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2009 FN2 Type R
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if you didn't live in the frozen North you could drive to mine and I'd do it for you.
it really is an easy job if you have the tool to get the locking ring off/on.
i've done both of ours this year
Got mine to go on too from Tegiwa, did you get a specific tool @Wilmo or make one ?
 

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The Teg one is genuine Honda.
You know it will fit and there have been reports on here of issues using cheap alternatives.
Just about to place order and notice Tegiwa states it fits FN2 type R and FN2 type S. I just have a common or garden 1.8L manual petrol EX (which type is that? 馃ゴ ), is this going to be the same component?
 

i-Vtec
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@Sphere I bought mine from Tegwia, marked FN2, and I only have the 1.8 too. Its the part number that counts. Heres the one I bought.

 

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Just about to place order and notice Tegiwa states it fits FN2 type R and FN2 type S. I just have a common or garden 1.8L manual petrol EX (which type is that? 馃ゴ ), is this going to be the same component?
like @Das says it fits all the petrol ones, I checked with them first before I got a second one for the 1.8.
 

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Got mine to go on too from Tegiwa, did you get a specific tool @Wilmo or make one ?
I had a mate's mate make a tool up for me using an old bearing puller and a large socket welded on.
The Honda manual says that the locking ring needs to be done up to 93Nm!!!
You will probably find like the guy in the video, @Das and me that the new ring won't do up and so have to use the old one.

.....and my next job is valve clearances but not a DIY one for me.
 

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The manual says to depressurize the fuel system first by removing fuse #2 from the under fascia fuse box and idling til it dies, but I haven't seen any mention of that on here or on the various youtube vids. Fwiw I got the fuel in the tank so low the fuel warning light has been on for 30 miles. Reckon I should bother depressurizing?

I also don't have a jerry can for the clean fuel to rinse the old tea-bag/strainer. Can I just transfer fuel into an empty water bottle at the pump or is storing fuel in plastic a bad idea? Also concerned fuel will spray everywhere if I try and put the nozzle into a bottle :unsure:
 

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just disconnect the fuel pipe on the top of the filter that faces front and start the car, it will soon stall as the fuel in the line runs out.
then disconnect the battery and do the rest of the job.

that tea bag won't be very dirty, I just dried it off with kitchen paper, it's there to catch the big stuff to protect the pump.everything else just goes through it to the main filter
 

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The guide says unplug the 'handbrake warning light wiring plug' when you undo the two handbrake bolts to move it out the way. Presumably it's one of these two candidates I've circled:
319451


Can anyone identify what they both are?
 

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just disconnect the fuel pipe on the top of the filter that faces front and start the car, it will soon stall as the fuel in the line runs out.
So disconnect the fuel pipe when it's still under pressure? Car's been sitting for 24h but should I still expect some sprays?
 

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So disconnect the fuel pipe when it's still under pressure? Car's been sitting for 24h but should I still expect some sprays?
sorry meant to add that you need to disconnect the block connector on top of the fuel filter BEFORE you start the engine, you need to do this to get the access panel out of the way
after that you'll get a bit of dribble but nothing some kitchen roll won't sort.

the handbrake switch is the one attached to the lever.
I think the other thing is the yaw sensor, part of the VSA system.
 

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Got it done finally. Had to stop for a couple of days awaiting delivery of the tool to remove the locking nut. Fwiw it's called a 'tank wrench' and I got mine from amazon for 拢8.99.

Of course the video was invaluable.

Not my favourite job. I hope inhaling petrol fumes isn't bad for your health :ROFLMAO:
Loads of cables in the way and as usual don't have much room to work in.

Couple of side notes. Be careful not to lose the white clip which fixes the high pressure hose in position on the sender unit. When you disconnect the old unit the white clip will probably stay with the unit as opposed to the hose. It's also white plastic so looks like it comes with the unit. But the new unit doesn't come with a new clip. It's small and flimsy and you'll probably be smelling of petrol and somewhat tilted at this point, but don't lose this clip or you have no way of reattaching the high pressure hose to the new unit!

At the end the Aussie in the video attaches the locking nut washer to the top of the sender unit before inserting into the tank and pushing it down. I couldn't get this method to work as the new washer ring wants to stay outside the tank. The only technique I could get to work was putting the washer ring around the tank entrance then squeezing the sender unit down snug through the hole.

After reading reports on here, I was expecting the new plastic locking nut not to fit and to have to reuse the old one. But for whatever reason the new nut fit fine. Still an awkward job reinstalling as it's spring-loaded and with the rubber washer it's very tight. Getting the nut to bite is just a bit tricky as you haven't got much room.

Still beats dropping 拢174 for official servicing 馃槄

Edit: forgot to mention, someone said the torque spec for the locking nut is 93Nm(!?) I gave up before this value as I couldn't really tighten it any more using the tank wrench with a torque wrench connected in the space provided. Pretty sure it wasn't 93Nm when I unscrewed the old nut. Anyway hope this is fine^^
 
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