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Both weights quoted were for the bare caliper. No mounting hardware or pads. The Spoon monoblocks come with radial mount adaptors.
100g a side, even unsprung is pretty insignificant given the performance advantage you’ll get fitting the Brembos over the Spoons
 

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Sorry for the side question in this discussion - is there any rebuild kits for Spoon calipers available to purchase? I know there is some for Megane RS kit, but sooner or later it will have to be done and paying few hundred to rebuild calipers is not something I'm looking forward to do.
 

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Both weights quoted were for the bare caliper. No mounting hardware or pads. The Spoon monoblocks come with radial mount adaptors.
100g a side, even unsprung is pretty insignificant given the performance advantage you’ll get fitting the Brembos over the Spoons
I remember standing in a very well respected tuners workshop with a set of DC5 Brembos... he was of the opinion they probably wont be much different as they were built to OEM specs. And if I wanted the best performance I should try a kit designed for hard use and select the pads to suit road and track. AP / Brembo GT, he said stay away from Stoptech as the brackets can break.



*taken from the linked article below.

The Spoon Calipers are tried and tested. And definitely out perform the OEM Megane Brembos... (as fitted to a friends trophy)

So the real question is, how were the brackets tested on the megane brembo kit? Have they passed the test of time.. and uk Winters?

Also here’s a pretty interesting article from brembo themselves..
https://blog.racetechnologies.com/2015/03/17/can-i-use-subaru-wrx-sti-brembo-calipers-on-my-scion-fr-s-or-subaru-brz/

Looking at it, a budget brake kit would be the Mk8 Accord twin piston callipers with good pads and the 320mm x 30mm discs.


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Sorry for the side question in this discussion - is there any rebuild kits for Spoon calipers available to purchase? I know there is some for Megane RS kit, but sooner or later it will have to be done and paying few hundred to rebuild calipers is not something I'm looking forward to do.
Yes you can buy new pistons and rebuild kits for them:
https://www.spoonsports.eu/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake



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Hey Don,

Loads of questions for you.
  • What are the specs of your pistons and rods?
  • Are you able to use the full 50° VTC ? or have you replaced the timing gear with a smaller one?
  • Are you tuning with Hondata or ECUTEK?
  • What rev limit are you looking to run and are the cams sized for that?
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Hey Don,

Loads of questions for you.
  • What are the specs of your pistons and rods?
  • Are you able to use the full 50° VTC ? or have you replaced the timing gear with a smaller one?
  • Are you tuning with Hondata or ECUTEK?
  • What rev limit are you looking to run and are the cams sized for that?
Hi Bro,
•My specs for my piston and rods are, Forged omega pistons - high compression 12:5.1 and 87.5mm,Forged Brian crower sportsman rods.
•I have been able to use my 50° VTC Intake cam gear and have adjustable exhaust cam gear.
• I am using Hondata as i have a basemap for my application and i want to understand hondata myself once its up and running ,and fit traction control at a later date. I know ECUTEK has traction control function standard, but i want to be able to do flash tuning competently and when i do another build ill go with a standalone ecu.
• My rev limit is set at 8500 when i looked through my basemap calbaration, but will datalog it and send to CivicRSA to fine tune after and maybe altered. The cams would rev alot higher but dont wanna be stupid and have to refresh engine after a couple thousand miles, I want it to last a while 🤣
• VTEC kicks in at 4500 rpm
 

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Discussion Starter #108
So just a quick update on where im at on the build ,so i had a bit of a issue with snapped bolts from my b-pipe /catback. With the thread rusted into cat. As i have a problem with access due to working on axle stands, so had to get whole cat off the car to get the grips on the bolts after getting heat on them grrrr. That sorted brakes bled , engine primed ( crank angle sensor, fuel line , spark plugs removed). Getting oil pressure light go off PHEW. Installed flashpro and uploaded basemap, started it up and (y)(y)(y) yes kicked over as soon as oil pressure was achieved them after around a minute of run time , error code p0341 popped up. Turned off straight away and after a few calls realised the problem, as when i timed up my cams i havent adjusted my trigger wheels bang on . I've pulled the rocker cover and this is the case, so on Thursday/Friday will able to sort it as im on 12hr shifts at the mo. Roll on Thursday and i will post a video on first run-in.👊🏽
 

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Bet your heart stopped when you got the camshaft position error.. glad to hear its a relatively easy fix. flashpro is great when it doubles up as a fault code reader.

I had a similar problem when I fitted my first exhaust, the studs on the cat snapped. luckily it was at grinspeed, so he just drilled them out on the ramp and fitted bolts.

Tell work they can wait, due to quarantine restrictions and get the car moving! 😂🤣😁
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Bet your heart stopped when you got the camshaft position error.. glad to hear its a relatively easy fix. flashpro is great when it doubles up as a fault code reader.

I had a similar problem when I fitted my first exhaust, the studs on the cat snapped. luckily it was at grinspeed, so he just drilled them out on the ramp and fitted bolts.

Tell work they can wait, due to quarantine restrictions and get the car moving! 😂🤣😁
It sure did bro , what made it even worse is that i had a bellow of smoke coming from the engine bay. But was just the titanium heat tape smoking up 🤣🤣.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Hi all , its been a while since my last post due to some issues caused by some idiot(me). Well so here goes as i had posted previously that i had cam sensor fault and a slight oil leak , so i found with my cam faults was that i just needed to grind approx 1-2mm off both trigger wheels to line up correctly and this cleared my fault. Now to the slight oil leak so after checking several times found it was coming from the oil pressure switch,so i replaced it and still leaking then realise some nugget had overtightened it and stripped the thread in the block😭😭😭😭. So had to pull the damn thing strip down to block and get a sleeve put in. I have now refitted and running with no leaks 😁,run the engine varying rpm 1500-2500, 2500-3000. Got it over too my local garage for mot on saturday (pass). I have just got to wait till friday to get my alignment done as it is terrible and dont wanna drive about until its done as i dont wanna wreck my new tie rods. Once done a trip to an exhaust shop to get some heat on my exhaust mani to get clearance lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
How come you had to grind the trigger wheel? Is this due to the adjustable exhaust cam gear?

No torque wrench??
Cant wait for the video, is it mapped yet?
had to adjust trigger wheels due to advance on intake and retard exhaust.
Lol yes bro have a torque wrench its a nice fancy digital one with angle option but the oil pressure switch is a 24mm socket with a 8mm tapered thread and couldnt fit socket on as it has a connector before you get to 24mm socket and on fitting didnt have a deep socket. which i made sure a purchased when rebuilding it.
I have a base map i just have to get this alignment done before i go out for 20-50km drive at varied rpm to ensure pistons seat and at the same time record datalog and get a revision done on basemap. Also have dyno booked in on 17th for final tune and the most important thing DYNO RESULTS LOL.
 
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