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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, have a FN2 and it has no recorded history of the coolant being changed at 80K miles. Wanting to do it myself but wondering will it suffice to just drain the radiator only and add new coolant or do you have to get access to the engine block drain plug and flush then bleed etc?

Thanks
 

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i-Vtec
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Just drain from the radiator. Honda type 2 coolant is what you require to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just drain from the radiator. Honda type 2 coolant is what you require to replace.
ok thanks. As for doing a few flush cycles, is it necessary? My cooling system is running well, I was just changing it out so I have it on record that it is done.
 

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i-Vtec
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If you d a few flush cycles you will not have enough protection with the new stuff. Honda Type 2 is only available ready mixed. From the first change it s a 2 year replacement after that.
 

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My service book says change at 10 years then every 5 years after that

Good idea to get new O ring for the rad drain plug, only couple of £ from Honda - BTW Cox are doing Type 2 coolant on cheap deal, £18.13 for 5L + delivery. Still cheaper than local dealer or Halfords for generic stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My service book says change at 10 years then every 5 years after that

Good idea to get new O ring for the rad drain plug, only couple of £ from Honda - BTW Cox are doing Type 2 coolant on cheap deal, £18.13 for 5L + delivery. Still cheaper than local dealer or Halfords for generic stuff.
does it specify if it must be a flush the first time?
 

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No, even the Honda manual doesn't mention a flush.
Have a look here: Shop Manual (HONDA MOTOR Co.,Ltd.)
Only works in IE not chrome or firefox - choose your model, section to view & hit the magnifying glass top left
 

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I recently drained the FN2 coolant.
Was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to undo the plastic drain **** at the bottom of the rad. Honda must be using decent plastics, because others just crumble, hence people playing it safe and undoing the lower rad hose.
Bleeding didn't present me any problems either after following the steps from the manual.
Expansion tank is a bit of a bastid to see, need a powerful torch.

Good idea to also change the gearbox oil if there is no evidence it has ever been done.
 

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It's worth checking the spring clips that hold the hoses onto the radiator, these can get very rusty (bottom hose especially) and will be easy to swap for some stainless jubilee clips when you drain all the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I recently drained the FN2 coolant.
Was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to undo the plastic drain **** at the bottom of the rad. Honda must be using decent plastics, because others just crumble, hence people playing it safe and undoing the lower rad hose.
Bleeding didn't present me any problems either after following the steps from the manual.
Expansion tank is a bit of a bastid to see, need a powerful torch.

Good idea to also change the gearbox oil if there is no evidence it has ever been done.
I've never done a coolant change before, but understand the process. Wondering that if you do it on jack stands with the front sticking up, when filling the reservoir/bleeding the system do you drop the car down to make it level or does it not matter?

Did the gearbox oil myself the previous year, but again i might have done it incorrectly as car was on stands at the front so was at a bit of an angle.
 

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My drive is not 100% level, but I made sure the car was reasonably level when on stands by sticking pieces of wood under the jack stands. A level is useful, you want the sills to show the bubble in the middle, same as the cyl head cover.
Otherwise you can't trust the gearbox level plug, can you?

I don't remember any issues with bleeding, had it running for half an hour though for fan to come up twice. Remember to have cabin heating full on during the process, so the heater matrix has no bubbles either. It was funny to see how long it would take an 11-year old car bring on the fan idling during a hot day. Honda reliability baby!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
My drive is not 100% level, but I made sure the car was reasonably level when on stands by sticking pieces of wood under the jack stands. A level is useful, you want the sills to show the bubble in the middle, same as the cyl head cover.
Otherwise you can't trust the gearbox level plug, can you?

I don't remember any issues with bleeding, had it running for half an hour though for fan to come up twice. Remember to have cabin heating full on during the process, so the heater matrix has no bubbles either. It was funny to see how long it would take an 11-year old car bring on the fan idling during a hot day. Honda reliability baby!
so you jack up from all 4 corners to make it level?

Have the fans on full and temp on highest. Do the other controls like air direction matter. Manual says to leave the cap on loosely, so just have it cover radiator but not tighten?
 

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Yep.
On my driveway, I had to jack up all 4 corners in order to have the car level and still fit underneath to deal with the [email protected] undertray.
Rad cap was loose, so that the system was not pressurised during the process.
Made sure the rad was topped up and expansion tank between max and min. No gotchas, so I don't think this engine has hidden crevices for bubbles to hide.

Other temp controls don't matter as far as I know. Aircon was off during the coolant bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yep.
On my driveway, I had to jack up all 4 corners in order to have the car level and still fit underneath to deal with the [email protected] undertray.
Rad cap was loose, so that the system was not pressurised during the process.
Made sure the rad was topped up and expansion tank between max and min. No gotchas, so I don't think this engine has hidden crevices for bubbles to hide.

Other temp controls don't matter as far as I know. Aircon was off during the coolant bleeding.
fair enough, im on driveway too but only have 2 axle stands so can't get it on all 4s. So I suppose I need to jack it up from the front, drain it, close the plug, drop it down on the ground then bleed it before checking for leaks.

Also does the entire undertray need to come off for this job? Manual seems to say so
 

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I'd take it off yes, would be a pain to try any of this with the tray still hanging.
On the plus side you'll verify that all tray bolts/bits are intact, and replace/grease anything that needs doing before putting it back.
Or consider leaving it off like some do. I chose to put it back, these two jobs don't happen all that often anyway.

Raising the rear is far easier, just jack up the towing ring and up it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd take it off yes, would be a pain to try any of this with the tray still hanging.
On the plus side you'll verify that all tray bolts/bits are intact, and replace/grease anything that needs doing before putting it back.
Or consider leaving it off like some do. I chose to put it back, these two jobs don't happen all that often anyway.

Raising the rear is far easier, just jack up the towing ring and up it goes.
ok cheers, hopefully i don't make a mess of this job. Will just buy some stands second hand I dont trust that tow ring on a 2009 champ white!
 

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I used the tow ring is for lifting the back, the stands for keeping it there.
The tow ring is plenty strong for lifting the back, that is its job.
I always leave the jack in place anyway (extra precaution just in case!)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
so commencing work today, but got the job of removing the undertray. Doesn't seem easy as I thought. Got the front end jacked up, with the axles placed under the wishbone grooves. However doubt this will give clearance for the tray to come out.

Any suggestions?
 
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