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These look useful thanks - I’ll get a set of those for toolbox.

Going to give the grinder a shot as I’ve often come across scenarios where I could have used one to make life easier. Will do plenty of practise and make sure I’m protected, and hopefully I won’t lose a finger...
They are usefull, good bit of kit if used right. Tend to use them if you need to protect the thread to be reused again. But come in handy in situations. Grinder is easier, just some people are wary of them.
 

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@Hemingway1975 which ones you have? The ones I see on ebay always look like they are cast ali on the outside and I wonder how well they work? I expect the outside to fail before the nut would.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yeah the ones I see don’t get the best reviews so a recommendation would be great thanks
 
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Teng, sealey they are top off the range and the costly ones for full kit(pay for the name also) kennedy are o.k, I have the teng set. They made out of mild steel and can crack lower grade metal nuts and up to grade 8.8 which probably the nuts are on the car or lower. I have in fact cracked a few 5/8" 2H nut with the teng set and that is a beast off a nut. They do upto a 27mm 8.8 grade nut. Like I said, if used correctly the pull you out of **** and a great piece if kit to add to any tool kit. Not many use them as its easy to reach for a grinder or bottles to cut/burn them off. Another good piece of kit is the studd extractor, its fantastic, but I use these daily so im bias really than using a grinder.
 

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I had the exact same problem with mine, the hex hole just disintegrated when I put rotational force on the nut leaving it all spinning.
I soaked the area with release spray, gripped the end of the threaded shaft as far out from the nut as I could, as tightly as I could with mole grips this allowed me to loosen the nut, when I got the nut loosened enough I then moved the mole grips to the other side of the nut in order to get the nut off the end of the shaft. It took a bit of perseverance and brute force and I may have just got lucky, but I had to (and managed to) do it on both ends of both drop links. worth a try if you haven't already sorted it, especially if your concerned about taking the angle grinder to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I had the exact same problem with mine, the hex hole just disintegrated when I put rotational force on the nut leaving it all spinning.
I soaked the area with release spray, gripped the end of the threaded shaft as far out from the nut as I could, as tightly as I could with mole grips this allowed me to loosen the nut, when I got the nut loosened enough I then moved the mole grips to the other side of the nut in order to get the nut off the end of the shaft. It took a bit of perseverance and brute force and I may have just got lucky, but I had to (and managed to) do it on both ends of both drop links. worth a try if you haven't already sorted it, especially if your concerned about taking the angle grinder to it.
Thanks - I’ve ordered a grinder but I think I’ll give it a go again using your method now that I know what I’m up against. I ran out of time at the weekend.

I’ve also ordered some Plus Gas; I was using the WD40 rust remover version but from reading through past threads Plus Gas seems to be superior.
 

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I used normal wd40 because that's what I had, but I've also heard Plusgas is better.
If you've got the grinder you could also grind two flats on the side of the threaded shaft, this would give you something better to grip onto and help stop it spinning while you loosen the nut.
 

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I wouldnt grip the end of the threaded shaft with mole grips, think micklundy might of got lucky. You will just totally knacker the threads and the nut wont be coming off or the nut will just pick up on the damage threads caused by the mole grips and be nightmare to get off. What I would do, is cut the threaded shaft of to the top of the nut close as you can get it, then cut straight down the middle of the threaded shaft and nut and this will then split the nut. Just give it a crack with a hammer and chisel after and the nut should come away in half, or if you fell confident cut straight through like discribed before.
First though carry out a few cuts on some old pieces with the grinder to build confidence and feel how the grinder reacts, what ever you do, dont grind with a cutting disc, it will shatter. Look at the job, assess the safest option, then just take your time, before you know it will be done, please wear safety glasses. Bloody hell feel like a school teacher lol. Safety always comes first, accidents only happen with the 3ps are carried out,piss, poor, preperation. That was always drilled in to me when I was learning, safety first, definatly with grinders.
 

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It did knacker the thread but the nut recut the thread as I wound it out, I didnt have any other way to get it off at the time, so was sort of forced into trying this, but it did work for me 4 times in a row.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I wouldnt grip the end of the threaded shaft with mole grips, think micklundy might of got lucky. You will just totally knacker the threads and the nut wont be coming off or the nut will just pick up on the damage threads caused by the mole grips and be nightmare to get off. What I would do, is cut the threaded shaft of to the top of the nut close as you can get it, then cut straight down the middle of the threaded shaft and nut and this will then split the nut. Just give it a crack with a hammer and chisel after and the nut should come away in half, or if you fell confident cut straight through like discribed before.
First though carry out a few cuts on some old pieces with the grinder to build confidence and feel how the grinder reacts, what ever you do, dont grind with a cutting disc, it will shatter. Look at the job, assess the safest option, then just take your time, before you know it will be done, please wear safety glasses. Bloody hell feel like a school teacher lol. Safety always comes first, accidents only happen with the 3ps are carried out,piss, poor, preperation. That was always drilled in to me when I was learning, safety first, definatly with grinders.
Thanks - that’s good advice, especially about not grinding with a cutting disc.

I’ve ordered some safety goggles and have a dust mask and ear plugs already. I’m just going to wear my regular mechanics gloves, I read not to wear big bulky gloves as they can inhibit hand control, or correct me if im

I’ve also ordered a small workbench and a vice, so will get plenty of practise in before attempting anything on the car. My biggest problem is getting space outside my house to run power to!


It did knacker the thread but the nut recut the thread as I wound it out, I didnt have any other way to get it off at the time, so was sort of forced into trying this, but it did work for me 4 times in a row.
I’ll use some common sense at the time - luckily it’s only one drop link I need to get off and I’m not in any rush. I’m replacing the struts so minimising the amount of possible issues on the day; I was able to remove the lower mounting bolts ok after a lot of cleaning as it’s an original shock.
 

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To remove my drop links, I cut the drop link in half. Lever the arm off the ball. Grip said ball with a pair of mole grips and then undo the nut with a socket. Seems the easiest way to remove them for me. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So I bought these cutting discs with the grinder - I’m assuming they’ll be up to the job? Was expecting them to be thinner for some reason.
 

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Agreed. Those discs will be fine.

At least wear eye protection and ideally a face shield when grinding. Sparks in your eyes is no fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yeah I’ve bought those - I certainly look weird with it all on!

I bought a Dewalt grinder but from reading the instructions I have the wrong guard - apparently I have a type 27 guard but I need a type 1 for flat cutting disks. I asked on another forum and 2 people replied saying they’d never heard of that,do any of you know anything about this?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Have you tried the disc on the grinder?
Yes it fits fine - the guard it suggests I use has a closed bottom half on both sides
 

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No never heard that concerning a grinder. That's just ridiculous asking somebody to carry that operation out every time you require to cut or grind for the change off disc. If that's the case send it back and get a Bosch Professional GWS 9-115S, yes its pricey but a good piece of kit £79.99 screwfix, that takes the discs you have and the guard is quick release and can be positioned anywhere around the disc without removing it and has 2 point handle change position, also takes a multitude off different cutting discs. Unfortunately in this instance you get what you pay for concerning these type of tools.
 

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Looks like the type 27 covers less of the disc than the type 1, but even the type 1 covers as much of the disc as normal on a grinder. My grinder has less cover of the disc than either type.

Keep the guard between you and the wheel. You’re cutting 2 nuts off here, not cutting up huge sections of thick steel plate.

De Walt is a good make in my opinion.
 
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