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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It arrived today, after ordering (by 3pm) yesterday.

Royal Mail special delivery

Well packaged - basically a medium duty jiffy bag, but there is nothing to get squished, so more than up to the job :)

The little black dongle in the middle is to be used if you have to send the box back for re-mapping (if you need to following, say, engine mods, bigger turbo or whatever).

Could also be used to set the car back to standard tune when you take it in for a service, if you wanted to :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
To install

first, remove the engine cover by undoing these 4 nuts.
You will need a 10mm socket

Do NOT drop them!
They are nuts, NOT bolts so be careful.

No need to remove the washers at this point, they come off with the cover quite nicely :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
and this is what is underneath

The 2.2 engine - naked! :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
unplug the plug

now the scary bit starts...

Make sure the engine is OFF!

Unplug this plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
and then

plug the new loom in.

It only fits one way, so even I couldn't get it wrong :D

One end plugs into the female, other end into the male - creating a T piece.

It's obvious when you come to do it LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
almost done

run the remaining part of the new loom (the 'I' part of the 'T' if you like) to wherever you want to put the box.

After poking around, I went for the side of the battery box - avoids anything hot or moving :)

Using heavy duty Velcro (not supplied), I stuck it to the side, and used a zip tie for extra security.

Make sure it's somewhere you can get at the jumpers! (see next post)

I've arrowed the connectors again in this pic for a wider view
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
finally

Check it works!

Start the engine and make sure the engine warning light goes OUT

If it doesn't, it's blindingly obvious - a HUGE 'Check Engine' warning comes up, cured by turning off, checking everything and trying again. It can happen if the 'map' is too 'strong' - see next post.

If it doesn't start, something is not plugged in properly.

Turn it all off, check the connections, leave it a couple of minutes (to sort itself out - honestly!) and try again


If all is well, you're ready to go for a spin :D

You may or may not want to replace the engine cover now, or later :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maps and tweaking

The box comes with 4 'maps'

each map alters how much fuel is delivered, and when - don't ask me any more questions, that's as technical as I get LOL

The two RED jumpers in the pic determine which map is 'loaded'

To change maps, simply undo the 2 star bolts (not sure what size head sorry - it was the smallest one I had)
Move jumpers - small tweezers or long nails required :)
Job done

The BLUE jumper allows you to 'tweak' the map (no, I don't know how this works either!) by + / - 30% in 10% increments

You therefore get 7 variations per map, 4 maps = 28 :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Overall Fitting

This really IS a 30 minute job - MAX

And most of that was spent trying to work out where to put the box :D

Very, VERY simple to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Results

So far...

Andrew is able to write his own custom maps onto the box.
He originally had 4 standand maps from the box manufacturer, but has used his experiance to modify them.

Mine came (after a chat with Andrew) with the following 4 maps

1) The last one he sent to the previous guinea pig Civic Owner
2) Standard map from box manufacturer
3) 2nd standard map
4) A pre-tweaked version of 1) - potentially allowing even further tweaking

Map 4 was 'loaded' on arrival

Unfortunately, whilst the car started with that map, even just idling, the Check Engine light came on :(

Turned off, and set to map 1)

All fine :)


Only had a quick blast so far through traffic and couple of miles up the dual carriageway and back.

Initial reactions are that the car does have more 'go' - but that there is a slight lag before it kicks in.

But the true test will happen tomorrow on the Rolling Road, where I'll be trying as many of the maps as I can :D
 

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Smell My Cheese!
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So???? How does it run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
LOL - you type too SLOOOOOW Rich! :lol:


Actually, I spent 5 mins writing that up, then realised I'd missed out the 'overall fitting' post.

The the results post was a quick cut and paste :wink:
 

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TTDegs said:
LOL - you type too SLOOOOOW Rich! :lol:


Actually, I spent 5 mins writing that up, then realised I'd missed out the 'overall fitting' post.

The the results post was a quick cut and paste :wink:
There was only seconds in it, posted at exactly the same time!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It was too good an oportunity to miss, I do apologise Rich :D
 

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As I mentioned in the other thread, and I thought might be the case, the box just plugs into the fuel temp sensor on the fuel rail. On a modern diesel engine, the accelerator pedal just sends a signal to the ECU to inject more fuel, and the ECU decides how much fuel to add and when to add it based on the inputs from various sensors, such as the fuel temp sensor, throttle pedal, engine rpm etc. To make more power, all you ave to do is add more fuel to the engine, but if you add too much, you get big black clouds of soot out the exhaust...

The way the tuning box works is that it replaces the signal from the fuel temp sensor with a value, which is fixed by the jumper links on the box. In simple terms, the fuel temp sensor is a thermistor, so it's resistance changes with heat. If fuel is hotter, it's less dense, so the ECU adds more of it, and the engine runs richer. If we unplug the sensor, and just put a fixed resistance in it's place, so the ECU thinks the fuel is at say 80 degrees, it will add more fuel, and the car will make more power. This is how the tuning boxes on pretty much all common rail diesel engines work, it's very simple, and does 'work' of sorts. You will gain power and torque, but there is no 'mapping', you're simply sending a fixed fuel temperature to the ECU, or possibly altering the original signal on a percentage basis. This means the engine might run richer at some revs and leaner at others, and will always run richer on light thottle positions than it would without the box fitted, so it will hurt economy, although that depends more than anything on driving style.

When I get some time, I'll have a look at the sensor on the CIvic, and see if I can dig out some specs on it, it may be I can do a DIY guide on how to make your own box, as it's pretty simple. Personally, I feel that a proper remap is streets ahead of this as a tuning option, however nobody seems to do a plug in remap via the diagnostic port, although it must be possible, as Honda can seemingly do it during a service.
 

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323GT-R said:
As I mentioned in the other thread, and I thought might be the case, the box just plugs into the fuel temp sensor on the fuel rail.
No. It is not correct. Some boxes for TDi IP-engines work like you descripe, but a box like the one in this tread works by adjusting the injection pressure. The box is installed on the pressure sensor on the commonrail bar and "fools" the ECU to think the pressure is too low and therefore increase the pressure. This in one way of tuning commonrail-engines, adjusting the opening length of the injectors is another way. By raising the pressure it is possible to gain more power without a lot of black smoke because the fuel burn a lot better when it is injected at a higher pressure.
The first commonrail-engines worked with a pressure of 1350 bars. The newest work with 1800 bars.
 

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323GT-R said:
however nobody seems to do a plug in remap via the diagnostic port
The superchips job I have is a re-map via the diagnostic port, or so the dealer told me. The only problem with this seems to be that the dealer can overwrite the superchips map at a service, and it can cost up to £25 to get superchips to re-apply their own map.

TT, nicely documented installation of the tuning box! Looking forward to the RR results.
 

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Pottsy said:
323GT-R said:
.................................................

TT, nicely documented installation of the tuning box! Looking forward to the RR results.
Am I supposed to be doing something then??

Enjoy the Rolling Road today Mr TT Sir, good luck!!
 

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AFAIK (not an expert ono diesel engines tho), what those boxes actually do is - as already said - pump more fuel, but also raising turbo boost pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
quick reply for the moment, awaiting email with the graphs in...


First the good news!

Standard my car was pushing out 149 of our British Horse's worth of power :D

I then ran through the supplied maps, and did get some increases - although not quite as much as hoped.

Phoned dieseltuning, and after some to-ing and fro-ing, we discovered that 3 of the maps had been mis-set, using a maximum of 3500 revs - which didn't help matters.

It looks like it's going in the right direction, and I'm confident that there is more to come, but at the moment I'm not seeing fantastic results, just fairly good ones.

Will post up exact figures and dyno graphs when they arrive - should be later this afternoon.

In the mean time, the box is going back to have some more maps loaded, ready to try again.



From what my guy told me (and he makes part of his living by running the rolling road at his tuning centre), these boxes do indeed play with the fuelling - pressure and timing.
Nowt to do with the turbo tho.
 
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