2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

Premium Member
2,280 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've had the Eibach springs on for a few weeks now, with plenty of mixed driving - From rough A-roads to "maximum attack" on country lanes - And for ~£100 from Autodoc, I'm most pleased with the return on investment!

The fun part!
You'll need basic hand tools (A big Halfords ratchet set will do), spring compressors and an 18mm swan neck spanner to remove the top mount nut.
Good reference:
Rear (Easy bit!)
The rear is very simple.
  1. Loosen rear wheel nuts
  2. Jack rear of car using tow hook
  3. Place jack stands under rear sill jacking point
  4. Remove rear wheels (This gives some more clearence to remove the springs.)
  5. Open the boot, and pop open the two damper bolt covers
  6. Remove the damper top mount bolts (You can also remove the lower bolts, but the top mounts are more easily accessed and removed IMO, So that's the route I took.)
  7. Find a friend
  8. Have your assistant push down on the rear axle (on the brake disc or similar)
  9. As they do this, The spring will pop out.
  10. Ease the spring out, and remove the rubber mounting doodads
  11. Attach these to the new springs
  12. Reinsert the springs; Be sure to match up the small rubber notches on the rubber bottom-mounts
  13. Repeat for the other side
  14. Guide the dampers back into the provided tubes once installation is complete (You'll probably need to push the axle down and just pop them back into the tubes)
  15. Then ,have your assistant push the axle up whilst you re-secure the damper top mounts.
  16. Put wheels back on, Put car down.
Not too hard! I've got a few pictures, but it's probably easier to refer to the MCM video above, as it's very similar.

Front (Long bit!)
I'll start with the assumption you've got the front of the car jacked up and the wheel off.
  1. Open the bonnet; Remove the access hatches to the top mounts - It can be helpful to move the sides of the cowl, this can be done by pulling it away and down (Easier said than done)
  2. Back into the wheel well, you'll need to remove the brake line bolt and ABS wire clip.
  3. Now, unbolt the drop link
  4. Find something to support the lower control arm / brake disc etc so as to not pull the driveshafts out of the box - Bad times if that happens :) - The Eibach Box is perfect for this
  5. Now, you can undo the bolt connecting the control arm to the lower knuckle. It's the big one at the top :)
  6. Now, the lower control arm / brake disc can be set down onto the box.
  7. Unbolt the 3 14mm top mount nuts; You'll need an assitant to hold the strut so it doesn't fall straight down.
  8. Once unbolted, guide it out of the wheel arch, careful not to catch the ABS wire / brake lines.
  9. Pop the spring compressors on, and compress the spring.
  10. keep compressing until the top mount (plastic bit) is obviously loose - See MCM video above!
  11. Now, use the 18mm swan neck spanner and an allen key attachement on a wrench to undo the top mount nut. (This'll need two burly blokes and a fair amount of pent up anger, unless you've got a rattle gun to hand)
  12. Repeat for the other side, and reinstall in reverse!
  13. Get an alignment a week after fitting. (I was well chuffed, managed to set both sides to exactly -0.35deg Camber, so decided to leave it for extra cornering powers :p )
Handling impacts
For a slight sacrifice in "secondary ride", there are great gains for the car's weight control and stability - Both under cornering, and on the motorway.
It's now noticeably more stable at motorway (And beyond) speeds, feeling far more planted than stock right up to the 120mph attainable top speed. (Tested in mexico Germany :) )

Under cornering, the reduction in body roll is very noticeable - There is also a very welcome reduction in braking pitch, which makes things feel far more tied together when driving country lanes quickly.

Since the install, I'd say there has been a reduction in understeer tendancies; handling feels a bit more neutral, which is a welcome change.

As for sheer limit handling, I'd say it's added 2 - 5mph to "rounding speeds" on some of my preffered local roundabouts; Probably due both to the more confidence inspiring (Reduced) body roll and improved weight transfer feel.

Whilst an over-stiff "Sporty" suspension will have trouble keeping the wheels on the (bumpy) road, I've had no such trouble - Traction feels to be improved all over, with no issues getting the (limited amount of :p ) power down on bumpy lanes.

For reference, Wheels are the 17" Argon Alloys, with Michelin PS4 225/45/17 XL's - A fairly stiff tyre.

As mentioned above; There is a sacrifice to secondary ride - I tend to notice a few more small imperfections in the road surface, though not neccescarily in a bad way - More informed, but less wafting is the way I'd phrase it; Ideal for spirited driving. - I'm not just conflating a stiff ride with a sporty one - As above, there are big handling benefits.

On the motorway, the more stable feel is very welcoming and can make driving more relaxing, especially when lightly loaded, as the car feels less buffeted by winds and other traffic.

No fat chicks, car will scrape
I'm not the slimmest, and neither are my Parents; That being said, even 3 up with a full load in the boot I've not had any scraping issues, even when driving across rutty fields (Event parking!)

As per usual, some more aggressive slopes and speedbumps will scrape the front rubber slats, but in most cases, these are in places where they were scraping with the OEM suspension, so expected.

On some extremely hard potholes, I've managed to get the bump stops, but this is at high speed, with bad holes and little evasion - Aside from the big bump, no harm done, and I'd say it feels a little more controlled than the OEM suspension in these scenarios, probably due to the lower COG.

The big question for many!
The change isn't immediately obvious to many, which is a good thing - Doesn't look freakishly low, and doesn't draw scrutiny from trafpol etc.

For a foot test, I could previously get an entire foot upto the ankle into the arch gap; Now reduced to a more reasonable ball of the foot, depending on shoe.

If you're looking for something you can park next to, A reasonable comparison for the new rideheight is the FK2 / FK8 CTR


- This is one of the most noticeable; Unfortunately I couldn't upload my after photo of this front ISO angle. I'll have to have another go later.

- Don't worry, the lights aren't that blue to eye. It's just white balance :)
1 - 3 of 3 Posts