start again?
 

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Thanks guys. Yea I'm aware of the two bucket washing method and claying before any correction.

The car has some wax on at the moment as it still beads very well, so what's the best product to strip everything off the car ready to start again?
Use a bucket of fairy liquid with a bit of all purpose cleaner in it and that will strip everything for you ready for your prep work
 

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haterz gonna hate
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Combo sounds good! Only 2-3 passes with the lime prime required. It works similar to a glaze anyway, seeing though it contains fillers :)

I would apply a layer of sealant first, then about 2hrs later apply a layer of the DJ wax. This should then be good for about 4mths or so, depending which wax you opt for - the sealant will help protect the paintwork for longer, as you would typically expect only about 2mths of protection from a DJ wax (the SNH lasts longer).

Regarding the stripping of the wax, I can't say I'm a fan of using products like fairy liquid as it is actually quite abrasive! In any event, this isn't going to be an issue as you are polishing anyway - so when you prep the paint, the claying and other decontamination processes seriously reduce the existing protection, and then when you polish you remove it completely anyway! So no need to worry about this aspect of your task. :D
 
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