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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

I want to get my fn2 track ready for the ring and maybe some local track days this summer. The car currently has a tegiwa mani, miltek exhaust, tegiwa intake and a driven scoop, I'm picking up a flashpro this weekend hopefully then I can get it mapped to get it running right, I don't really want to put much more money into power mods as things start getting very expensive for minimal gains.

Thankfully the car already has a wavetrac lsd but I doubt it has the FRS as I think it previously had coilers. It also has stoptech discs all round and cosworth pads on the rear but standard pads on the front. So anyway, heres my questions:

Cosworth street master or ds2500 for the front?
OR
Bigger calliper for the front? Any OEM callipers from other cars that fit? nothing crazy expensive.

FRS or coilovers? FRS is £525 at grinspeed with eichbach springs, I don't even know where to start looking with coilovers.

Lastly, bucket seats! can anyone recommend a set of comfy seats, again priced pretty low, I'm 6'4" too.

Any advice guys?
Cheers.
 

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Personally, if you drive the car on road, I would avoid bucket seats and harnesses. It is a proper pain . I hated using my track car on the road after fitting buckets. Not going to do the same mistake with type r.


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Personally, if you drive the car on road, I would avoid bucket seats and harnesses. It is a proper pain . I hated using my track car on the road after fitting buckets. Not going to do the same mistake with type r.


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Yep, you soon realise how much you move around in a road car, pulling up to junctions for example, most of us will lean forward to look along the road...say bye bye to that when your strapped in with a 5 point harness

If its a Type R then those seats should be fine for a trip to the ring and other circuits

If you choose the Cosworth stuff then let us know how they are, I'm looking at sorting out discs. fluids and pads all round in 1 go and looking for options other than EBC or ferodo, I'm staying away from EBC pads, have had them before and they were worst pads i've ever put in a car, have had the Ferodo's on a car before and they were "ok" so wouldn't mind a quick review of the cossie pads
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To be fair the standard seats are the nicest I've ever sat in, but I was thinking more along the lines of weight saving, I'll leave them to last and see what happens.

Im trying to find a affordable big brake kit, waiting for something second hand, I may just get the cossie pads for the front and leave the callipers until I've done suspension work.
 

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250bhp.... finally :)
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You're pretty much sorted mate.

I'd get a decent set of tyres, steel braided lines (likely you have them already) and a good set of pads.
BBK is better for the track as they won't fade as quick @SilverCider has tracked with his OEM calipers and they did the job.

OEM coilovers are pretty stiff so are good for starting with, I find progressive spring like the eibachs may not be great for the track. Day to day they're nice but when I go thrash the car they don't load up smoothly and cause you to constantly adjust your steering slightly when the LSD is working away. It's only minor but a set of adjustable coilovers or the standard springs would be better for track.

Drop me a PM mate when you're going to a local track as I'm trying to assemble a small pit crew myself xD
 

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You're pretty much sorted mate.

I'd get a decent set of tyres, steel braided lines (likely you have them already) and a good set of pads.
BBK is better for the track as they won't fade as quick @SilverCider has tracked with his OEM calipers and they did the job.

OEM coilovers are pretty stiff so are good for starting with, I find progressive spring like the eibachs may not be great for the track. Day to day they're nice but when I go thrash the car they don't load up smoothly and cause you to constantly adjust your steering slightly when the LSD is working away. It's only minor but a set of adjustable coilovers or the standard springs would be better for track.

Drop me a PM mate when you're going to a local track as I'm trying to assemble a small pit crew myself xD
Good pads and fluid, and at least oem grade discs work fine for your first couple of track days (with Goodyear AS3). Once you start getting brave and stamping on them harder for longer they begin to be the weak point. Also, If you have more grip your brakes will have to work harder of course. The same goes for weight and power.

I had eibach springs on original dampers on my first track day and the springs felt far too soft for the short wheel travel we have. Adjustable coilovers are better, although could be a negative if you set them up wrong. All part of the learning I suppose.

Fast road setup is a must.
 

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When it comes to tyres I would get nankang ns2r in soft or federal 595rsr. Both are excellent track day tyres and cost half to r888


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Discussion Starter #8
You're pretty much sorted mate.

I'd get a decent set of tyres, steel braided lines (likely you have them already) and a good set of pads.
BBK is better for the track as they won't fade as quick @SilverCider has tracked with his OEM calipers and they did the job.

OEM coilovers are pretty stiff so are good for starting with, I find progressive spring like the eibachs may not be great for the track. Day to day they're nice but when I go thrash the car they don't load up smoothly and cause you to constantly adjust your steering slightly when the LSD is working away. It's only minor but a set of adjustable coilovers or the standard springs would be better for track.

Drop me a PM mate when you're going to a local track as I'm trying to assemble a small pit crew myself xD
Ive already got fairly decent street tyres (pilot super sports) how do road legal track tyres hold up on the road? My main concern is wet weather since we have it 95% of the time!

Yeh I already have braided lines, do the bbk callipers work with fn2 pads? that way I could upgrade pads now then buy just callipers in the future as I already have stoptech discs.

I'll have to get some prices on coilovers then, although frsu without springs seems more financially appealing haha.

By selling some other toys I've just raised some money to splash on the car, its roughly enough to buy a rotrex sport kit, so I have that playing on my mind as well now! :grin2:

New front pads, frsu and a charger seem the plan anyway, then track tyres when the weather is better.
 

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250bhp.... finally :)
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The tyres are great (AD08R), not fantastic in the wet but more than do the job.
The pads won't fit as they're caliper specific with the possible exception of Spoon's.

In my honest opinion I wouldn't go rotrex myself especially if thinking of tracking the car. If you do I'd advise getting one with the intercooler as I've heard of overheating issues in less than one lap of the ring!

If you do splash the money on a charger I'd be getting a CT one for that low down torque, would be great day-to-day. For me N/A is the way, especially for the track, costs a fair bit either way ;)
 

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Having too much low down torque might not be the best thing on a fwd car on track. Especially if pushing 3-400hp.


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250bhp.... finally :)
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Depends if you have bad throttle control and if boost by gear is available.

That's mainly why I prefer N/A, yes it makes much less power low down but a decent driver won't be flooring it in 5th at 2k rpm unless he's lazy *cough* ;)
Nothing like getting the car on the limit round a corner then full throttle on the exit without shredding tyres lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
But doesn't rotrex give you more n/a feel compared to ct?


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Thats what I've heard too, as far as I'm aware charging the k20 doesn't really take away from the vtec essence since the boost progressively builds up until the redline, where as a turbo would give full boost and lots of torque very low down. £3k for a 300-320 hp car seems very appealing to me, Ive not heard of overheating issues with the sport kit though, is that the charger overheating or the engine?
 

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Thats what I've heard too, as far as I'm aware charging the k20 doesn't really take away from the vtec essence since the boost progressively builds up until the redline, where as a turbo would give full boost and lots of torque very low down. £3k for a 300-320 hp car seems very appealing to me, Ive not heard of overheating issues with the sport kit though, is that the charger overheating or the engine?


Even if there are overheating issues with the intercooled kit, I'm sure a good oil cooler and race rad would fix.


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250bhp.... finally :)
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The rotrex keeps the characteristics of N/A.

The overheating I've heard of were the non-intercooled version and only on the track.
 

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Clutch pedal guru
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Leave the engine alone!!! A well set up chassis with decent track tyres and awesome brakes is worth way more than 100bhp more in power.

My friends old DC2 made a mockery of a guy trying to chase him in an Aldi RS4. He ended up spinning off the track. My friend in the DC2 just carried on lapping away. He had full track geo setup by grinspeed, toyo 888s, stripped out, standard brakes, braided hoses, DS2500 pads, high temp fluid, BC coilovers. STANDARD ENGINE.
 

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Leave the engine alone!!! A well set up chassis with decent track tyres and awesome brakes is worth way more than 100bhp more in power.

My friends old DC2 made a mockery of a guy trying to chase him in an Aldi RS4. He ended up spinning off the track. My friend in the DC2 just carried on lapping away. He had full track geo setup by grinspeed, toyo 888s, stripped out, standard brakes, braided hoses, DS2500 pads, high temp fluid, BC coilovers. STANDARD ENGINE.
I can fully believe it. driver training is also worth far more than any mod and last far longer. For me, being fast in the corners is more desirable than straight line speed, so engine bits will always be last thing to change.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Leave the engine alone!!! A well set up chassis with decent track tyres and awesome brakes is worth way more than 100bhp more in power.

My friends old DC2 made a mockery of a guy trying to chase him in an Aldi RS4. He ended up spinning off the track. My friend in the DC2 just carried on lapping away. He had full track geo setup by grinspeed, toyo 888s, stripped out, standard brakes, braided hoses, DS2500 pads, high temp fluid, BC coilovers. STANDARD ENGINE.
The DC2 is a very different car to an fn2 though.

If it was a dedicated track car then I wouldn't be looking at a charger, I only mentioned the charger in a later reply, the supercharger isn't part of getting the car track ready, just for a bit more poke on the roads.

Im going to order some new front pads to match the rears and I'm going to go for a frsu on standard springs I think, semi slicks will be purchased in a few months when the weather is a little dryer.
 

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The DC2 is a very different car to an fn2 though.

If it was a dedicated track car then I wouldn't be looking at a charger, I only mentioned the charger in a later reply, the supercharger isn't part of getting the car track ready, just for a bit more poke on the roads.

Im going to order some new front pads to match the rears and I'm going to go for a frsu on standard springs I think, semi slicks will be purchased in a few months when the weather is a little dryer.
The principle of attaining more performance isn't though.
 

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Yup dc2 are different . It is all great with low power cars on technical tracks like cadwell, and not so great on fast tracks. It can be really annoying when you catch a more powerful car in corners and they leave you for dead on straights without letting you pass.


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