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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last year I haved the engine light warning in the display, and some problems with the cooling. The repair shop replaced two sensors, they told me, so all was fine again - until now. The engine light is back. But the car feels completely normal, no cooling problems or anything else.

How many sensors do the car have, that can give the engine light warning?

I have tried to disconnect the battery, to clear the warning 4 times now, and every time the warning first came back after I have drive around 25-30 km. A little strange I think.

I have borowed a OBD interface (ELM327 v1.5 USB version), but have problems to find some free software for it. The only one I could find was some primitive software called wOBD. But I managed to retreive some codes with the software:

P012A and P00

Can anyone translate the codes for me?

I also tried the demo version of ScanMaster - ELM. It gave me one code:

P2A0x (i know the last number are missing because it's only a demo version)

But thats a completely another code than wOBD gave me. Strange.


Kinds regards,
Brian
 

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Disconnecting the battery won't clear a current fault.

There's a how to in the how to section to bring the fault codes up on the display. I suggest you do that and report back the codes. There a lot of things that can bring up the MIL light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your answers. I have tried the "paper" trick, but it only show 'DTC NO', so no errors to read there.

What about the OBD codes I have posted, anyone know what it means?
 

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The codes you mention do not exist for an FK2. It might be one of these two (they're the only 2 starting with 'P012' for FK2):
DTC P0122:
TP Sensor A Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0123:
TP Sensor A Circuit High Voltage

This is about your throttle position sensor, located on the throttle pedal, or its wiring towards the engine ECU.

By the way: the paper trick you tried does only its job for body related DTC's, never for engine related dtc's. That's why you don't find them there.

Good advise: go to a Honda workshop so you know 100% sure what dtc is on. Now you're guessing and working with generic software and hardware that leads you to a turbopressure sensor on an atmospheric engine:confused:.

Some dtc's only come on after a certain mileage, because it can be considered normal that certain sensor values are sometimes out their threshold (e.g. misfires, lambdasensor, ...). If they keep on going time after time out of their normal values a dtc is created anyhow in the end.

Good luck with it! It can't be that hard to repair or find out exactly what's wrong. It might be a loose tp sensor connector....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you everyone, I will call the dealer tomorrow. i-DSI, "funny" you mention the 'TP Sensor A Circuit Low Voltage' code, because I think the battery not are to healty anymore, because when I push the start button, I can hear a relay clicking behind the dash, and the headlight and the dash lights are blinking, but the car starts every time, also here in the winter. It's starts last summer. I have told my dealer about it, and they told me it could be the battery there are a little low on power.

One more thing. ScanMaster - ELM tells me: Car battery voltage: 10.8V

That sound low, but again, can I trust the program.
 

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One more thing. ScanMaster - ELM tells me: Car battery voltage: 10.8V

That is very low. If you want peace of mind about it, you can buy cheap multi meters or battery testers if you don't trust the software. They can be very useful for diagnosing electrical problems.

By the way: the paper trick you tried does only its job for body related DTC's, never for engine related dtc's. That's why you don't find them there.
Appologies! You are correct. I just tried going through the OBD on mine and it didn't report the codes the foil trick reported.
 

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i-DSI, "funny" you mention the 'TP Sensor A Circuit Low Voltage' code, because I think the battery not are to healty anymore, ... ELM tells me: Car battery voltage: 10.8V
Hi BLN, 10,8 V is to low. +/-12,5 V is a normal voltage without load (ignition off, no lights on, not been running for some hours) for a healthy battery.
But: the "low voltage" in a DTC description has got in 99% of the cases nothing to do with your battery voltage. Remember you said the dtc only comes on after a certain mileage. An when driving, tension is 13V or higher (alternator), so not battery related.
One of the first DTC's comming on because of a low battery(start) are ABS-VSA related.
Also: it's not sure you have this DTC in your car. The generic dtc leads you nowhere and the 2 I mentioned are the only ones starting with the same letter/numbers. It's possible a Honda dealer comes with a completely different dtc.
 
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