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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, serial lurker in this forum, first of you guys are great for the wealth of knowledge and great advice given to others, please move to the right place.

So here goes I'm not the only one to describe this issue but I haven't found a solution.

My car is 07 fn2 40k miles. Well serviced as in: stock parts all from this year include rebuilt 3rd gear+clutch, new plugs, new gen air filter, Fuchs Titan 5w40 oil, the car is as intended by Honda except a quaife lsd (what a difference)

The problem I have is when the car is upto temp(not the cold kangarooing everyone seems to have) it has a hesitation from say 5% to 25% throttle when pressed fast it bogs down. I have read similar posts described a bit better than I can. I'm sure it's the same issue these cars suffer from. I have just changed lamba primary as this affects the a/f mix. Definitely feels like the car is wrong mix or timing is off,

It runs perfect at full vtec and also fine when just following the flow of traffic. This mid throttle lag hesitation thing is driving me bonkers.

Any ideas would be great I can't keep on throwing money on unnecessary parts I'm not tight but it's costing a fortune. A mechanic would say it's fine but I know it's just not right, i don't have hondata to log it as its a stock lump stock air box. 32ish mpg It prefers shell vpower. A old school mechanic said it could be a crank sensor, but I don't understand how it could be this. At 40k it can't be a stretched timing chain. This week I've considered going back to 5w30 oil but have been told oil would not do this. There is no engine light, the Valve clearance have not been done but they are quiet even from cold.

Please try your best guys I can't sell the car I saved a long long time for this car and couldn't take the hit selling it. I normally keep cars 7years plus. Thanks in advance Alex
 

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When was the air filter last changed?
 

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Have you done service yourself or was it done by garage, or previous owner? Did you check air filter and pugs personally? I mean one of my previous cars had full service history with plugs marked up as changed and when i check them 4000 miles after this "service" there were looking like someone was using them for welding...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do it myself, as I know it's done correctly, so I never put cheap parts on as I save tons in labour, I only ever use genuine parts and except a quaife helical diff. The car is standard,

It is a very mild fault but I'd happily pay to get rid of it. The are some old threads on here with the exact same issue but never a solution and I'm too new to send a pm to find if they ever cured it. I have the use of a high end snap on machine ob2 but don't want to take the peas by testing every sensor, as the guy is a funny old fart.
 

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I do it myself, as I know it's done correctly,
Good! Fully agreed with that.

Would be good to check if car has stock ECU map... you know - previous owner migh have some modifications fitted and car mapped to them, then strip the mods and didn't return ECU to stock? Not sure if it's possible or how to check that without flashpro but if service was done properly there are not many things left... i don't think it's mechanical - must be electric / electronic fault. More likely electronic, as electrical failure wouldn't demonstrate just in one rev range.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi I really appreciate the help, I'm sure I know the history of the car it was a female employees of Honda, then a garage kept toy for a jag owner, definitely not the hondata type of people.

I'm thinking I may need either the tps (I know it's dbw but don't what tps is on this system) tested and also throttle body and also the pedal box.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also a could it be a timing issue I.e crank sensor or either cam sensors, is there a easy way to test them, with a volt meter. Chain would not be stretched I've only heard of this in racing scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just cleaned my Pcv valve and it seemed to have made a difference. The is a new one in the post. So fingers crossed for a bigger improvement
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I used carb cleaner. My understanding is it's just a spring and ball bearing so I'm guessing even petrol would be ok, In the u.s it's a 3year service item so should be replaced but worth a clean just to see if there is an improvement (don't be to shocked if you find oil in there it's what it's designed to do)
 

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Got a pcv valve kit coming. Mine's shot.
 

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Just over 40 quid. Been looking at valves on their own from the US but thought I'd replace the lot. Be worthwhile at the end of the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've got one coming from the u.s but I'm a stickler for genuine so I'll go to cox next month, I trimmed half inch of the pipe to give it a fresh seal. Do me or us a favour and come back with your thoughts if it improves the response of your engine.
 

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Will do. ;)
 

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Very fast delivery, it arrived today. That's lunchtime sorted :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
10mm 1/4 socket to move ac pipe out the way. Pair long nose pliers for clamps and 17mm deep socket preferably using 1/2inch handle, easily done by anyone on here
 

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So far so good. I think changing a few things like this, plugs etc refreshes the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
After a few good drives. The Pcv valve has done the trick, I'd like to stress this won't cure a major problem,if you have a niggle that it's just not right and you have a tiny dip or lag or flat spot. It could be this valve. I searched everywhere to find an answer but didn't find one, my common sense and understanding says a Pcv can't affect performance like this but it does.Hope this helps and Im just sharing my experience. Thank you mrfrog and flashy
 
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