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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering an FD2 oil pump for the gains.

Can anyone advise on the following:-

1. Are vibrations bad?

2. Do I need timing chain as well (my car has 14,000 miles so seems a waste)?

3. Is this job easy enough for any competent mechanic, or do you really need to know a Honda K20 very well like the specialists?

4. Is the 5-10 bhp noticeable?

Thank you.
 

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250bhp.... finally :)
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Vibrations are fine after a couple of thousand miles.
It's not so much vibrations but resonates.

Chain isn't needed. Did chain at the same time as was coming up to 90k and it had to be taken off anyway. At 14k I wouldn't bother mate.

Easy enough but you NEED to plug the balancer shaft oil passage otherwise you'll have low oil pressure. I'd personally stick to a K20 specialist for this. There's so much to mess up like torqued bolts, sealing timing cover / sump properly etc. For what you'd save at an indie might bite you in the long run.

It's not so much the bhp gains it's the behaviour of the engine as a whole. Revs pickup and drop MUCH quicker. The car felt bloated after 7k, but afterwards it redlines far quicker IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't mind resonation too much, I find the FN2 very quiet and refined compared to my previous cars.

Vibrations are more annoying but it shouldn't be that bad as the oil pumps are in EP3s, DC5s and FD2s anyway.

If it did get that bad I could always remove one of the two engine mount inserts I have.

Good points about the specialist and getting it all exactly spot on.

I got a quote with grinspeed today, very knowledgable. He did say I don't NEED a chain at such low mileage but would advise one. This is because best practise is not to re tighten a chain after removal. It makes sense not to loosen and then re stress it. I won't need chain guides though as they are solid.

A bonus is that the valve clearances will be done saving £100. He did advise me that the FN2 oil pump was not just added due to being better for low oil and people not checking levels enough, but is also less likely to be starved from hard cornering. This is because it is located across the middle of the sump rather than one side. Although the FN2 version is still not good enough on track it is better than the FD2 version for oil pick up. So if tracking he advised sump baffle, and even with hard road use it would be a good idea.

I know what you mean about the slight bloated feeling 7k rpm plus, sums it up well. The dyno from tdi after this kit shows the gains are gradual from low revs, and therefore most significant at the top end.
 

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250bhp.... finally :)
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Forgot about the clearances, I paid Stevie to do mine then TDi did my pump the week after and got them done again as I didn't know.

True about the pump, Honda said they didn't trust British people to keep an eye on oil levels so adjusted the pump accordingly. Tegiwa have 10-15% off at the moment so best time to buy a CW baffle ;)
 

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i'm finding its a pig to get all the oil out on changes after the baffle install.
still worth having one though.
 

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250bhp.... finally :)
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4,279 Posts
Apparently grinspeed or TDi file a little bit out to make draining easier. Mine was already done when it got fitted.
 
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