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Yeah, this virus pandemic is a right blight. I'm steering well clear of people and my elderly relatives, they're all I care about. Personally I couldn't care if I caught it, it's just I know if I pass it to my elderly father with a serious heart condition or my grandmother it's a death sentence.

This quarantine could last another 12-13 months, due to vaccines needing testing. And the virus could mutate and need a new vaccine, another 18 months wait. I won't even start about the morons clearing the supermarkets out. :censored: :censored:

In all I've probably spent about five days so far working on the car. And I've had to change other stuff on the car and mess around removing and redoing stuff. I spent time trying to force the manifold heat shield fit, then realised it needed modifying, and couldn't find anywhere on the internet to even mention the need to do it.

Clear weather with an extra pair of hands and all the gaskets and seals, with no other complications (I found parts needing changing such as struts.) I could probably do it in three days with ease. I messed around for probably two days seeing if I could do it without dropping the subframe. Then rained off etc, nothing worse than working in the rain under a car and having the rain drip down the engine bay into your face. I actually have a chill or cold from being in the rain the other day.

But mine was important, due to blown turbo. I've also figured out mine is remapped, so a remap + split manifold probably blew the turbo. The split manifold makes the turbo work harder, apparently.
Be interesting to see how it comes on boost now. It was hit and miss most times, it'd feel really quick then hit the power a different time in about 3rd or 4th and it'd feel gutless like it had no turbo.

Once my car is done I'm in isolation as much as I can, so will have plenty of time to do my how to, which will be picture heavy and show you how to modify your heat shields.
I can’t wait to see the how to finished and at the end of the day you did it and the main dealers didn’t cop all you hard earned cash on stupid labour charge rates. many myself included gave in and paid for the job although i did give it a good go to be fair and once I spoke to my friendly mechanic and found out its impossible without removal of the subframe I realized I would have never have got it done. But know better now and now its time to change the turbo I’m more confident and reading your posts has been both reassuring and informative thanks
 

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Agree with Neil. It's this thread which has given me the confidence to have a go so big thanks to Lukey. I have a list of the parts ordered on the laptop which I will post if you could have a look for any glaring omissions. I will be re-using the subframe bolts and the exhaust bolts with the springs.

Hopefully have all the parts and I don't come across problems which need stuff I can no longer get. I cant see a big demand for me to use the car, as I'm working from home now anyway and going out is limited to food shopping.

Edit: I will be doing this on my own. Don't think my better half can be persuaded to lie under the car and fit a turbo banjo! :D
 

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Parts I have bought are listed below (except I haven't bought the exhaust joint bolts as I'm hoping to re-use). List might be useful to others anyway. The ones without part numbers I have bought non-gen parts. Manifold nuts I'm pretty sure are M10 1.25 pitch thread and I have stainless locking nuts (not the nyloc versions obviously! :D)

312135
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Parts I have bought are listed below (except I haven't bought the exhaust joint bolts as I'm hoping to re-use). List might be useful to others anyway. The ones without part numbers I have bought non-gen parts. Manifold nuts I'm pretty sure are M12 1.25 pitch thread and I have stainless locking nuts (not the nyloc versions obviously! :D)

View attachment 312135
The spring bolts will most probably be rotten and have a high chance of snapping upon removal, as do all the precat bolts etc. I was very lucky and none of the turbo studs etc snapped other than on the actual manifold.

Seriously buy yourself some WD-40 rust penetrative spray. It's a godsend on this job. And a wirebrush on the top of bolt heads that are rusty. Especially on the manifold.

All the turbo bolts and threads are horrible on the manifold as that's where the most heat is in the exhaust system. None of my exhaust studs snapped on the engine block, but I had about 3 or 4 come out with the nuts. And one of them looked like it'd cause trouble if I left it in, so I renewed it. I bought the full set of studs though as a precaution. My Honda dealer all the parts are a 48 hour wait.

For some reason the parts checker website won't work for me at the moment.

The circled red gaskets are the ones I deem need replacement.



The top circle on the oil return isn't needed unless it's leaking from the turbo or you're replacing the turbo, it should have been circled a separate colour, but it didn't change for some reason.
For changing the turbo you'll also need to go out and buy the seal for the water which sits up the front side of the turbo.

My subframe is back in, but rushing it like a complete moron I've put the steering rack and column in the wrong position, so will need to lower the subframe again and sort the column out. Mine needs tracking anyway as I've had to cut the bolts off the hub.

A full in depth guide will be up in a week or two when I've completed the job and got some more spare time to think over it.
 

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Thanks Lukey I will have a proper study. I have loads of wd40 and plusgas to help ease the nits/bolts but snapping a stud is my main concern.

I also noticed a typo in the post you quoted so I have corrected it in my post. Manifold nuts are M10 1.25 pitch (not M12) and I have tried them on my replacement manifold and they fit fine. I do need to change one of the studs in the manifold as whoever removed it snapped one. I've left it soaking in plusgas for the time being but still think it's going to be fun and games to remove. I will also give everything a 24 hour presoak in plusgas before attempting to dismantle.

Once you have your guide up I will reassess if I need any mkre parts. Just have to hope the dealers are still open and doing mail order.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Thanks Lukey I will have a proper study. I have loads of wd40 and plusgas to help ease the nits/bolts but snapping a stud is my main concern.

I also noticed a typo in the post you quoted so I have corrected it in my post. Manifold nuts are M10 1.25 pitch (not M12) and I have tried them on my replacement manifold and they fit fine. I do need to change one of the studs in the manifold as whoever removed it snapped one. I've left it soaking in plusgas for the time being but still think it's going to be fun and games to remove. I will also give everything a 24 hour presoak in plusgas before attempting to dismantle.

Once you have your guide up I will reassess if I need any more parts. Just have to hope the dealers are still open and doing mail order.
The banjo bolt themselves have a little filter inside (at least one did) for this reason personally I'd replace the whole banjo bolt. They're <£5 each IIRC.

The UK are claiming to have this Covid-19 pandemic under grips by June 14th. The only way I see this possible is to shut all air travel to and from the UK, starting soon as possible. Also the morons still visiting pubs etc every weekend. I'm even steering clear from my elderly relatives despite having no symptoms, as a precaution.

If you smoke or are classed a obese by your BMI or any health issues, especially heart & lung I'd take this pandemic very seriously, as it can and will claim your life.
 

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June is rather optimistic IMO. Me and miss Robbie have cut contact to shopping or other absolutely essential travel. We are both working from home and not seeing friends or family. It’s the only way to get it under control.
At least you're being sensible about it, unlike other IDIOTS. Visiting the seaside, congregating together FFS 😒
 

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Discussion Starter #109
At least you're being sensible about it, unlike other IDIOTS. Visiting the seaside, congregating together FFS 😒
People are selfish and think because they're <60 it won't affect them. It'll be a different story when their careless actions kill or make their elder relatives seriously ill.
In the US a family met up for a meal on or around the third of March before US lockdown, two were positive for COVID-19, I think about three of their relatives have succumbed to the virus, the family were majority clinically obese.
Italy is the second country for the eldest population in the world, hence the high death toll and a lot of the population smoke. Put this together with the young often living with the elderly is recipe for disaster.

A warning about eating bats from 2007:
(Of course what really happened was faeces and other bodily fluids from a bat came into contact with a Pangolin and this caused the crossover to humans.)


Mc Donald's has now fully closed ALL UK & Ireland stores. I feel sorry for the employees of Mc Donald's as the majority are on zero hour contracts. So they have no obligation to keep them on.

Suicides and mental health will be on the rise in the UK over these troubling times.
 

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STOP
The subject of this thread is exhaust manifold fitting time.
If you want to talk about the latest medical disasters, please start a thread on the subject.
 

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STOP
The subject of this thread is exhaust manifold fitting time.
If you want to talk about the latest medical disasters, please start a thread on the subject.
I can remedy that one. An AGE according to Lukey's experience 😉😂
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Well all shops are closed now and I need parts from breakers yard.

Mandatory closing for ALL non-emergency stores. So the cars now on the back burner, how long for, who knows.

On the bright side everything is in, minus the tie rod ends. I might go and put them in along with the drop links and wait for everything to open again. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks the restrictions are relaxed.
 

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So I thought I might aswell make a start on mine today and guess what?
Some how my wheel nut key has ran away. It’s always in my locking nut case with the nuts that came off and it’s always the first thing i put away after any job But its no where to be found
So until Honda reopens its going to have to wait and dam the weather is good
 

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Discussion Starter #115
So I thought I might aswell make a start on mine today and guess what?
Some how my wheel nut key has ran away. It’s always in my locking nut case with the nuts that came off and it’s always the first thing i put away after any job But its no where to be found
So until Honda reopens its going to have to wait and dam the weather is good
I hope you have access to a second car. I'll show you some pictures shortly of how high I had my car to drop the subframe.

Your first process is to remove your hub nuts to the drive shafts, have some zip ties knocking around, and zip tie your drive shaft on the passenger side to the front strut so it's straight as possible, when you remove it from the hub, you're way off this step yet. Or you can stress the oil seal in the gearbox and have a leak.

You want to get your steering straight as possible, mark the shaft and spline with tip-ex and lock the steering straight with either a seat belt or a bungy cord, but keep it straight and make sure it cannot move. If the steering wheel & column moves position you can damage the airbag squib. Don't lose your position on your steering rack by moving it around either, or you'll be dropping the rack and re-centring it when you go to put it back in.

Most of the work is a two person step. You shouldn't need any subframe locator pins, I've never used them and I've dropped a few subframes. You can see the clear area on the subframe where the bolt holes are etc. So kind of easy to align into place. Just keep the bolts in order, as they're all different and different length.

I'll drop you a diagram on how to remove subframe.
 

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Cheers Lukey I'm just ordering a new locknut key from Cox so I will try again when that arrives

Sent from my Bush10Nou using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #117
It's hard to judge from the camera angle and I've dropped it back on its wheels now. But it's only as high as this axle stand. Just below the max height on the jacks. The jacks aren't used to lift the car either, they are there due to rear engine mount being removed to hold the engine stable.



As for cracking your drive shaft hub nuts very extremely tight. I took the wheels off, removed the centre cap and put the wheels back on and dropped the car. And used a breaker bar and slid a scaffold bar over it. I must have spent about an hour cracking the pair of them. Careful you don't slip off, all that force will cause you an injury. I was standing on the breaker bar and everything to crack mine loose.

Here is how I zip tied the drive shaft, simple enough. I ended up doing it from the drop link bolt hole in the end.


Set your steering wheel straight and wrap a seat belt or bungy cord around it to keep it central. Failure to do this WILL damage your airbag squib behind the airbag.


Remove bolt and slightly pull the spline off the shaft, it should come out by itself when the subframe is lowered. Try not to rotate your steering rack when it's out of the car. Or you'll have to re centralise the rack. This can only be done when the steering rack is out of the car, and I've seen people mess their steering up by not putting the rack in central.



One of these bolts is up the side of the engine under the chassis rail, the first bolt in front of the steering rack. I never touched the end ball joint bolt, I've had prior experiences with them, upon removal nine times out of ten it's a replacement wishbone.



Every single bolt you remove to this subframe is different in length.
I drew my subframe out on cardboard and drew the holes, then poked the bolts through in order.

You need a precise jack that goes down slowly under the subframe. You need to drop it about 3-5 inches and disconnect the wires into the steering rack.
 

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Thanks lukey thats going to be a massive insight better than just going in chucking nuts and bolts everywhere
My lock nut key is in transit i just had confirmation so i will probably get on it tomorrow as my daughter is self isolating and i can nick her car if needs be so will be a good time to crack on with it
Thanks again
 

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Glad you found it Neil.

I have had my delivery from Honda today so think I have the bits I need. Just waiting on the exhaust spring bolts which I ordered separately later. Probably be Easter before I make a start but I don't need the car for the time being so not a bad opportunity.

My second hand manifold has a stud which has been snapped and needs replacing. It's proving a sod to get out so I have left it soaking in penetrating oil. I reckon I will lube all the nuts/bolts i can get to underneath the car at least a day before I start proper.
 

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Glad you found it Neil.

I have had my delivery from Honda today so think I have the bits I need. Just waiting on the exhaust spring bolts which I ordered separately later. Probably be Easter before I make a start but I don't need the car for the time being so not a bad opportunity.

My second hand manifold has a stud which has been snapped and needs replacing. It's proving a sod to get out so I have left it soaking in penetrating oil. I reckon I will lube all the nuts/bolts i can get to underneath the car at least a day before I start proper.
Can you get two nuts on it to tighten together then back the bottom one off thus removing it If not just keep soaking it and there’s always mole grips at the last option though
 
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