2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
from what I am reading, I would check the pressure plate and bearing
Thanks. I'll take it to a mechanic with a new clutch kit just incase those parts are bad. Just the cost of opening the clutch is high I'd imagine.

Also, today I've just noticed something. I'm locked out of every single gear including reverse. All of them unlocked as soon as I touched the clutch. Clutch fluid is full...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,456 Posts
Hey, what exactly do you mean by 'locked out'. You mention it's OK when you 'touch the clutch' but the clutch should be fully depressed when you are trying to change gear anyway. Or are you talking about when you are stationary with the engine off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Hey, what exactly do you mean by 'locked out'. You mention it's OK when you 'touch the clutch' but the clutch should be fully depressed when you are trying to change gear anyway. Or are you talking about when you are stationary with the engine off?
Sorry I should be more clear. The gears go all the way in only when I fully depressed the clutch. This was with the engine off. By locked out, they go halfway into the gear and don't go any further unless I press the clutch.

The lockout does sometimes happen while I'm driving which is why I'm a bit worried. Started happening recently.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,456 Posts
With the engine off, it happens frequently that you cannot put the car in gear. It's probably nothing to worry about provided you can change gear OK when you are driving..
With the engine off, once you have depressed the clutch and got it to go into one gear, it will usually go into most (but possibly not all) of the other gears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
With the engine off, it happens frequently that you cannot put the car in gear. It's probably nothing to worry about provided you can change gear OK when you are driving..
With the engine off, once you have depressed the clutch and got it to go into one gear, it will usually go into most (but possibly not all) of the other gears.
Hmm okay, I'll see how it does. I'll change the clutch if the grinding gets worse... Don't want to ruin the gearbox...

Thanks for the help everyone!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,456 Posts
What about the possibility that the second gear baulk ring wearing? (Hope not)
It really needs diagnosing by someone who knows exactly what he is doing and can actually experience it for himself. The 'wisdom of the web' is likely to be guesses and it could prove expensive playing swap-it-out fault finding.
Worst case Scenario: Change Slave cylinder. Still bad so change Master, Still bad so change clutch. still bad so gearbox out (again) and fit new gearbox. Three bits changed at considerable cost that were not actually causing the fault.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,781 Posts
that sort of suggests its a spongy hydraulic system if another push of the pedal helps it out
not sure how the cables are on the civic but it could be cable setup
I know on seat's the cable can come away from the crimped end giving similar results
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Yeah this is annoying. I'll just shift slower and more carefully I guess. This just started recently when the weather became colder so I'll try some redline MTL gearbox fluid. If it works at all, it'll mean a wearing gearbox and that was a gearbox issue...
Mechanics were happy with the pedal feel and gearbox linkage (only because the shifter is fairly tight). So they've brought it down to the clutch plate or gearbox, but they need to open the clutch to know for sure; at that point, I'd might as well have parts ready...

It'll be a sad day if it was the hydraulics...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Another update: Today, the car started shuddering slightly when I go into first gear. Doesn't matter if I double clutch or just let off really slow. Revving more reduces the vibration but it's still there. Must be a bad clutch plate at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
It never happened before, but in the past few weeks, there has been a grinding sound when I try to switch into second (I press the clutch all the way down, still happens, though rarely, hurts my heart everytime). I let off the clutch and try again and it goes into second.

So I found some youtube vids where they tighten the clutch pedal so 2 or 3 threads of the screw on the clutch pedal show underneath some bar, but when I looked at it, my clutch was already tightened and had white lubricant in the area. I guess the last owner had the same problem and tightened it (bought the car around 18 months ago).

Anyway, what is this problem? I'm guessing the clutch assembly needs replacement. Do I just need a new clutch kit? Is that the problem? Could it be the CMC, slave cylinder or gearbox? The car accelerates well with the rpms but the clutch pedal is spongy (the clutch reservoir is filled to max).

Edit: Sometimes I get locked out of first gear too, but other gears shift like a dream.
I just installed a short shifter adapter (according to https://www.civinfo.com/threads/how-to-install-a-japspeed-shortshifter.78160/) on my Civic FK1 ‘08 (1339cm3 iDSI) and I started noticing that grinding.

Usually the grind is when switching from odd gears to even gears.
For instance, with the engine off, if I go to 1st then Neutral, all odd gears (1,3,5) will be smooth. It will grind when first going to an even gear from an odd one.
If I start from 2nd, go to Neutral, shifting to 2,4,6 will be smooth.

Is it the same in your case?
If so, maybe previous owner fitted such a short shifter.

During movement, shifting is way coarser than with engine off with this short shift adapter - requiring a lot of force.

|

I also had issues being locked out of 1st and 2nd gear - I could move the shifter on neutral to the left, but it wouldn’t go up (1st) or down (2nd). That used to happen when I’m going through a specific road/landscape when coming from work.

This started occurring after I changed clutch plates and transmission oil, but was before the short shift adapter was installed. Issue went away after about 2 months.

|

Another update: Today, the car started shuddering slightly when I go into first gear. Doesn't matter if I double clutch or just let off really slow. Revving more reduces the vibration but it's still there. Must be a bad clutch plate at this point.
2 months in with the new clutch plates, I started getting the shuddering (like feeling the gear teeths interlocking) you stated when launching the car. I sometimes don’t feel it when the car has warmed. Similarly, with more revs it’s less pronounced.

This started after I shifted badly at kinda high speeds (80-100). I probably damaged something.

Have you figured it out?

|

Also, My car sounds different when I’m in neutral clutch depressed vs in neutral clutch all the way in. I probably damaged the clutch. It’s a 3rd party, not oem one.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,456 Posts
Well stop poncing around with the gear stick with the engine off. It is common for gears to baulk without the gearbox/engine rotating. That's why they call a bit in the synchro mechanism a baulk ring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I just installed a short shifter adapter (according to https://www.civinfo.com/threads/how-to-install-a-japspeed-shortshifter.78160/) on my Civic FK1 ‘08 (1339cm3 iDSI) and I started noticing that grinding.

Usually the grind is when switching from odd gears to even gears.
For instance, with the engine off, if I go to 1st then Neutral, all odd gears (1,3,5) will be smooth. It will grind when first going to an even gear from an odd one.
If I start from 2nd, go to Neutral, shifting to 2,4,6 will be smooth.

Is it the same in your case?
If so, maybe previous owner fitted such a short shifter.

During movement, shifting is way coarser than with engine off with this short shift adapter - requiring a lot of force.

|

I also had issues being locked out of 1st and 2nd gear - I could move the shifter on neutral to the left, but it wouldn’t go up (1st) or down (2nd). That used to happen when I’m going through a specific road/landscape when coming from work.

This started occurring after I changed clutch plates and transmission oil, but was before the short shift adapter was installed. Issue went away after about 2 months.

|



2 months in with the new clutch plates, I started getting the shuddering (like feeling the gear teeths interlocking) you stated when launching the car. I sometimes don’t feel it when the car has warmed. Similarly, with more revs it’s less pronounced.

This started after I shifted badly at kinda high speeds (80-100). I probably damaged something.

Have you figured it out?

|

Also, My car sounds different when I’m in neutral clutch depressed vs in neutral clutch all the way in. I probably damaged the clutch. It’s a 3rd party, not oem one.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
I was looking for a short shifter for my FK2 but I couldn't find any sources so I gave up on that. I have the stock shifter. As for shifting, 3, 4, 5, 6 are all smooth for me, so going even-even or odd-odd gear will just be smooth for me. It's just first gear (locking out at the traffic lights, though much less frequently now) but the second gear lockout is more common for me.

As for the juddering, yeah, it only happens when I get off in first gear. For me, It's definitely the clutch plate. Might even be the flywheel too but I'm hoping it's not. Those cost over £300. For you, mis-shifting at that speed can do lots of damage. You could have scored the clutch plate/flywheel, damaged the engine mounts, or damaged the gearbox synchros and other soft bits in there... I don't know too much about the gearbox so I don't know for sure... Just hope it's not that.

My car sounds the same though, whether or not I depress the clutch. Personally I'd go with LUK aftermarket clutches. Just don't go with Transmech.
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top