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Just did the FN2 valves today.
I took my time, didn't rush anything.
If I were to do it again, it would still have taken a couple of hours, so I find the dealer 1hr estimate is very suspect.
At 50K miles, they were all within spec - none was too tight, most were half-way or towards the high end. I left those alone, they're not noisy anyway.
Plugs looked tired. colour was OK, gaps 1mm, but they are better off in the bin.
Tips:
1. the two rear bolts you cannot see (exh side), are still there lol
2. Engine turns easily with 19mm socket onto crank bolt when spark plugs are off. Front nearside wheel needs to be off and two plastic clips taken off to allow plastic cover to bend enough to expose the bolt.
3. Honda tool will pay for itself, don't be a cheapskate like me and try to improvise. clearance is limited and the exhaust side is even worse. Just get the tool ffs.
4. various bits and bobs will need to be relocated to make space for the valve cover to come off. brake and clutch fluid reservoirs too. take pictures as you dismantle, so you don't end up with leftover bits.
5. good quality angled feeler gauges are a must. I found the imperial ones worked best on this metric car. I used .008, 9, 10, 11, 12. always have one size too thick to check if the valve is too loose.
6. Hondabond and new rubber gasket need to be next to you. Not sure about other rubbery bits, mine were fine so I reused the spark plug o-ring thigies.
7. get a 1/4" torque wrench for low torque values, if you already haven't got one. all these 10mm bolts need 8-12NM. A wrench that also does wheel bolts won't do.
8. stick a piece of paper in the 10mm socket before fitting the bolts for the cowl. You don't want to drop them into the abyss (or engine undercover from hell)
 

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I didn't, but if I had to change clearances to exh valves I'm sure I'd miss it.
I improvised with a spanner, a socket and a screwdriver. Had some valve tools off fleabay, but those would not have helped with the heavily recessed design of the K20.
Honda tool looks like a screwdriver with a handle on the side. That would work.
 

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Not sure how this takes you guys 2 hours




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Mine have been done just before purchase but I'm going to check them again when I change the cam cover gasket.

I remember making a tool before, not sure where it's gone. How deep is the exhaust valves?
 

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Quite deep then by looks of it.. the one I made wasn't as long come to think of it, used a old deep socket and welder a spanner to it and then bored out the centre to allow a screwdriver down.
 

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Quite deep then by looks of it.. the one I made wasn't as long come to think of it, used a old deep socket and welder a spanner to it and then bored out the centre to allow a screwdriver down.
How did you torque the lock nut?


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Managed it before by bending the feeler gauge into some tight angles and using a crow foot spanner. Stood on a box to the side of the car for extra reach, no chance from the front.

This is the tool other people are on about I think and I wouldn't try it again without it for the benefit of my sanity:

 

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I've got the valve adjustment tool, and a new cam cover gasket so will be doing mine soon. What are the specs for the valve adjustment? I've read between 9-11 thou intake and 11-13 exhaust, just making sure this is the correct values?
 

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I've got the valve adjustment tool, and a new cam cover gasket so will be doing mine soon. What are the specs for the valve adjustment? I've read between 9-11 thou intake and 11-13 exhaust, just making sure this is the correct values?
This is information I use 👍
Screenshot_20210113_232701_com.android.chrome.jpg
 

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Valve Clearance
Intake:0.21−0.25 mm (0.008−0.010 in.)
Exhaust:0.25−0.29 mm (0.010−0.011 in.)
 
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