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The petrol Type S and Type R both have sports suspension which can only be obtained from Euro Car Parts and Honda directly.
Not true, got new Sachs shocks from sachs clutch kits|sachsuk|boge coil springs|german car parts Midland Car Spares, they are authorised Sachs distributors.
Got them cheaper from them than I would from ECP with my staff discount.

If you go to Honda you will be paying over £100 more each side just for a nice Honda label.
 

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Lol 117k and front strut rebuild here...

The underside of my car isn't "that" bad. It's all solid, just surface rust. I'll likely be cleaning out and treating the wheel arches next year and will see if there's any significant rust there.



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Car adverts are hilarious, they assume buyers are blind and stupid. Or the sellers are.

So many cliches like "first to see will buy" and "lady owner". I've seen so many blatantly badly repaired crashed cars with "excellent condition" on the advert as well as other things.

As much I want a VW Golf or something more refined, I think I'll stick with my 1.8 and just keep it going for as long as possible as any used car purchase is a roll of the dice.
 

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It looks like your Civic will be one to suffer from the back wheel collapsing inwards, as the rear axle is rusting out.

A few members on here have had it happen. I've seen a few on eBay trying to downplay the issue and make out it's something simple like strut failure.

The 2008 Hyundai Tucson has the same issue. Rear subframe rots out and one of the back wheels collapse.


Not true, got new Sachs shocks from sachs clutch kits|sachsuk|boge coil springs|german car parts Midland Car Spares, they are authorised Sachs distributors.
Got them cheaper from them than I would from ECP with my staff discount.

If you go to Honda you will be paying over £100 more each side just for a nice Honda label.
Well, my car was stripped down and I had already needed the struts to complete the job, and ECP was same day.

Also the original Honda struts all have Sachs written on them. It's them who make them.
 

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It looks like your Civic will be one to suffer from the back wheel collapsing inwards, as the rear axle is rusting out.

A few members on here have had it happen. I've seen a few on eBay trying to downplay the issue and make out it's something simple like strut failure.
That is 100% surface rust, I spent an afternoon stabbing and hitting various points with a stout screwdriver. It's all solid and isn't going to be collapsing inwards any time soon.

I've treated the top side of it too and it's coated in rust converter and wax, if I really cared about the car I'd probably have spent ages sanding it down to the metal then zinc painted it but what I've done is sufficient and more than 75%+ of owners will ever do to theirs. It'll hold for the useful life of the vehicle anyway.



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Well, my car was stripped down and I had already needed the struts to complete the job, and ECP was same day.

Also the original Honda struts all have Sachs written on them. It's them who make them.
Fair enough if you need same day.

I know Sachs make the originals, that's why I bought them. Just making the point that the addition of an extra label with Honda on it costs an additional £100 a side, even more for the rear shocks, an extra £200!
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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T
That is 100% surface rust, I spent an afternoon stabbing and hitting various points with a stout screwdriver. It's all solid and isn't going to be collapsing inwards any time soon.

I've treated the top side of it too and it's coated in rust converter and wax, if I really cared about the car I'd probably have spent ages sanding it down to the metal then zinc painted it but what I've done is sufficient and more than 75%+ of owners will ever do to theirs. It'll hold for the useful life of the vehicle anyway.



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hats what I need to do to mine and never got the chance, very annoying, I’m hoping to get it done in beginning of November, what did you use?
 

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hats what I need to do to mine and never got the chance, very annoying, I’m hoping to get it done in beginning of November, what did you use?
Hammerlite Kurust which I painted on then I sprayed with Dinitrol clear war aerosol.

Were I doing it again I'd use Jenolite rust converter as an aerosol then some sort of decent quality Zinc galvanising paint, it only comes in battleship grey but a good quality one will be extremely heavy as there's loads of metal in it. After that I might still spray wax over the top.

Key part of rust treatment is to scrape/sand off as much as possible although some left over is ok as that's what the rust converter is for. I'd clean it with brake cleaner instead of water since it's cheap and obviously dries easily.

I still need to get some of the top bits of the torsion beam but I plan to do that next year when I check/treat all 4 inner wheel arches.

It's all a piece of string anyway, but anything is better than nothing but I feel talk of major rust on the 8th gen is exaggerated as it's a fairly well designed car and the majority are just treated like shopping carts. The same era Ford Foci and VW Golfs both rust far more and on their panels too which is arguably far more expensive.

Even a rusty rear beam isn't the end of the line as it's just sourcing a new one for a few hundred pounds, then it's the effort of refitting hubs, brakes, sensors, etc to it. If one was to do that it would be silly not to properly treat it. Once on the car I'd imagine it'll last another 20+ years which is more than most 8th gens remaining life.

If one is rust paranoid then things like this would be more of an issue. As they could eventually rot out and need some fairly major welding.

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Bajanboy

Own an FN2 and expect to be putting fuel in on a regular basis. 300 miles pr tank is the norm. Road tax is £340/12 months. Decent tyres are £70-120 per corner. Brakes can be prone to sticking or seizing particularly in winter, so factor in a good brake service once or twice a year. Otherwise, general maintenance should cover everything else.
 

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Also just to chime in with some realistic driving MPG around town, I've been pottering to the shops and to my other house most days this week in town. And I'm returning 30MPG. That's skipping gears and keeping it at low RPMs. I have a R18, which is setup for maximum MPG. I think I hit the dual carriageway once, and that was for around two miles. The rest of my journeys are in 30 & 40mph zones.

I drive the R18's in the top gears if I'm in a 30mph limit, so first into third into fifth. And the bottom gears if I'm in a 40+ and slip into sixth around 40mph.

The quicker you gain speed, the more wear on the engine and drive train and less MPG.
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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On the flip side to all the comments above
I slam it in to 1st hit vtec
Slam it into 2nd hit vtec
Slam it in to 3rd hit vtec
Slam it in to 4th hit vtec then slow down and repeat and drive like that everywhere I go because it’s meant to be driven like that, if you want a high mpg return then get a standard civic
22-24mpg, £300 odd tax, that’s your return for having fun in a car that is meant for fun and meant to be driven hard, ******** to the rest of the above🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

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But the problem is traffic, a few times I have gone for a blast. the local traffic is so bad I couldn't hit 40, went to a "quiet" place, full of cyclist and people that found out about the countryside during lockdown, again not above 40, might have to start road rallying again ......
 

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But the problem is traffic, a few times I have gone for a blast. the local traffic is so bad I couldn't hit 40, went to a "quiet" place, full of cyclist and people that found out about the countryside during lockdown, again not above 40, might have to start road rallying again ......
I will keep quite with my response because I always stick to the speed limit👍
 
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